1999 xp stalls on take off

[lowriderallen]

i have a xp that stalls on take off, it doesn't this all the time if you get it past the point that it normally stalls it runs great, i need somwhere to start i am new to PWC's i have been riding and racing atvs for years, please help me thanks

 

[timmyboy76]

carbs...

replace the grey fuel lines and pull carbs, go thru them, and clean out the xcellerator pump and brass fittings on the carbs.

 

[lowriderallen]

OK thanks i will do that do you know about how much fuel line i will need to replace all of the grey lines, thanks again

 

[timmyboy76]

You got both, 1/4in line and 5/16in line of fuel...think its around 15ft of 1/4in, and 5-8ft of 5/16

 

[sgtdale]

gray fuel lines

If i were you i would replace the fuel lines fast.
I have a 98xp and was plaining on replacing the gray fuel lines during winter down time.
Me son wanted to go out one last time last fall and i ended up melting my pto pistion do to cloged filters in side carb
I replaced motor because of that last ride

Your rave valves should be cleaned too.

 

[lowriderallen]

Are the filters in the side of the carbs easy to get to i not going to ride till this is done, i will check the raves also do i have to remove the exhaust to pull the carbs on my 99 xp, thanks.

 

[timmyboy76]

looks complex, but no..no need to remove pipe,...dont even think ,once you start, can remove the pipe, without the special wrench, for the back bolt.

Undo the clip on top/in the middle of the airbox, remove the 2-duct pipes, and maybe relocate the oil bottle, then snorkel out the rest of airbox, and wham, carbs are exposed.

 

[lowriderallen]

just finished changing the fuel lines and cleaning the carb filters, i noticed that the raves where covered in black oil is this normal thanks

 

[timmyboy76]

just finished changing the fuel lines and cleaning the carb filters, i noticed that the raves where covered in black oil is this normal thanks

since you pulled them,...hit'em with wire wheel/brush and some carb cleaner, then scrap, if have to, with razor, to get the heavy crap off, but yeah, not to say, should be black, but will build up over time.

 

[lowriderallen]

Thanks for your help, how should i go about adjusting the oil injector on the side of the motor, the raves were covered in black oil but they were not gummed up just really oily so i will clean them how do i get the green seal off the raves is there some kind of trick i didn;t want to mess them up, thanks

 

[timmyboy76]

leave it alone

Thanks for your help, how should i go about adjusting the oil injector on the side of the motor, the raves were covered in black oil but they were not gummed up just really oily so i will clean them how do i get the green seal off the raves is there some kind of trick i didn;t want to mess them up, thanks

Make sure the "notches/markings" are lined up.

 

[lowriderallen]

ok i am still having the same problem it misses and sputters under 3000 rpm and want to die sometimes if youget it running more than 4000 rpms it runs great and seems to have no problem the spark plugs seem to have too much oil on them how do i set the oil injector and is it possible that is my problem seems like its smoking too much what can cause that is my oil injector dumping to much oil or is it something else

thanks

 

[seadoosnipe]

Stalling....

If your stall occurs when you are at idle, then as soon as you hit the throttle, there's a dead spot. And if you can feather the throttle a little to get past that dead spot and the engine runs fine, it's your accelerator pump.

These are a PITA when it comes to keeping a crisp fuel system. The pump is a small diaphragm pump and is used at take off, to provide a small squirt into the fuel to give the engine it's initial speed up to build manifold pressure (vacuum) to start pulling fuel through your venturi on it's own. If you look at the exploded view, you'll see it inset as part #63. To check this, take off your air box. It's easier to have help but you can do it yourself. Once the airbox and flame arrestor are off, look into the throat of the carbs. You'll see this small brass nipple (jet) about 1/4" long or so. Now, either have your friend goose the throttle or you can grab your sync bar on the linkage of the carb and wind it to wide open. When you do this, you should see a squirt of fuel shoot out from each of these. With the motor off, you can only do this a couple times before the fuel holding inside the diaphragm runs out. So, make sure you are watching closely when you do it.

