2000 Sea-Doo GTI Won't Run Properly - I want to blow it up!!
- Thread starter betzgb
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andrewterri
Active Member
you can remove the oil injector pump and put on a block off kit. that is not going to change your fuel problem though. i know you have taken your carb off and checked it several times but have you torn it down and cleaned all orifices and ports? i understand it is kind of a chore but if you cant find anything else it might be worth a hail mary before spending that much on a new carb. It will allow to change spring while you in there. Do you have the old Needle and Seat? if you have been using the same n/s and it keeps getting rich I would change them, even if you have to go back to the oil ones if you cant order new
andrewterri
Active Member
i just ordered a mukini kit and only had the 65gr and 95gr spring in mine. At least i think it was a 95, there was a little debate about that on another thread. what spring did you have in there before? i can not remember your popoff range. is it something like 35-40? you have checked your jet settings right? low at 1 and high at 0?
Your ski should run with the factory settings and the 2.0 needle and seat.
If it is flooding your needle isn’t sealing. Are you using a genuine mikuni diaphragm?
Also you shouldn’t be checking pop off with the carb completely assembled. With it back together you should only be testing to see if it holds 10 psi indefinitely to make sure your needle isn’t leaking.
If it is flooding your needle isn’t sealing. Are you using a genuine mikuni diaphragm?
Also you shouldn’t be checking pop off with the carb completely assembled. With it back together you should only be testing to see if it holds 10 psi indefinitely to make sure your needle isn’t leaking.
andrewterri
Active Member
another member suggested to spray wd-40 on the seat, reassemble carb, and test pop-off. Is that not correct? This was the procedure I was going to do when I change my springs out.
IDoSeaDoo
Well-Known Member
Yea, that's just to make sure that your diaphragm wasn't pressing down on the spring. The ideal way is to test with the cover off, so you can change the springs faster. I believe you should get the same result either way, just unscrewing that cap will ruin the threads if you do it too much.
Ok I decided to pick this project back up again tonight given Memorial day has me in the boating spirit. I rebuilt the carb one more time, cleaned it all, tested pop off (32 psi), put in fresh gas, and gave it a go. Seadoo still doesn't run properly. I am having a lean condition because I can make it idle but the choke needs to be about 7/8 closed to make it run (idle). I have played with the low circuit needle valve (1 to 2 turns backed out) and no change. It appears to have fuel since I can see the accelerator pump squirt fuel into the carb throat for 2-3 strokes after I shut it off. What could be wrong with the engine that would allow air into the combustion chamber causing a lean condition assuming the problem is not in the carb? What steps would you recommend to further diagnose?
I don't think everyone that sells Genuine Mikuni kits is selling a FULL Genuine Mikuni Kit. I weighed the needle on my carb yesterday and one I pulled out of another Cab. I was using my reloading scale which I haven't used in years... I'll use grams but I am not sure that was the scale setting. One weighed 7.5 grams the other weighed 19. Either way... one was twice the weight of the other. Not sure that always matters but I'd figure the heavier one is the "real deal" and I just purchased Genuine Mikuni Kits for the GTX. Disgusting is what it is.
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