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2000 SeaDoo GTX RFI Won't Go Over 3,500 RPM... Has No Power

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q45lover

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I have a 2000 SeaDoo GTX RFI. It runs but won’t go over 3,500 RPM's... It wants to take off with a few sputters but it never does... I took it to the dealer and they told me it had like 30 fault codes... They wanted to clear the codes and do a water test for an additional $100... I told them to clear the codes and I would take it out again knowing that I had ordered the CanDoo Pro Scanner. I took it out and it still ran poorly... It runs but won’t go over 3,500 RPM's... It wants to take off with a few sputters but it never does...

I got the CanDoo Pro scanner and scanned my 2000 GTX RFI today and these were the error codes that came up... I have no idea where to start...

P0604 RFI ENGINE MODULE RAM OR EEPROM DEFECTIVE
P0605 RFI ENGINE MODULE EEPROM DEFECTIVE
P1600 CLOSED TPS OR IGNITION OFFSET NOT PROGRAMMED
P1601 RFI ENGINE MODULE DATA OUT OF RANGE 1/3 BYTES
P1602 RFI ENGINE MODULE DATA OUT OF RANGE 3/3 BYTES
P0562 RFI ENGINE MODULE POWER-UP VOLTAGE UNDER LOWER LIMIT
P0563 RFI ENGINE MODULE POWER-UP VOLTAGE OVER UPPER LIMIT
P0117 ENGINE TEMP SENSOR ABOVE UPPER LIMIT
P0118 ENGINE TEMP SENSOR UNDER LOWER LIMIT
P0116 ENGINE TEMPERATURE SENSOR MALFUNCTION
P0122 TPS UNDER LOWER LIMIT
P0123 TPS ABOVE UPPER LIMIT
P0219 MAXIMUM ENGINE SPEED EXCEEDED
P0335 ENGINE SPEED SIGNAL NOT DETECTED
P0336 ENGINE SPEED SENSOR SYNCHONIZATION ERROR
P0112 INTAKE TEMPERATURE SENSOR ABOVE UPPER LIMIT
P0113 INTAKE TEMPERATURE SENSOR UNDER LOWER LIMIT
P0107 INTAKE PRESSURE SENSOR UNDER LOWER LIMIT
P0108 INTAKE PRESSURE SENSON ABOVE UPPER LIMIT
P0262 MAG FUEL INJECTOR SHORTED TO BATTERY VOLTAGE
P0261 MAG FUEL INJECTOR SHORTED TO GROUND
P1200 MAG FUEL INJECTOR OPENED
P0265 PTO FUEL INJECTOR SHORTED TO BATTERY VOLTAGE
P0264 PTO FUEL INJECTOR SHORTED TO GROUND
P1201 PTO FUEL INJECTOR OPENED
P0230 FUEL PUMP RELAY SHORTED TO BATTERY VOLTAGE
P0478 RAVE SOLENOID SHORTED TO BATTERY VOLTAGE
P0477 RAVE SOLENOID SHORTED TO GROUND
P0479 RAVE SOLENOID OPENED

Could a bad EEPROM or RAM be causing all of these fault codes? I can take the Scanner and run the ski in the water with it but I am not sure what that is going to tell me. Why would the dealer want to do a water test?

Thanks in advance for any and all help on this!
 
That's a lot of stuff, something is wrong because I don't see how the ski is even running. It's going to take someone smarter that me to help you with this.

P.M. Dr. Honda and ask him to take a look at this post.

Lou
 
Last edited by a moderator:
WOW.....

Don't know about this one. All the codes have contradictory codes.

Can you clear the codes? If you can... try that first, and then see what comes back.

Yes... if you have an bad memory in the MPEM, it will cause all kinds of problems. By any chance, did you hook-up the battery backward?
 
I can clear the codes... I was told the dealer cleared them and assume those are the ones that came back... I will clear them and run it again... The battery was never hooked up backwards to my knowledge... I did change the battery to an oydesey and installed a battery tender but I know I never hooked up the wrong terminals... I am very careful about that...
 
