2000 rx melenium edition HELP PLS.

[caliburn]

thanks if I cant manage to fix it thats a good deal and will buy it, was wondering still how to check if the top end was rebuilt and since I have everything off the top of the pistons looking down the valves was dry as a bone is there a way to check the oil injection since the carbs are off?

 

[ski-d00]

on the top of the pistons, there will be a size stamped into very small and normally gets filled with carbon but clean it well and you'll see it, this will tell you if it has been bored and oversized pistons installed. i wouldn't worry so much about it being rebuilt, what really matters is your current compression and what oil the previous owner used.

best way to check oil injection is to remove it and put a drill to it and it will pump oil. you can also remove a hose to the inj to get some air bubbles, then start it and hold it wide open and watch the air bubbles move. it is a very reliable system really. most issues are caused by using the wrong oil not the oil pump itself.

 

[caliburn]

thank you so much for your help, when I looked there was no sing of carbon at all on the top of the left piston, I will look for #, I know it has Lucus marine 2 stroke oil in it from the previous owner, I use penzoil synthetic on my GP1200R but put a D-Plate in it, as for the oil lines, you mean turning it over full throtle right? not running?

 

[ski-d00]

There's the problem, that Lucas oil is TC -W3 oil and will eat that motor up in just a few hours and turn it into scrap. probably why they just did a top end job on it and it sounds like it's on it's way to another. There should be carbon build up on the piston and gummed up rave valves are to be expected, just a necessary maintenance item.

You need to use full synthetic, non TC-W3, just do a search on here or just read the label right next to the oil fill cap that nobody seems to be able to read.

I prefer the bomby xps full synthetic but it's the most expensive, others like the full synthetic quicksilver or the amsoil full synthetic but they really aren't much cheaper. I've seen 951s go over 400 hours when the bomby has been always used.

 

[caliburn]

I will be sure to drain the tank and purge the oil lines, yes I only use the 2w, great more work but better to be safe then sorry.

 

[caliburn]

Ok now working on the cracked hood, I thought I could unscrew the top from the bottom and there I go BUT NOOOOO, Its never that easy could not get to the bottom last screw so I had to take the hinge apart to flip it to get to the last one and it still will not seperate, its like factory glued or what how do I seperate this stupid thing frot top from bottom?

 

[caliburn]

There's the problem, that Lucas oil is TC -W3 oil and will eat that motor up in just a few hours and turn it into scrap. probably why they just did a top end job on it and it sounds like it's on it's way to another. There should be carbon build up on the piston and gummed up rave valves are to be expected, just a necessary maintenance item.

You need to use full synthetic, non TC-W3, just do a search on here or just read the label right next to the oil fill cap that nobody seems to be able to read.

I prefer the bomby xps full synthetic but it's the most expensive, others like the full synthetic quicksilver or the amsoil full synthetic but they really aren't much cheaper. I've seen 951s go over 400 hours when the bomby has been always used.

what is the differance between TCW3 2 stroke synthetic blend and APT TC rated, I can run the TCW 3 synthetic blend in the YAMaha

 

[Spimothy Leary]

skipping the chemistry lesson, but I believe its an ash/low ash thing, and has something to do with high rpm engines.

api-tc is for seadoo

tcw3 is for yamaha, you "could' run tcw3 for a while on a seadoo its not like putting diesel in a gas tank, but over time It will gum up the rave valves, and could poosibly lead to top end issues, but i've known people that ran tcw3 for quite some time (myself included) because they didn't know the difference and the ski was fine.

 

[caliburn]

thanks, does anyone know how to sepeate the hood I have pics above.

 

[bell99man]

And just because 2 oils are rated the same does not mean you can mix them. If you need to switch brands, you'll need to do a oil system flush. Some will react badly with each other and gel up in the filter and lines. Speaking of lines, replace those injector lines every year or 2 and they won't fail. If they have flaking paint on them, definitely replace them. Use Tygon 3/32" lines from a small motor shop rated for gas.

Kevin

 

[caliburn]

Ok was going to but seen the strange hook ups out of the oil injection pump, do you just pull them off or is there some trick to it?

 

[bell99man]

They usually have a metal clip that's a beast to free up. Some patience with pliers and you squeeze it in the right spot and it will come loose. If it has what looks like a zip tie or wire tie, just cut it. The tube is just a push on fit like the fuel line and should slide off. If yours is different from this, then disregard the above.

Kevin

 

[caliburn]

thats it , I think, no zip tie though, I will get right on it thanks. does anyone know how to seperate the bottom half of the hood from the top that is factory glued at the hinge section?

 

[ski-d00]

for the hood, once all bolts are removed, it has to slide backwards about a quarter inch, there are tabs holding it so don't just try to pry it apart. the factory doesn't use any glue, so that must be some hillbilly workmanship from the po.

 

[caliburn]

Ok just seem ed like it to me and looked on ebay and seen the same year of 2000 hoods and they all looked glued at the hinge when seperated to me as well, you sure about that,

 

[ski-d00]

you may be right, they may have used some 454 out on the pointy tip of the hood but only where they didn't have room to put bosses in. I vaguely remember that but has been several years since I worked on one. getting old.

 

[caliburn]

yeh It has glue between the two halves together, I am almost sure of it, so now I am screwed, there has got to be a way of sepperating them without breaking it, since the tabs for the screws twisted right off tell me it would be easy to damage it, right now its back on with alittle JB weld on the broken hinge, so I will wait till I find this answer and here I thought this was going to be a easy fix, as I am a body man. replaced the fuel lines, all of them, cleaned carbs that really looked good and filters, new carb manafold gaskets, new exhaust gasket, put a inline filter in it to, cleaned rave valves that were clogged up, new spark plugs, drained oil tank and new filter, fixed fuel sender, and had to figure out the ritual for putting the exhaust back on that was fun, put grease in the crank nipple, can anyone think of anything I am missing, going to fire it up today hope all is well, when do rave valves need to be replaces when they get wore?

 

[caliburn]

ok went to walmart they dont sell the full synthetic quicksilver only the twc-3, went to Orschlen's that carry Mystik products, nope nothine there either but TWC-3 by Phippips 66 and I read on it that it far exceeds API-TC, Off to O'reilly's all they had was master pro, and Lucus oil read the lucus oil and it to says far exceeds any API-TC product, states no carbon build up and on and on and it to is TWC-3 but none of them are full synthetic only blend, so Now how far do I have to go just to get some Fu$%^% oil thats API-TC full synthetic when by reading the lables I have just seen specificly says its BETTER then anything labled with a certification of API-TC so now what, I can try Carquest but I garetee I will get the same results there to, next I will have to drive an hour just to get to another city

 

[caliburn]

Ok well everything is done new fuel filter, lines, cleaned raves and carbs, oil filter, xps oil, she starts right up, now for the water test, she idels at 1240rpm and its pretty ruff, whats the idel rpms for this?

 

[daboostcreep]

Please do tell me how to fix mine! My gas gauge doesnt work!

 

[ski-d00]

3000 rpm idle out of water, give or take. 1500 rpm idle in water and that's how you should set it.

 

[caliburn]

Please do tell me how to fix mine! My gas gauge doesnt work!

just the gas gauge?, unplug the sender and cross over the plug in on the ski side, if you get a gas reading then, let me know, more then likely its a bad F1 resister on the circit board in the Fuel Baffle/sender