2002 Gtx intake grate. 4tec

[Dman142]

I’ve searched many sites but can’t seem to get a concrete solution to finding an aftermarket intake grate for the 2002.

Seems as if the 2002 was a bit of an odd duck when it comes to parts, and not many people list them very well on their websites. Some sites say it works on 2002 and others dont

Ive recently went to a stainless wear ring and that cut the cavitation about in half. Anyone think an intake grate would solve the majority of the problem?
If someone could direct me to a site, or confirm a certain grate will work. I would very much appreciate it.

 

[Dman142]

After searching the part number, I am even more confused.
Oem part: 271001561

Found this on a site. Now the list does not include a 2002 Gtx 4tec, but the Oem part number shows it does fit. This is the problem I’ve been having. Makes no sense.

 

[Dman142]

I went ahead and grabbed a Solas intake grate and maybe helped the cavitation by 20%. I’d say with the steel wear ring and grate, cavitation went down a total of 60%. Can still feel it and Rpms get pinned at 7500 when cavitation happens.

Would getting a 2004 aluminum pump take care of the rest?

I did ride a new supercharged Yammy the other day and it did the same thing. Do they all do it?

 

[Dman142]

I read several forums that recommended an intake grate upgrade to help with cavitation. It has the middle plate to apparently direct more water to the prop?

So what’s the solution? Different pump?

 

[Dman142]

With 2 people on, it cavs out of the hole, and with 3, it’s terrible. No way this would pull any tubes or skiers. 04 pump?
Any suggestions?

 

[POPPS]

None of this makes sense,,,in many many days back,,,1997,,,with my 96 XP,,,,2 seater,,stock intake grate,,,,me driving, my 8 year old daughter behind me spotting,,(its a 2 seater)..,my 13 year old son on the tube,,,all of us taking turns ,,,my son driving,,,me on the tube,,,and no problems of any sort,,,is that pump seal in tact and there...
Have you modified anything?,,,did you change the prop?

 

[Dman142]

My 96 XP does perfectly fine with no cavitation issues. I have a post in the 2 stroke forum about my 96. There’s other problems with that one.

This is the 4tec forum, correct? I apologize but I’m not certain where the confusion comes into play. Perhaps there is some confusion which I have notnrecoginzed

I bought the 2002 GTX 4tec this summer. I’ve replaced the wear ring, first with a plastic, and now a stainless. Prop looked to be in perfect condition. As I mentioned, several places claim their aftermarket intake grate with the additional loader (if that’s what they call it) can help eliminate cavitation. It somewhat did that, but not well enough to make me happy.

If there is anymore information you need, I am happy to post anything in order to figure this out. It seems there are many 2002-3 4tec cavitation issues but there is so much information that contradicts others to make me not confident on how to solve.

 

[POPPS]

Apologies,i pulled our tubers with a 91 sp,,,(580) initially,,in 1993,,then the 800,,,in 1997,,my neighbor at his cottage got me up on play on plane with me on 2 skis...(no spotter,,illegal these days) on the 580,,,,so i have ZERO experience pulling anyone on any 4tec,,.you would just think,,,more hp,,,easier to pull?

 

[Dman142]

No problem.

It basically pins it up against the rev limiter at about 7500 and continues to stay there until some momentum is gained and it can pick up the water again and then accelerate. Short of the 04 aluminum pump, I wonder if a different pitch prop would work better. I don’t care about top end, just want the power out of the hole and turns.

 

[POPPS]

I would contact group K,,,they have done all kind of mods for decades ,,,they may be able to help you get the right pitch,,,for you are under proped for sure,,,or contact riva or solas or skattrak,,,

 

[Dman142]

I will do that. Thing that irks me is that the previous owner allegedly had $2k worth of maintenance done on it last fall. All wear parts allegedly replaced at the dealer or shop. I firmly believe they didn’t do any of the work they claimed. There’s no way any of the stuff was replaced. None of the inside of the hull parts looked new or even wiped off as they were all covered in the typical grime since it had never been touched by any hands. The damn battery cable was so loose that on the very first ride, the post rattled loose and started melting the battery terminal in half. Ski died on the water that day. Tow of shame on its maiden voyage.
I appreciate the help. Thank you.

 

[ski-d00]

The 02 4tec gtx did pretty well with the plastic pump since it was 155hp but the 03 185hp was terrible for cavitation. It was so bad they went to the aluminum pump in 04 for the same model which solved the problem.

It's possible you have a carbon seal problem causing the cavitation or your impeller is tweaked or your driveshaft is slightly bent which all will cause pretty bad cavitation.

 

[Dman142]

I grabbed the bellow that covers the carbon ring. There’s a ton of play inside the bellows leading me to believe the carbon ring is shot. I bet I can move it 1/4” in all directions. YouTube guy said there should be little to almost no slop in that bellow housing. Am I on the right track?

 

[tazzboo]

I have the exact same ski as you do. The 2002 GTX 4 tech it has a plastic pump but the center section I believe is Bronze. Its not the same as the plastic pump on the 2003 and newer. I can pull tubes and a person on a ski no problem. Now I was going to say Carbon ring all the way.