You will have to RESET TPS to zero: Manualy return the butterfly to close Position BEFORE you reset the TPS with the b.u.d.s. programmer.
I agree with NICK that your problem may also be moisture/water in the gas tank, as RFI are very touchy about that. SO, swab the tank!
 
So I hooked up the programmer and it is not clearing the RFI Fault codes... I click clear fault codes and then it says searching for DESS... I am going to search the forum of the CanDoo Pro programmer on what that might mean... Also the jetski will not start at this point... It will kind of start and then sputters to a stop if I do not give it gas... WHY DID I BUY AN RFI GTX!?!?!?
 
So it turns out the CanDoo Programmer only changes the fault codes to inactive rather than clearing them... Because it does not run at this point I cannot look at the live telemetry. Should I need to reset the TPS because I changed the battery?
 
I have a similar issue on a 2000 GTX DI. The red light along with flashing Maint appears and the ski goes into limp mode. Brought the ski to dealer and no fault codes appeared. Dealer stated that ski should not go into limp mode for maintenance flashing. Reset maintenance warning and gave ski back. I took ski out again and now have the original problem mentioned. Dealer claims to be baffled. Any ideas ??
 
So I made all the codes inactive and this is the only one that is coming back

P0335 ENGINE SPEED SIGNAL NOT DETECTED

Where is the engine speed sensor and before I buy a new one is there a way to check the old one?
 
q45lover said:
So I made all the codes inactive and this is the only one that is coming back

P0335 ENGINE SPEED SIGNAL NOT DETECTED

Where is the engine speed sensor and before I buy a new one is there a way to check the old one?
Click to expand...






Before u go the buy anything,,, check u coils,see if the same voltage on boat cables before spark plug.
 
amelbmw said:
Before u go the buy anything,,, check u coils,see if the same voltage on boat cables before spark plug.
Click to expand...

The problem ended up being the fuel injectors... I had a dealer replace the fuel injectors and my problem was solved...

Seems weird to me but the boat runs great now...
 
just seen this thread, but the engine speed sensor fault is always there, cause the scanner is hooked up and the engine isnt turning over, btw, that fault is if you have a bad crank position sensor -- been ther, done it, now, if its running ok, take and run it on lake, bring it back and put some new plugs in it, then, set your minimum tps, and enter it in the mpem, then set your idle out of the water to just about 3200 rpm, this will be real close to 1500 rpm in the water -- rfi is a good system, the di is the hard one to work on .......
 
1 more thing i believe you should do, is take off the sparkplug boots at the sparkplugs, take a utility blade and trim off between 1/4 - 3/8 of and inch off the wire, (they are solid core wires) this gets rid of old corroded inner wire, (you will see), then screw boot back on (its threaded ) and secure with a tie strap -- .......
 
griz400 said:
1 more thing i believe you should do, is take off the sparkplug boots at the sparkplugs, take a utility blade and trim off between 1/4 - 3/8 of and inch off the wire, (they are solid core wires) this gets rid of old corroded inner wire, (you will see), then screw boot back on (its threaded ) and secure with a tie strap -- .......


Having same problem here... New battery.. new rectifier... all fuses are good... i havethe same issue since purchasing the ski. It is a 2002 GTX RFI. I noticed once I would fuel the ski up i had a very hard time getting the ski to start but managed to get the ski started and would run fine an start easily until the next time i would refuel then same issue. However, this last time i rode the ski it was fine ran great on te way to the marina , i refueled and had a hard time getting it started but managed to get it to fire up but was unable it to get it to rev over 3500 rpm. So i pulled the ski out of the water and took it to the house to tackle this problem. I hooke the ski to the waterhose turned the ski on and ran it for about 2 minutes then it shutoff. I let the water continue to run throigh the ski. I just saw that you are supposed to start the ski before running the water and the shutoff the water before killing the ski... now i am unable to get it to start. It will try and start and turnnover for a split second then die. By split second I mean literally a second. I installed new battery, new rectifier, and checked fuses. Where do i start?
Click to expand...
 
Please start a new thread instead of just quoting and old one. I will be locking this thread.
 
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