2001 GTX DI reving only to 3350

[Old but not tired]

Two years ago I took it to the dealer for a tune up. It came back blowing fuses (see previous posting). Dealer was no help. It was out of the water for two years.

Finally solved the fuse problem and got the SD in the water. Started fine but would only rev to 3350. Wide open throttle. Tried three different keys. Replaced plugs: had newer plugs in and tried older ones, no difference). Smell of gas is noticeably more than I remember.

Any suggestions?

UPDATE: out of the water it will do 4500 RPM.

IF there is already a thread on this, please point me in that direction, I did search for the last hour but found nothing similar enough.

 

[jhjesse]

Check the compression first. Should be 135 to 140psi.
Are you getting a maintenance light?
Crank ski and look around the fuel system for leaks.

 

[Old but not tired]

update: I unplugged the red and black harness from the rectifier. The ski started and ran with no change to the max rpm. I tested the yellow wires to ground (at the harness end near rectifier) and found open circuit. Testing the three wires against each other found 2.2 ohms of resistance on my cheap multimeter for each pair. However, putting the two leads together on the meter showed 1.8 ohms of resistance so I suspect the net resistance is less than 1 ohm. The recitifier was replaced several years ago with not many hours since and an unconnected battery most of the time. It is OEM as far as I know.

Previously tested the battery when rev'd to 3000 rpm and got 13.5 volts although it jumped around as my assistant had trouble holding the revs.

It is running freshly pumped, non ethanol gas at 87 octane. Getting the same "performance" as using old plugs, old gas,.

 

[Old but not tired]

Bad Recitfier? Testing the rectifier with Black on Red, all three yellow gave a reading of 390 +/- 3. Red to Black lead gave open circuit readings for all three yellow (as did black to black and red to red). I presume this is a bad rectifier. Would that account for low rpm?

Update: I took my rectifier and multimeter to the dealer to buy a new OEM rectifier. Before purchasing I asked to test the new one. It tested the same as my old one (which is also OEM): that is the only voltage was from black on red. The red to Black was open circuit. In viewing the rectifier videos on youtube, which look like motorcycle units, the red to black test should produce some voltage. Does anyone know if the seadoo model is reading correct or if the dealer also has a bad rectifier?

Also, with the better multimeter, the resistance of the stator leads measured at the harness end were all under 1 ohm. I think the stator is ok.

 

[jhjesse]

Yes. When the rectifier goes bad the ski goes into limp mode limiting rpms.

A good test to see if the rectifier is bad would be to put a volt meter on the battery and start the ski and rev to 3000 to 3500 rpms. Volt meter should 13.5 to 14.5vdc. Any voltage lower than that or higher than that means a bad rectifier. Unplugging the red and black wires does nothing on a DI.

Have you tested the compression yet?
Again does the maintenance light flash on the gauge cluster?
You should also be running higher octane gas.

 

[Old but not tired]

Yes. When the rectifier goes bad the ski goes into limp mode limiting rpms.

A good test to see if the rectifier is bad would be to put a volt meter on the battery and start the ski and rev to 3000 to 3500 rpms. Volt meter should 13.5 to 14.5vdc. Any voltage lower than that or higher than that means a bad rectifier. Unplugging the red and black wires does nothing on a DI.

Have you tested the compression yet?
Again does the maintenance light flash on the gauge cluster?
You should also be running higher octane gas.

I have not tested compression because I don't have that tool. There is a flashing maintenance message/light when running but not when first attaching the key. The manual on my 2000 model calls for 87 octane.

 

[jhjesse]

Ahh... was thinking it was a 2001 for some reason. When maintenance light comes on I
The ski will usually go in limp mode limiting rpms.
Have you load tested the battery? Any auto parts store can do that.

 

[mikidymac]

Most auto parts stores rent or loan compression gauges.

 

[Old but not tired]

UPDate: Problem Solved!

I pulled the rectifier and took it to the dealer. They pulled a new one and it tested exactly the same. So I gave up and let them take a look. Voila! It was a bad air injector. Replaced with OEM part and it runs great.

I wonder if this was also the cause of my blowing fuses on harness 4. When I unplugged all the connectors on that harness, the air injectors were among the hardest to reach. After reattaching all the connectors, the fuse held. Glad to be back on the water.