I also have a 2006 GTX wake. It had the full plastic pump. Now that would cavitate on me. So I switched out to the Aluminum one and it went away. Between the two skis. Both hitting around 7240 rpms. The 2002 will slowly walk away from the 2006 So I am reluctant to switch my 2002 ski to the same pump housing. Cause having that little bragging rights, when I ride is fun. My buddy has a 2003 and a 2004 all the same 155. The 2002 still walks slowly away from them also. I have worked on all of the these pumps over the years. So Again CARBON ring is your next step.

That is unless your veins inside the pump are messed up. Now that will also cause cavitation.

 

[Dman142]

I have now replaced the carbon seal but have yet to test it. The old carbon seal was not even round anymore. Take a look at the seal on the right. It’s ovaled out.

 

[tazzboo]

So curious if yours has the Plastic pump and Bronze center also? Yea that was your problem for sure. You probably had a water leak to. Glad your able to work on your own ski. These things are getting up there in age and no shop in my area wants to touch them.

 

[Dman142]

If you mean the wear ring, no brass. I installed a stainless wear ring. Supposedly that is helps the plastic pump from flexing and creating cavitation issues.

I’ll try to work on anything that doesn’t require advanced electronics or need for a laptop and software.

Going to test it today. Cross my fingers. Season is almost done here so if it still cavitates, I’ll deal with it next year.

I have posted my carbon ring/top hat / C clip install method the next thread down.

 

[Dman142]

Still not too impressed with the reduction in cavitation. I think a new impeller is the next step. That’s the only thing I have not changed out.
Any recommendations?

 

[tazzboo]

With the new wear ring you installed, do you still have a large gap between the prop and the ring?
I tried a solas prop in mine and it was actually slower then the factory prop for my case. So if your buying a new prop I would say the factory all the way. Curiosity does your ski have the side panels called splash guards? I think mine is what was considered the limited that year. That might explain the difference in my pump then yours. Looks like the stock prop is

STAINLESS IMPELLER ASS'Y​

267000673​

 

[Dman142]

I know when I replaced the wear ring in my XP, the prop was much tighter than this setup. After a couple hours of use with the GTX, there is very light marks on the stainless wear ring. After inspection of the rings, the one that came with the ski, is fairly uniform in the scrape marks all the way around. The second one I put it for a few hours has impeller marks on only about a 1/3 of the ring. The remaining 2/3 of the ring have no marks whatsoever. Looks brand new. (Pics below) Can easily turn the prop by hand when installed in the pump. The prop is in very good condition. I imagine the wear ring is just that, supposed to wear instead of the prop. Perhaps I’m getting bad wear rings? It was the same with the plastic wear ring I did and same with the stainless. They are about the same in terms of gap between the prop and ring. I am fairly confident they should fit tighter but 3 in a row fit the same. Thus, leading me to believe the prop is the issue.

I have also sourced a 2004 aluminum pump and waiting for some pics and then buy it.

 

[tazzboo]

Let us know what becomes of the aluminum pump. I haven't tried mine on the 2002. I believe you will still need to use the wear ring from the 2002 pump on the aluminum. There was some differences in the drive shaft length between the 2002 and the 2003 and later models. From what I have seen the pumps look to be the same. I have an Aluminum pump off of a ski I can get measurements for you if you like. Shame I don't have my 2002 pump off to show you the bronze in side of mine. Meaning the VEINS of mine are bronze. The 2003 and later had plastic veins from what I have seen. When I put the Aluminum on my 2006 model the only thing I needed was some Stainless Washers for the pump mount bolts. It bolted right up.

 

[Dman142]

Are you experiencing cavitation with your 2002? (If i’m reading your post right) What pumps are interchangeable? It would help with the search as most things posts say use the 2004 RXP pump and information ends there.

I have not read about driveshaft differences between the models.

I would take my prop and ring and install in the aluminum pump.

 

[tazzboo]

The Aluminum pump I am using on the 2003 model is part number 267 000 046 if that helps any.

From what I have seen between the two wear rings between the 2002 and 2003 and later is the 2002 is not as tall. AKA the length of it is not as long so the prop sits partially out of the pump. So explaining the difference in the shaft length. I am no expert on these things at all. I am just trying to help since I have the same model and have done some of the things you are doing now. I could be wrong.


27200185 is the Drive shaft for the 2002

271001449 is the Drive shaft for the 2003

So they are different, how I don't know. I just seem to remember someone saying the length. Whish I could find the post for you.

Using metal pump Housing on 2003 4tec

2003 Plastic Pump..... You guys weren't' kidding :)

 

[Dman142]

You must be talking about this. The first (blue) I bought had it listed to fit a 2002, but it doesn’t. Replacement (black/silver) is the correct height.
Guy who sold it said it was used now and wouldn’t take it back even though his listing was wrong. The only use it has was be slipping it in the pump and pound back out.

Anyone here have any leads to an aluminum pump? I have very little contacts with jetski guys. Only chance I have is eBay or marketplace

 

[Dman142]

While doing research, I found this on SBT. It seems to show a pump from 2002-2017 130/155 will work. That expands the search quite a bit. Indicates it even fits several years of the jet boats.
Is this a typo or not? They claim their pump fits all these years.

GTX/GTI/RXP/Wake/Speedster/Sportster/Challenger Jet Pump Assembly 155mm 267000104 2003-2009