2000 challenger 2000 with 240 EFI M2

[jwp]

Hey Everyone,

Long back story, but someone else might find this useful!

I finally got everything fixed on my project boat last year and took it for a spin. After about 10 minutes of running around it would stall out when I slowed down. After it did that twice the motor wouldn't turn over and got a tow back to shore. Brought my battery to the parts store for a test and of course they said it was bad ($150 later). I put the new battery in the boat and it started and squealed and died. Grabbed the nut with a socket and turned it over. Found out it was very tight. Removed the plugs and sprayed the cylinder down with some lube. Started spinning pretty good so I started it again and it locked back up pretty quickly. I feared the motor had ran without mixing 2 stroke oil and was setting up.

This spring I again turned the motor over by hand end everything felt pretty smooth, so I lube the cylinders again mixed up some 2 stroke oil in a gas can and ran the fuel line into it. Started the motor and it ran just fine! Smoked a lot. So I "assumed" I found the problem was just my oil wasn't being mixed and I would have to premix myself.

I decided to change the oil in the lower unit and the stator. Pulled the plugs on the lower and about 2 shot glasses worth of oil came out! Read the warnings online about don't lose the gaskets in the plugs, but the gaskets were gone and the last guy never replaced them. I refilled the lower and the stator (which wasn't bad and still had oil in it).

I brought the boat to put it in the water yesterday, started it up just fine and absolutely no thrust! Forward/reverse nothing! Loaded it back up and went home can climbed up the unit. The impeller and shaft spin freely! I believe the impeller is gear driven and a direct drive unit and should only spin with the engine. I am going to again "assume" that I trashed the gears in that assembly based on the low oil and free spinning shaft.

Question #1 Does everyone agree with my prognosis?

Question #2 Do I have to remove the motor to access the gearbox to validate my concerns or can I get in there from the impeller end of things to find out what needs to be replaced?

Question #3 Does anyone have some good instructions on how to do this? I have been searching the internet with little success.

Thanks in advance for the help!

 

[poppie]

Unfortunately you are correct about the shaft spinning freely. It's direct drive to the engine. Unfortunately you do have to remove the motor to access the pump gears. Removing the engine actually pretty basic. Just disconnect all fuel and electrical and remove the bolts. There is a lifting lug available that threads into the end of the crankshaft. It's worth the investment.

 

[jwp]

Thanks. I've gone ahead and ordered the lifting lug and labeled/disconnected everything (breaking the 5/8" to 1/4" fuel line vent TEE!) and unbolted the motor to lift it out. Once I get my hands on the lug and a cherry picker I'm going to give it a try.

Then it will be a matter of pulling that lower unit apart and figuring out what gears need to be replaced.

Thanks again

 

[Tim75]

Thanks. I've gone ahead and ordered the lifting lug and labeled/disconnected everything (breaking the 5/8" to 1/4" fuel line vent TEE!) and unbolted the motor to lift it out. Once I get my hands on the lug and a cherry picker I'm going to give it a try.

Then it will be a matter of pulling that lower unit apart and figuring out what gears need to be replaced.

Thanks again

Both gears will need to be replaced. Both will be damaged.
One gear (vertical) is on the shaft that slides into the crank.
The other gear is bolted onto the front of the splined impeller shaft.

While you are in there, replace all the seals, and bearings.

 

[jwp]

Well I finally got it apart and what a mess it is! Gears and bearing are shot and have been pulled along with the seals. I have ordered new bearings and seals and a used set of gears to get it back together and in working order. Now what I'm finding to be a pain is figuring out how to measure the pinion clearance and backlash. It looks like there is a special tool for everything and nothing is cheap! I am second guessing buying a used jet drive and just replacing it.

There is a special tool PN 91-824890 that is inserted into the assembly to measure clearance, but they are 100 to 200 bucks. Anyone ever make their own? I was looking at the pictures and it looks like only a few diameters and hole for the feeler gauge. Was thinking if i measure the bearing ID and the impeller cover bores I have two thirds of the diameters needed. Not sure if the locating diameter on the tool is the OD of the impeller gear tooth or something else? Anyone have a tool they want to sell, loan or measure let me know. I could get a sketch together and have one made out of aluminum. In the long run it would probably be easier to just buy one, but for a single use it drives me nuts.

Thanks again for the input and I'll try to take some pictures along the way to share the rebuild process since what I have found in the manual and online is not the greatest for us backyard mechanics.