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2002 Seadoo GTX RFI

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gtfireftr

gtfireftr

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Just picked up this PWC, first one I ever owned. I am an experienced mechanic, however have virtually zero experience with these. So this is a 2002 Seadoo GTX RFI, I had a hard time getting any history from the previous owner, the only thing he was able to pass on is it would not start about 5 years ago and has been sitting in his garage since. I ordered a new battery, and once I get that I think I should start with a compression check.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
 
Battery then compression test first is correct. However, check some basics. Oil,coolant ect ect.

If you get it running, run it for less than a minute as there will be no cooling for the exhaust, heat exchanger or the ceramic shaft seal.
 
It wouldn't hurt any to pull the plugs and spay some oil into the cylinders. Maybe you can turn it over by hand.
 
I wasn't paying enough attention. You have a 2 stroke, not a 4-tech.

Once you post your compression results you will get some great advice.

For now, drain your gas as it will kill the efficacy of the fuel system and can harm the engine due to a lean condition.

I will move this to the 2-stroke forum.
 
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Coastiejoe said:
I wasn't paying enough attention. You have a 2 stroke, not a 4-tech.

Once you post your compression results you will get some great advice.

For now, drain your gas as it will kill the efficacy of the fuel system and can harm the engine due to a lean condition.

I will move this to the 2-stroke forum.
Click to expand...
you mean fuel injectors right? lol!
 
Ok great..... I was even unsure what I had.... I have no manuals on this.
I do have one big concern..... I do not have the lanyard as of yet, is this needed to run it?
The previous owner says he does have it, but I have not seen it yet.
I know this is gonna sound a bit "stupid" but is this a 2 stroke with oil injection as well as fuel injection?

Thanks
 
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You will need the lanyard or get another one and then get it programmed for your MPEM (the brain).
 
yep a 2 stroke with oil injection as well as fuel injection. just in case you may not know, never premix a fuel injection engine as it can raise havoc with the injectors.
 
gtfireftr said:
Ok great..... I was even unsure what I had.... I have no manuals on this.

Thanks
Click to expand...

The Good news is, this forum has more information in the brains of its members than the manual. ;)
While the manual is the holy grail for working on them, there are a lot of seadoo passionate guys here that will help. If your an experienced wrench, it will be a good experience. The PWC's are very addicting......
 
^^agreed! We have some seriously awesome guys that know the RFIs well.

Once you get the battery you will want to find the starter solenoid and jump it with a pliers. That will turn the engine over so you can do a compression test.

You can also hit the starter button once w/o the key; that will turn the electronics on and you can check the hours on the meter.

Since the previous owner said it wouldnt start I would also stick a wire down the throttle body and turn the motor by hand feeling to make sure the rotary valve is rotating. You might be able to see down with a mirror too on that model.

If both tests are a success, then your next step is a key. If you are close to a good dealer you can buy a key and they should program it free. If they wont, send your MPEM to me and I can do it for you for $50+shipping. If you are farther than an hour away from the dealer Im prob a better option.

There are lots of things that could still be wrong like the fuel pump is bad, all sorts of things...but you need a key to figure it out.
 
I appreciate all the feedback..... I will have no issues doing the repairs (whatever may be needed) just knowing what to do is the issue.
68Ragtop...Nice GTO......and I appreciate the offer on the lanyard..... I may have to take you up on that....
Anyway, I am thinking of starting new out of the block... changing fuel pump, and of course all filters etc........ do you guys think this unnecessary? I should have the battery early next week, so hopefully this will begin my journey.... The fact that it is 2 stroke means there is no oil to change etc, however I am going to drain the fuel and oil tanks to start fresh, what do you guys figure is the easiest way to do this? Is there a way to run it on the trailer without causing damage to the internals (kind of like an outboard motor) ? I live in the Northeast so there is no great rush on this, but I am looking forward to trying it out.... Baby steps.....
 
Just found out that there is no lanyard/key available.... Nice..... any ideas where to start with this....??
 
