2001 RX Reboot Project – MPEM related question

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I'm going to need another parts bin.

Wow, I did not realize how bad this was until I got under this with a flash light. I didn't even think to check because I did check it while the ski was in the garage on the work stand no where near water, and it was fine. A little bit of surface rust, but no where near what it is now.

Proving once again stainless is just stain LESS:

Jet pump – Google Drive

Obviously, this all could be binding. The impellar can be cleaned up a bit, but that drive shaft is F**D.

Jet pump – Google Drive

The last drive shaft I saw like that, I rode till it broke in half. It was on one of my SPX's:

SPX – Google Drive

So pump first (has to come out anyway for driveshaft replacement). It "shouldn't" be stuck into the PTO because it has grease in the boot.
 
mikidymac said:
If you have the carbon seal on the driveshaft make sure you remove the c-clip before removing the pump.
Click to expand...
Wouldn't it be easier to push it towards the back to remove the circlip with the pump off? The manual indicates to remove the pump first, then remove the circlip. It actually has you remove the pump, then says if driveshaft does not come out, remove circlip. See Drive System section for removal.

1679765170997.png
1679765201114.png

It's probably also easier to reinstall with the pump still off too since you'll have no push back from the pump.
 
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Ok, pump is off. It is not seized. I'm able to turn it by hand. Drive shaft outer surface is nasty, but that's not going to play a part in the over all turning within the PTO shaft since the inner surfaces are protected. It may eventually rot entirely through, but unless i have to pull the engine, I'm not sure if I want to screw with it at this point.

Next up: Starter removal.
 
How in the heck do you get access to remove the back bolt on the exhaust on the carb side. It's bad enough you can only back out two of the bolts partially, and totally remove two, but there's not enough room to even put a wrench in there even if I did know what size the bolt is. I have polygonal wrenches, I just cant get them in there to figure out the size.

It would be nice if Seadoo manuals actually described the size of each bolt rather than just saying...insert bolt or remove bolt.
 
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thejuice48 said:
Wouldn't it be easier to push it towards the back to remove the circlip with the pump off? The manual indicates to remove the pump first, then remove the circlip. It actually has you remove the pump, then says if driveshaft does not come out, remove circlip. See Drive System section for removal.

View attachment 61590
View attachment 61591

It's probably also easier to reinstall with the pump still off too since you'll have no push back from the pump.
Click to expand...
No because you have to push the stainless hat back to get to the c-clip and with the pump out you have nothing to stop the driveshaft from going back when trying to push the stainless hat.
 
thejuice48 said:
How in the heck do you get access to remove the back bolt on the exhaust on the carb side. It's bad enough you can only back out two of the bolts partially, and totally remove two, but there's not enough room to even put a wrench in there even if I did know what size the bolt is. I have polygonal wrenches, I just cant get them in there to figure out the size.

It would be nice if Seadoo manuals actually described the size of each bolt rather than just saying...insert bolt.
Click to expand...
They make a special bent wrench to get to that bolt but if you remove the carbs first the pipe is a breeze.
 
Is it a 15mm? I read somewhere a 15mm polygon wrench would work, I think that's the same thing as an offset box end.
 
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Where are the bolts to remove the carbs located? I only see 2 readily accessible. Everything else is blocked, and those go beyond the carbs on the gray part of the engine. Do I have to disconnect all the cables to the carbs, or just disconnect them from the block and set them aside?
 
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mikidymac said:
No because you have to push the stainless hat back to get to the c-clip and with the pump out you have nothing to stop the driveshaft from going back when trying to push the stainless hat.
Click to expand...
Mine doesn't move either way. Do I have to loosen the hose clamps first?
 
thejuice48 said:
Mine doesn't move either way. Do I have to loosen the hose clamps first?
Click to expand...
The "hat" or stainless mating piece must be pushed toward the rear or the ski about 1/2" so you can remove the ring that is holding the "hat" in position. I'm working on a GTX DI that I am going to have to SPLIT the hat to get it off the shaft and do that without damaging the shaft. I beat on that thing with a long heavy punch and a 3 pound hammer. I don't think I bent the drive shaft but I'll check it. Sometimes THEY just don't wanna play fair. LOL Good Luck !!
 
