2001 Merc 240 EFI sportjet // first rebuild

[Mariciv]

Just received my freshly re sleeves and bored block back and noticed that they planned the top of block but did not fill in the little chip and dent on top of cylinder. See pics. I'm no expert but isn't that exactly where the o-ring sits? If not fixed, water will get in? This place specializes in these engines so I'm surprised that it came back this way.

 

[Dr Honda]

Those should have been welded before the new sleeve was installed. I personally would have raised hell before taking the block from the shop.

BUT... since the sleeve can't come back out, and unless you want to get into a legal battle... I would personally mix up a little JB Weld, and just fill them in. You can shave it smooth with a razor before it totally cures... and lightly sand it. It will be ok.

 

[Mariciv]

I didn't get a chance to inspect cause it came from 600mi away by currier. I will call them tomorrow to complain. They will need to fix it. My only concern is that they will need to re bore all cylinders if they weld as they might loose roundness due to heat. What do you think?

 

[Mariciv]

How do I know if myTPS is positioned correctly? What is the best way to check and adjust? Thx

 

[Dr Honda]

There's a test in the manual on setting the TPS. Basically, tap the wires, and read the voltage. (not hard) They want you to buy a special harness... but you can simply push some thin pins though the wires, and hook your meter to them.

 

[Mariciv]

Does the main bat. switch need to be ON for the test?

 

[Dr Honda]

Yes... and the key on, since the ECU needs to send power to the TPS.

 

[Mariciv]

Thank you. I finally got my block welded and ready for reassembly. I am now in search of all the products needed. Unable to find loctite locally so I was wondering if I can use permatex gasket maker to join block halves? Also what grease can replace 2-4-C? Is it necessary to use exactly the brands I the manual? Pipe sealant????
Plz help

 

[Dr Honda]

Seaming a case needs special stuff. I don't like the Loctite stuff personally. I use Threebond 1211. Yamaha gets it under their own label, but it's changed over the years. It use to be Yamabond grey. Now I think it's #5 or #6.

You can use Permitex fuel safe thread sealer.

AND... Any good grease is fine. If it's on splines... I use Synth waterproof stuff (I like Green Grease) and if it's inside... any molly grease is fine.

 

[Mariciv]

Thanks dr Honda

 

[Mariciv]

I am installing the new oil gear on to crank. The screws are much smaller then the old one. What do I use to lock the screw in place? Can't find in the manual. Thx

 

[Dr Honda]

Yes... put the gear on, and use GREEN thread locker. It's wicking, and it's permanent. It will work into the threads, and you may have to break the screws to get it apart 10 years from now. (make sure the bolts and nuts are clean first)

 

[Mariciv]

Thank you. I used permatex Red thread locker. It's the permanent one. I hope it will be ok. On a separate note, I assembled the Pistons to the rods and am now ready to install Pistons. I put a ring in the cylinder and measured the end gap. It's at 0.021". It says in the manual that max is 0.018". These are brand new with freshly bored cylinders. Is this gap acceptable?

 

[Dr Honda]

It's probably OK... a little loose. But what's the clearance on the pistons?? If they are loose... then they will have a short life.

 

[Mariciv]

They are loose. I can move them in the cylinder but without rings. What should be the max clearance? I'm starting to be annoyed with the shop that did the job.

 

[Dr Honda]

It's a measured clearance. You need to measure the cyl, and measure the piston, and find the difference to a few thou. If it's loose... the pistons will crack, and you won't transfer heat to the walls. Too tight, and they will swell, and seize. This is a critical measurement.

 

[Mariciv]

So I completed the build and installed the engine. I tried to start it and the starter will not turn over. All I am getting is a spark sound coming from the solenoid. I'm pretty sure all is connected properly. Here are some pics. Any ideas of what it can be. I will start testing tomorrow. Thx

 

[Dr Honda]

Grab a big fat screwdriver, and jump the big lugs on the solenoid to see if the start will spin.

If it does... then I'm going to assume the solenoid is bad. If it doesn't... then the starter is bad/stuck/jammed.

 

[Mariciv]

I tried and nothing happened. I tested the voltage via both big lugs on the solenoid and it reads constant 12V when the main yellow is hooked to the starter (like in picture). Is that normal? Should the main on the starter be grounded?

 

[Mariciv]

Ok so I played with the wiring a little and the starter turns but will not engage the gear and makes a roughy sound.

 

[Mariciv]

Took the starter apart. It is shot. Brushes are broken and so is the bracket. Ordered new one. Thanks for your help.

 

[Dr Honda]

Keep going... you are getting close to a running boat.

 

[Mariciv]

So I finally did it. All is good first crank and the beast started. Started it on a garden hose for cooling and noticed that the starboard side head gets hotter then port is that normal?

 

[Dr Honda]

You don't have enough flow on the garden hose, and the engine will overheat. I'm sure it will be fine once you are in the water.

 

[Mariciv]

Ok great thank you. I really appreciate all your help with this project. Will take it off n the water tomorrow. Cheers