Thanks griz....
I got my new battery yesterday, so hopefully I can take a look at how this is going to go down....
Thanks again for all the replies...
 
Ok, so I installed my new battery... .....that's the good news......
I got the instruments to fire up..... 173.2 hrs..... Not sure what that means in respect to engine life....
So I removed the seat mounting thingy with the bellows and coil pack.... removed the plugs...
found the solenoid and jumped across it with a screwdriver...... she turned over......
I got my old compression gauge, and started with the front cyl......initially I got about 120 pounds.... not sold on the gauge though
The major problem I see is the rear cyl has this nasty tanish color liquid coming out of the plug opening....So when I put my compression gauge on the rear cyl and jump across the solenoid it rotates a little bit and the seems to hydraulically lock up..... I am assuming this is not a good sign...... Not sure how to proceed..... I appreciate any guidance that you may provide.....
Thank You
 
with both plugs out, turn it over a few times to clear the cylinder of the fluid. use a rag to try to catch the fluid and to help prevent a mess. then try to compression test again with both plug wires on grounding post wide open throttle. keep us posted.
 
Does it matter that I disconnected the coil pack and removed it from the unit? It was just as easy to do that. So that nasty stuff in the cyl is not unusual? There seems to be a great deal of it in there.......I will need to crank it for a while to get that out, it appears that it keeps coming in from somewhere.... but if that is what is necessary I will do that.....
Thank You
 
most likely from them trying to start it before, what i would at this point, take like 2-3 table spoons of your synthetic 2 stroke oil and put in cylinders, turn it over slow by hand, then let it set for a few minutes, this will lube up cylinders, then put a rag over the top and crank it over with the plugs out of it, and then spin it over good, then recheck your compression, if no good, you lookin a tear down i guess ...
 
What do you mean by teardown? Top end, or total rebuild?
If its a total i may just do (1) either scrap the whole thing, or (2) buy a new engine.
What do you think makes more sense? Look for another one, or fix this one.
 
whats the compression ??? if you have a low hole ... then you gotta do something ... you would have to tear it down and assess the problem .... unless you are clark kent ... just kiddin ..
 
I hope that unknown liquid is 2-stroke oil, not rusty water!

Edit:

I think if motor is completely shot, for whatever reason, and the ski is in good cosmetic condition, it's probably worth a reman engine. Assuming you do the swap yourself, and there aren't too many other probs, a jet pump rebuild sometimes is necessary, which could even need an impeller refurb, will likely need fuel injectors (to avoid smoking new reman engine)

Special alignment fixtures are necessary to achieve driveline alignment with the new motor, odd/ends like fuel filters, possible fuel pump, your time, possibly new driveshaft, or PTO spline.

Target completion date, spring?
 
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Yea definitely looking for a spring finish. I am willing to do all the work. Kind of looking for a project actually. It is in good shape cosmetically, but not sure about driveline alignment etc.
Fuel pump etc should be not much of an issue for me.

Thanks
 
gtfireftr said:
Yea definitely looking for a spring finish. I am willing to do all the work. Kind of looking for a project actually. It is in good shape cosmetically, but not sure about driveline alignment etc.
Fuel pump etc should be not much of an issue for me.

Thanks
Click to expand...

Crankcase on those can fill with oil from the 2-stroke oil tank as it sits for a year or more, that's not unusual. Any amount of water lying in the crankcase spells rust for the motor rod bearing will be rusty and will seize within a short period of time, not to mention the cylinder is rusty.

For the other cylinder blowing 120psi, it should be north of 140psi. Dry motors sitting around several years probably don't have great piston ring sealing, may as well shoot some oil in there to avoid scuffing the piston and rings.

Edit: If you yank the motor, the driveline alignment should be adjusted using alignment fixture, during reinstall.
 
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So what I should do is just keep cranking the engine over until it is clear of any liquid coming out of the plug holes... then do a compression test with a known gauge......?
I know its putting the cart before the horse, but what is the alignment fixture that you are speaking of???

Thanks
 
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