2001 GTX Build

[garrettb]

I'm starting a new thread now that I am making more headway instead of troubleshooting. I want to keep this updated with photos as I go, and hopefully get input along the way!



Today I bought some Super Clean and did a quick job scrubbing the inside- what a difference! Even the gas tank looks new. The best part about cleaning the inside of a seadoo is finding all the hardware carelessly lost by previous owners. I found two RAVE valve springs, and lots of other goodies. The two springs in the middle are green, are they the right ones for my valves? The ones I removed from inside the RAVEs of course didn't match.



When I pulled the engine this afternoon, I removed the fitting to drain the counterbalance oil. I grabbed a big bottle thinking I'd get more than a few drops, but all I got were a few drops! Oh well, at least it still smelled like gear lube.



Walmart syringe to get an exact 40mL... or maybe a little more to be on the safe side! I'll be loading it up with the same lube I put in my pumps.



Trying to get all the various lines and hoses on this engine figured out could be a nightmare had I not marked off where each one came from. When I replace these lines, should I look for oetiker clamps or can I use plastic ZIP ties?

 

[jamiepdavies]

[emoji1303]

 

[jhjesse]

Subscribed.
Rebuilding a 2001 GTX myself at the moment. Buffing the hull while waiting on engine parts.

 

[garrettb]

Nice, is yours red too? Let me know what you use to bring the gel back. Mine is very faded in some spots.

 

[garrettb]

Some progress today. I got my gas and oil tank back in, and all the wiring back in and tied up. While removing the old Tempo lines that had literally turned rock hard, I broke the stupid waterchannel cover... Does anyone here have a spare they'd part with? I was really hoping to get this engine reinstalled this week. Guess not!

 

[jhjesse]

Blue and silver.
Meguiars heavy cut #105 is really good. Then follow up with fine cut and polish before waxing.

http://t.harborfreight.com/32-oz-meguiars-ultra-cut-compound-62223.html

 

[CReynoldsMIZ]

Some progress today. I got my gas and oil tank back in, and all the wiring back in and tied up. While removing the old Tempo lines that had literally turned rock hard, I broke the stupid waterchannel cover... Does anyone here have a spare they'd part with? I was really hoping to get this engine reinstalled this week. Guess not!

View attachment 38241

Don't fret, I'm sure [MENTION=41828]Minnetonka4me[/MENTION] can hook you up with something

 

[garrettb]

Good call! If I really can't find one, I may try tapping a hole where it broke and fit a brass hose barb. I have a tap and die set, and it's already broken, so I might as well try.

 

[jhjesse]

Same thing happened to me last year while restoring my other 2001 GTX DI.
I went to ace hardware and purchased a brass barbed fitting the same size with a 1/8th NPT pipe thread. Drilled and tapped it. Holding great, no problems.

 

[Minnetonka4me]

Ive got one in stock, but I get many of these and the front plate with fittings threaded into them.

 

[garrettb]

Thank you guys for the input and suggestions. Tapping threads was a success. I have always wondered why they used that grey Tempo stuff for the water regulator and water channel covers, when the rest is the clear poly line. Doesn't make sense to me.

 

[garrettb]

I am making progress on the engine, and am about ready to install it. Before dropping it in, I decided to "dry fit" the exhaust pipe. I know the manual states a specific torquing procedure, but it's next to impossible to get done while in the ski. I learned my lesson while working on my 2000 GTX. Sealing the pipe while trying to keep it aligned and tightening the clamp is absolutely horrible. This time around, I checked to make sure everything was fitted right and all the mounts were where they needed to be beforehand, and lo and behold, I found a surprise. Someone did a real shoddy job of sealing the pipe together. They didn't get it aligned properly, creating a gap between the rear exhaust mount, and didn't even use ultra copper sealant.

What works best for me for installing the exhaust is the following:
1. Fit pipe while engine is out of ski, and torque engine exhaust mounts based on how the pipe fits
2. Remove the pipe and drop engine in
3. Slide engine back to slip full pipe in
4. Secure pipe out of the way, and align the engine
5. Torque pipe and smile!