There are also a series of check valves, small balls and springs, that help control the operation of this system. You'll notice a brass elbow where those nipples go through the body of the carb. These are also check valves. Take a can of carb cleaner, use that little red plastic tip on the end. Take off the little small hose to each nipple and spray a squirt into each one. You'll see it shoot into the carb once it's clear.

If you get to the point that you have to dis-assemble that accelerator pump, be careful not to rip that diaphragm. The only way to repair it is buy a new one and they cost about $200 bucks..........

Your adjustment on the oil pump. You can only adjust this if you've checked the adjustment on your carbs. They need to be at "0". Which means, back them off your idle stop screw till they are not touching. Turn that screw in two full turns. Then, check the alignment on your oil pump cam.

The problem with that oil on your RAVE's is normal, depending on how often they have been cleaned. Better to have oil than dry and blow the engine from a lack of oil. This is something you also see when premixing the oil verses using the oil pump. Also, the type of oil can play into how much oil or carbon is on them...............but, this is not the cause of your stammer when taking off..........it's def your accelerator pump...........:cheers:

 

[lowriderallen]

doesn't the accellerator pump sqwirt gas when you nail the throttle, mine stutters even if i ease on the throttle once above 4000 rpm's it runs great but i think its an out of adjustment carb and oil injector i realy lost here. thanks for all of your help.

 

[dalamar112]

I have this same problem with my 96 xp, I was trying to use your post here and compare it to my carb diagrams to locate the accelorator pump, but I am either missing it or mine is a different problem.

 

[revereamg]

dont listen to the maniacs with their gray fuel lines. thats thier answer for everything. that is what filters are for.

anyways, your low speed screw needs adjustment. there are 3 screws on your carberator, idle screw, high speed screw, and low speed screw.

your best bet is to pick up the shop manual. that will tell you which screw is which and where they need to be adjusted to.

 

[seadoosnipe]

Grey fuel lines....

dont listen to the maniacs with their gray fuel lines. thats thier answer for everything. that is what filters are for.

anyways, your low speed screw needs adjustment. there are 3 screws on your carberator, idle screw, high speed screw, and low speed screw.

your best bet is to pick up the shop manual. that will tell you which screw is which and where they need to be adjusted to.

This post is a very misleading post and there are no maniacs here to state that. I will easily make proof to this problem. Look at the bottom of my signature. There, you will see a link to the "snipes korner". Click to that link and you will see a post I dedicated to those grey lines. I split the line open and you can see the obvious problems these Tempo lines are causing, blocking up our filters.

As for the accelerator pump.....no, it's primary purpose is from a dead stop to about 2 or 2500 rpm. By this time, the vacuum is built in your manifold and the fuel is being freely pulled from the venturi of the carb.

It doesn't take more than 30 minutes to drop that air box and flame arrestor. Try it, I think you'll be surprised into what you see.

As for revereamg, please do not make a statement to our members that bears no weight. Make your case by proof. I have pictures and documentation from not just our site, but from other high performace sites around our country like Group K, Riva and PWCtoday.........so, plese, make sure you know what you are talking about before making such a blanket statement..............:cheers:

 

[lowriderallen]

ok i have the problem when i ease on the throttle and when i nail it it also has a very rough idle, wheni first put it in the water it ran great idled great but once it got warm the problem got worse and worse, it starts right up just want run right sometimes i can get it up to 3000 rpms ad it spits and sputters the whole time but if i go more than 3000 say 4000 rpms and up it takes off like a rocket thanks

 

[bigJake]

QUOTE=revereamg;101177]dont listen to the maniacs with their gray fuel lines. thats thier answer for everything. that is what filters are for.

anyways, your low speed screw needs adjustment. there are 3 screws on your carberator, idle screw, high speed screw, and low speed screw.

your best bet is to pick up the shop manual. that will tell you which screw is which and where they need to be adjusted to.[/QUOTE]