Today and yesterday I've about had it. Nothing has gone well trying to get the starter out.

Can't get to the bolts for the starter no matter how I try, so I was going to remove the exhaust and carbs. Figured I'ld at least have to blow them out anyway.

Can't get in there to get to the bolt underneath the exhaust without removing the carbs or the tool.

Tried to remove the carbs, and I can't get the top left bolt out because I don't have a 5.5mm extra long hex bit for a socket wrench, to insert through the access point behind the exhaust, and whoever installed the carbs on this thing tightened them so tight I can't get an angle on a regular allen wrench to break it loose either.

No one here locally sells a 5.5 extra long hex bit. I checked Autozone, Advanced, NAPA, etc.

Over the weekend I ordered the special seadoo tool, and I ordered the 5.5mm extended hex as well.

I also disconnected the choke link, removed flame arrestors. I have big bin of parts, as well as a new parts bin. All to get at the starter.

I remember removing the drive shaft previously, and releasing the hose clamps on the compressable boot fitting allowed it to scoot back. The hat does move side to side, it just won't move back. I'll look at that today if all the other parts come in.

Someone recommende dusing ATF fluid to unlock the engine if it's locked. Anyone ever done that before? I have already sprayed PB Blaster and Sea Foam Deep Creep in the engine in case it's not the starter.
 
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JC-SUPERJET said:
That Plastic Elbow Fitting looks like the Anti-Siphon Elbow used in the Bilge System. It comes with a Pin-hole...
Click to expand...

That was my first thought without seeing a photo of it. If so, air was getting into the fuel line and you definitely ran lean.
 
thejuice48 said:
Today and yesterday I've about had it. Nothing has gone well trying to get the starter out.

Can't get to the bolts for the starter no matter how I try, so I was going to remove the exhaust and carbs. Figured I'ld at least have to blow them out anyway.

Can't get in there to get to the bolt underneath the exhaust without removing the carbs or the tool.

Tried to remove the carbs, and I can't get the top left bolt out because I don't have a 5.5mm extra long hex bit for a socket wrench, to insert through the access point behind the exhaust, and whoever installed the carbs on this thing tightened them so tight I can't get an angle on a regular allen wrench to break it loose either.

No one here locally sells a 5.5 extra long hex bit. I checked Autozone, Advanced, NAPA, etc.

Over the weekend I ordered the special seadoo tool, and I ordered the 5.5mm extended hex as well.

I also disconnected the choke link, removed flame arrestors. I have big bin of parts, as well as a new parts bin. All to get at the starter.

I remember removing the drive shaft previously, and releasing the hose clamps on the compressable boot fitting allowed it to scoot back. The hat does move side to side, it just won't move back. I'll look at that today if all the other parts come in.

Someone recommende dusing ATF fluid to unlock the engine if it's locked. Anyone ever done that before? I have already sprayed PB Blaster and Sea Foam Deep Creep in the engine in case it's not the starter.
Click to expand...
Carb bolts are 6mm. Remove the 4 6mm bolts and the carbs will drop. Then you can easily get to the nut on the exhaust manifold.

The SS collar on the driveshaft will slide backwards but cant slide forwards because of the C clip or oring on driveshaft. You need the pump on the ski to keep the driveshaft from moving as you put pressure on the collar.

If the engine is locked up, pull the head and see what you find. Sounds like it ran lean if that elbow with a pin hole was on the fuel line feeding the carbs.
 
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On second thought, for how you are using this ski, I think I would recommend returning it back to 100% stock and go from there.
 
thejuice48 said:
Today and yesterday I've about had it. Nothing has gone well trying to get the starter out.

Can't get to the bolts for the starter no matter how I try, so I was going to remove the exhaust and carbs. Figured I'ld at least have to blow them out anyway.

Can't get in there to get to the bolt underneath the exhaust without removing the carbs or the tool.

Tried to remove the carbs, and I can't get the top left bolt out because I don't have a 5.5mm extra long hex bit for a socket wrench, to insert through the access point behind the exhaust, and whoever installed the carbs on this thing tightened them so tight I can't get an angle on a regular allen wrench to break it loose either.

