2002 RXDI fuel sending units

jeffrider

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#1
Hey guys, I have a 2002 RXDI with 277 hours. Like most I have been battling whats the best fix when the fuel pump goes out. My original pump finally failed and couple years back. At the time, RPMs were fine, then they slowly deteriated, until it failed completely. I also had rectifier issues and battery issues as my wife likes to idle a lot. I now understand the issue the the over draw of amps on the pump at low idle and the charging issue that creates. So, my first pump replacement utilized the rubber hose fix and I got a whopping 5800 rpms at top speed with no battery issues. So, next I tried the latest pump fix that utilizes the metal tube that mounts directly into the sending unit, and now I have 6440 rpms at top speed, and no battery or rectifier issues, only disappointing RPMs at full throttle. I have also replace filter and feel fuel flow is not restricted. Does anyone know: "If I bite the bullet and buy a new SeeDoo OEM fuel sending unit (#275500641), will I solve my RPM issue and not create a new battery draining issue with the NEW version OEM of the sending unit pump mentioned above"?
 


mikidymac

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#2
The aftermarket pumps just don't work. The seadoo ones make more pressure and pull less power.

The other bad news is at 277 hours on a 951 you are getting close to being due for a full rebuild.
 

jeffrider

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#3
Thanks for the input! It's hard not to get suckered into buying these aftermarket pumps with all the cheers of success and claims of adequate pressures online. I'm probably going to buy a SeaDoo sending unit so I'll follow up with results once installed and tested.

Good news is... I had to rebuild my 951 at 211 hours after a rave valve came loose and descended on to the piston.

Thanks for your time!
 

jeffrider

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#4
Well I installed the OEM sending unit including the new fuel filter that comes with the unit. ($776. online). I did see an uptick in top end performance. From 6440 to 6580. It defiantly has a top end slow miss for sure, feels like it's struggling to rev more..., but can't, (if that makes any sense). More of a smooth miss than an abrupt cutting out type miss. I cleaned and inspected the RAV valves. They were not bad at all, but cleaned and reinstalled almost shinny and wiped ports. Both seem in fine shape, gaskets OK. Neither showed anything unusual also before cleaning. Plugs say the same, and were replaced two runs ago. So I've had a complete rebuild already now with only 66 hours so I'm hoping compression is fine. I'm thinking I'm down to injectors needing cleaning or replacing, or maybe air pressure issue. The RAVs are opening up I do believe just fine. All air hoses are either new or in great shape. It does make the double tap sound on the RAV valves when you turn the engine off. Looking for next step troubleshooting from any of you DI- experts ;DD.
 

mikidymac

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#5
Have you checked the rubber diaphragm on the water valve on the muffler?
 

jeffrider

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#8
I believe you may 2 for 2! Looks like the diaphragm IS shot. Even had a hole with a tiny splinter of wood sticking thru it, see hole in the photo. ;D. Bellows clamp was completely rusted away. Ordering a new clamp and bellows. When I went to remove the valve, its was not tight at all, when I unscrewed it the fitting stayed in the muffler. I noticed the tiny port hole in the fitting had a lot of carbon looking gunk in it so I took a pipe cleaner and wiped it all the way through the fitting. It was tight and clogged feeling then cleared out with several in and outs. I assume when I remount I need to use a thread sealer and tighten it to the fitting securely, right? I guessing between the holy bellows, the rusted clamp, and the loose fitting, pressure was escaping. Looking forward to rebuilding it and going for a test run. THANKS AGAIN for the guru advise!
 

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mikidymac

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#9
Pretty common on these actually. That clamp is the only thing on these skis that isn't stainless steel so I am not sure what seadoo was thinking on that one.

A little teflon tape on the threads should seal it up when going back on.
 

jeffrider

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#10
Finally received my bellows and spring! The $14 spring appears to now be stainless steel now. For $14 should be gold ;DDD. I have my valve back together & ready to install. I think... Q: Should the valve cover have a little tight play once spring is snapped back on? It's on good and tight but the cover can be moved a little with slight pressure countering the pressure of the spring inside.
 