:rant:Hey bozo, you are criticizing experts who give excellent advice and are amazing at diagnosing problems without ever seeing the ski. Not to mention that they donate their time to help us non-mechanics. This is just my 2nd year with skis and knew absolutely nothing about them. The "maniacs" (primarily Snipe, Karl and Timmy) have helped me with several problems either directly or by reading other posts that have the same problem. Within 2 weeks of buying my 2 skis, one of them developed the classic bogging down problem, I replaced the gray fuel lines and cleaned the carbs as these crazy maniacs suggested and my ski run great now. Yea, that's what the filters are for, but mine were so clogged it was amazing any fuel was gettign thru at all. So unless you are planning to clean you carb filters twice a week, you just keep running with those gray fuel lines and be sure to post back here how much your engine rebuild cost you. Don't write stupid things that may cause other members to damage their engines as well. :willy_nilly::boxing_smiley:

 

[bigJake]

more rant

QUOTE=revereamg;101177]dont listen to the maniacs with their gray fuel lines. thats thier answer for everything. that is what filters are for.

anyways, your low speed screw needs adjustment. there are 3 screws on your carberator, idle screw, high speed screw, and low speed screw.

your best bet is to pick up the shop manual. that will tell you which screw is which and where they need to be adjusted to.

:rant:just had to add more rant, was looking thru your prior posts and it sure seems like you don't know a damn thing about skis but you are criticizing the experts. You state in one post that your ski tops out at 40mph:rofl: :ack: both of mine go 60-65. sure sound like you better replace those gray fuel lines and clean those carbs fast, unless you're just riding your grandma around with you.:rant::cheers:

 

[lowriderallen]

BUMP i just need help thanks !!!!

 

[dalamar112]

I actually have replaced my fuel lines and recleaned my carbs ( for a third time because I was stuborn and didn't replace the lines for a while, also my fuel filter was always clean ). I never used a carb rebuild kit on them though, I simply took everything appart cleaned all the green goo out of them, hit any rubber o rings with a light oil and put it all back together. (I set the low and high air skrews to factory default when I put it back together, I have had several people tell me that if you have to adjust either screw from factory settings then you are just compinsating for a larger problem with the carbs) I have been planning on doing a proper rebuild over this winter, but I just saw this post and was wondering if there was a particular area of the carbs that I should be looking for the problem at. Thanks for your posts.

 

[timmyboy76]

jacked thread..

I actually have replaced my fuel lines and recleaned my carbs ( for a third time because I was stuborn and didn't replace the lines for a while, also my fuel filter was always clean ). I never used a carb rebuild kit on them though, I simply took everything appart cleaned all the green goo out of them, hit any rubber o rings with a light oil and put it all back together. (I set the low and high air skrews to factory default when I put it back together, I have had several people tell me that if you have to adjust either screw from factory settings then you are just compinsating for a larger problem with the carbs) I have been planning on doing a proper rebuild over this winter, but I just saw this post and was wondering if there was a particular area of the carbs that I should be looking for the problem at. Thanks for your posts.

it would've been best to start your own thread, so, any other use, please create new one..:cheers:...anyway, if positive you didnt bend the "tang" at the n/s (needle and seat) assy, while re-installing everything to your carb, then make sure, your idle out of water is at 3000rpm. Make sure the hsa(one with black cap on it) is set at "0", and your lsa (low adjuster, looks like the idle screw) is set at "1" on both carbs.
Also, your yr/mdl, DOES NOT have xcellerator pump, which they're located on the pto carb.

 

[timmyboy76]

BUMP i just need help thanks !!!!

yours have the xcellerator pump, may need to remove the airbox again, and with a mirror, use it to look down, throat of carbs while actuating the throttle....everytime you actuate throttle, it'll "squirt" fuel into carbs.
Your settings should be at, low at 1.5, and highs at 0. Make sure the RAVES are good/cleaned, use the same mirror to identify that the "notches" on the oil pump are aligned, try new plugs, and clip the plug wires at the boots ends and reinstall boots,..then give ur ski a whack, and hit the forum up on ur results...:cheers:

 

[lowriderallen]

OK i pulled the carbs and noticed that the brass elbow that goes into the carbs from the accellerator pump both were completely clogged i am letting them soak in carb cleaner, i also noticed that there was some water in my air box i think my exhaust gasket is leaking from the head pipe which is going right into the airbox, i am keeping my fingers crossed that this is all my problems thanks for all of your help guys i will let you know how it turns out thanks.