No one here locally sells a 5.5 extra long hex bit. I checked Autozone, Advanced, NAPA, etc.

Over the weekend I ordered the special seadoo tool, and I ordered the 5.5mm extended hex as well.

I also disconnected the choke link, removed flame arrestors. I have big bin of parts, as well as a new parts bin. All to get at the starter.

I remember removing the drive shaft previously, and releasing the hose clamps on the compressable boot fitting allowed it to scoot back. The hat does move side to side, it just won't move back. I'll look at that today if all the other parts come in.

Someone recommende dusing ATF fluid to unlock the engine if it's locked. Anyone ever done that before? I have already sprayed PB Blaster and Sea Foam Deep Creep in the engine in case it's not the starter.
Click to expand...
If the engine is locked up, "breaking" it free isn't going to fix anything.
Either the crank or balancer are damaged or the rings are rusted to the cylinders. Any one of these and even if you did get it free, it's going to blow up.
 
mikidymac said:
If the engine is locked up, "breaking" it free isn't going to fix anything.
Either the crank or balancer are damaged or the rings are rusted to the cylinders. Any one of these and even if you did get it free, it's going to blow up.
Click to expand...
Its going to put a hole in his cases in no time haha
 
I realize that getting the drive shaft free isn't going to fix anything. I'm thinking more long term. When I get the starter out, if I can't turn the engine, then I still need to remove the drive shaft so I can throw a new engine in there. SBT is about 7 miles away. So I'll pick up an engine from there and slap it in.

Today I've been working on getting at the starter. The extended hex set I bought was too long, so I had to fabricate a hex tool that was long enough to get access to the carb bolts, but short enough to get a wratchet behind it to break the bolts free from the carbs. I ended up cutting off a t-handle hex set for the 5.5 and 6, with a dremmel cut off wheel, and inserting the cut offs in a socket to be able to remove the bolts:

1679935015892.png

1679935079803.png

1679935103131.png

Interestingly enough, when I was able to see and access the starter, the positive cable leading to the starter was loose enough to spin freely and had green corrosion on the connector:

1679935245196.png

I cannot get the starter free from the engine yet despite prying and pulling. I sprayed it all with deep creep in hopes it will free itself and I can quit cursing in the hot sun.

1679935291587.png

The bracket, is laying on the bottom of the hull lose from the starter:

1679935431616.png

It seems in contradiction to the manual, the above long running steel bolt is another bolt I have to remove.

Anyone know?
 

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To pull the starter the only remove the bracket on the back part of the starter. You simply pry out the starter unseating it from the o-ring sealing surface. You should be able to remove it with the carbs out of the way. May need to use a wedge or an old screwdriver to break it loose. Be gentle and patient. Wiggle and pry.... wiggle and pry. :D
 
thejuice48 said:
I realize that getting the drive shaft free isn't going to fix anything. I'm thinking more long term. When I get the starter out, if I can't turn the engine, then I still need to remove the drive shaft so I can throw a new engine in there. SBT is about 7 miles away. So I'll pick up an engine from there and slap it in.

Today I've been working on getting at the starter. The extended hex set I bought was too long, so I had to fabricate a hex tool that was long enough to get access to the carb bolts, but short enough to get a wratchet behind it to break the bolts free from the carbs. I ended up cutting off a t-handle hex set for the 5.5 and 6, with a dremmel cut off wheel, and inserting the cut offs in a socket to be able to remove the bolts:

View attachment 61610

View attachment 61611

View attachment 61612

Interestingly enough, when I was able to see and access the starter, the positive cable leading to the starter was loose enough to spin freely and had green corrosion on the connector:

View attachment 61613

I cannot get the starter free from the engine yet despite prying and pulling. I sprayed it all with deep creep in hopes it will free itself and I can quit cursing in the hot sun.

View attachment 61614

The bracket, is laying on the bottom of the hull lose from the starter:

View attachment 61616

It seems in contradiction to the manual, the above long running steel bolt is another bolt I have to remove.

Anyone know?
Click to expand...
No, do not remove that bolt. It holds the starter together and does not connect to the engine in any way.

Salt water skis are never fun to wrench on. Good luck my friend.
 
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