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jhjesse

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#11
Yes you are good. The spring is a calibrated spring if it makes you feel any better. :)
 

jeffrider

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#12
Finally had time to test the 02' RXDI again after replacing the bellows on the water valve. Right after the repair I started it up dry, it reved up nicely. A clean sounding rev. Then I put it in the water and towed it behind a houseboat about 7 mph for an hour. Upon restarting I got the maintenance light flashing and it would only run 4750 rpms. Eventually I resent the maintenance light using the set and mode buttons and it fixed the low rev issue but has a terrible top mis now. Not like before when it seemed to be held back at full throttle but rather is was a bad "cutting out" type miss. Best it would run was barley 6600 rpm but with an terrible miss. Ran for 4 days with no change. So did the tow behind do something? I have towed it for years without incident... I haven't looked at the plugs yet, they had 4 hours on them maybe tops. Battery is good and charged.
 

mikidymac

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#13
I hope you blocked the cooling inlet hose when you were towing.
 

tkarvelis

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#14
As Mikidymac said, don't tow unless you block the cooling inlet. If you stay below 5mph, you might be OK.


Pull the plugs and see if there is any water or rust on them.
 

jeffrider

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#15
Will do. Like I said, I have towed it for years at low speeds behind a houseboat with no issues.., BUT this would make sense. Thanks guys!!
 

jeffrider

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#16
Not seeing any water spots or rust. Course I did ride for 4 days after the initial low rpm problem that cleared up to be a high speed mis at 6600 rpms. I notice cylinder 1 has a darker plug than cylinder 2... see photos.
 

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jeffrider

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#18
Yes, they pretty much have always looked OK. Change them out at the beginning of every season ever since I have owned it. What do you think I should look into from here, injectors? Last year when I had the aftermarket fuel pump rig with the rubber pipe and copper sleeve and clamps, something corroded the copper & clamps and created a dark dingy gas with some sediment in the bottom of the tank. Since I have replaced the entire pump and fuel filter with the OEM assembly, and cleaned the tank to spotless. I would think the filter would have caught any residue..., thoughts? Everything runs perfectly, idle, mid speed, starts on the fist couple hits every time, for 16 years ;DD Ahhhh!
 

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jeffrider

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#19
High speed mis: Had an experienced tech tell me there were lots of issues with the ground to injector connections. Going to try some Detoxit on the injector connectors as well as the MPEM connections... I'll keep ya posted ;D. Thanks for all the help dudes!
 

mikidymac

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#20
Deoxit is great stuff. It will act as a protectant on the connectors too. You could also send the injectors out for professional cleaning.
 

jeffrider

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#21
Hey is there are way to diagnose a main. code via the VCK without BUDS? It's now jumping to limp mode after about 2 - 3 seconds of starting and revving? Maint light come with 1 sec beeps... limps to mid speed around 4000 rpms... Maybe a clue to my top end miss? Also I haven't replace my rectifier ... I read that too could cause issues with injectors and put into limp mode.
 
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jeffrider

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#23
Thanks, gonna pull it, test it quickly to verify, then buy a new OEM for sure. I hope this is not a repeat of the new OEM fuel pump wearing out the rectifiers, then the battery syndrome all over again. I'd hoped the "OEMs that be" would have "rectified" that problem. (yuk yuk) ;D
 

jeffrider

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#24
Happy to report the new OEM rectifier did the trick. Running 6720 RPMs with no miss.

Yee-Haw! Thanks to all that helped me get it going again!
 

jeffrider

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#25
Any suggestions to what position the RAV valve adjustment knobs should be for best top end? I have read to unscrew them 3 turns out starting from all the way in making them flush with cap. I have mine one more turn outward (4 turns from 0) and the knobs sit up maybe 1/8" above cap.
 

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