Hopefully by this weekend I'll have a majority of it together, and with any luck I'll be able to fire it up.

 

[Jasonv]

Subscribed

 

[garrettb]

One step forward, two steps back. I couldn't find a torque spec for the vent nipple, so I figured I'd use the spec for the plug on the carbed engine. WRONG! This plug is brass, that one isn't. Needless to say, I hope I didn't strip the threads in the case. UGH!

Off to the parts department I go!

 

[garrettb]

Because I am at a standstill on engine stuff for a while, I started focusing on the exterior. The finish on my mirrors is pretty terrible. I am thinking of just painting them black. Thoughts? A carbon fiber wrap seems too complex with all the curves.

 

[snikwad003]

I've seen mirrors wraped on you tube tutorials, not necessarily seadoo mirrors, I guess it depends on wich wrap you have. That thing is gonna be sweet dude:cheers:

 

[garrettb]

I painted the mirrors today, but may have to do some touch ups tomorrow after it dries a little more. I used the same paint soccerdad used on Shamu.



Last night I made an impulse buy at 11:57 PM, just before the sale ended on Blacktip seat covers. Hopefully it fits well!

 

[jcleary93]

that cover will look real nice on that ski

 

[garrettb]

Engine is in, forgot to take a picture! While working on alignment (it took a lot of shimming), I noticed a few bolts sticking up through the pump shoe. After investigating, I found quite a surprise. Not only were all the bolts holding the intake grate wrong, they weren't even stainless! Incorrect hardware is one of my biggest pet peeves. Naturally, I had to pull it all apart. I found that not only was someone so lazy to not check the inside of the hull for the other half of the bolt, they actually drilled and tapped new threads INTO the broken part of the stud! I couldn't believe my eyes. The last picture isn't mine, but I am going to use it to show what else happened. someone also drilled out the metal threaded inserts, and had through bolted the other side of the grate to the shoe. I still haven't decided whether I want to replace the shoe, but I worry about implications on the flow of water through the pump with bolts sticking up. Who has dealt with this before? Is taking the ride plate off a huge deal?

 

[garrettb]

I got my seat cover in the mail a few days ago. I had to toss it on there quick to see what it will look like. The silver is slightly lighter, but all in all it will look so much better than stock. They even left the logo off for me!

 

[garrettb]

I also got the pump torn apart today. I didn't even need to break out the propane on the pump shaft! I got rid of the nasty wear ring, and inspected the impeller. Is this impeller beyond saving? It looks original, but the edges are really bent. I'm sure something like this would cause vibration/cavitation, yes? Oh, and I have read horror stories about non-OEM wear ring issues, so I'll spend the extra dough to get the real deal. Before everything goes back, I need to figure out something with this impeller.

 

[Ankeneyou]

That's not in bad shape at all. You can try to straighten and then file down the small rough sections on the leading edge.

SBT also does really well with refurbished impellers. They mail you one and you ship yours back in the same box.

 

[mikidymac]

It it were my money I would send it to Skat-Trak for a refurb. I can't say enough good things about their work.
I would check with Nick (Minnetonka4me) too, sometimes he has them in stock.

 

[garrettb]

I visited their website and couldn't find any info about impeller repair. How have you dealt with them in the past? On eBay I had been watching a good used OEM one in nice shape for the past week, and it just sold for $40 (of course).

 

[mikidymac]

They used to have an online form for impeller repair but I don't see it on their new website.
I would just call them (909) 795-2505.

They are pretty great in that when they get your impeller they will call you before the work is done to let you know what the total price is because it might require welding if it is worn undersize but when you get it back it will be better than new. They blueprint it and make it exactly as it was specked from the factory.

I have also used Impros but it took them two tries to get the impeller back to stock condition and when they needed a second chance to get it correct it still didn't look as nice as the Skat-Trak one. THe first time they sent it back it still had cavitation burns in the hub area that they "forgot" to fix. Never again.