1999 XP Limited 947 Problems

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SteveXP

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Son's jet ski died while going all out for about 5 min. Tries to start but will not. Compression only 40 in front cylinder, 120 in rear. Started taking apart to look for problem but cannot get to lower nut connecting tuned pipe flange to the exhaust manifold. Is there a trick or special tool for this?
Don't know much about jet ski engines and using a Clymer manual. Repair shop said probably $1500-$2000 to repair and I can't afford that. Guessing it is either rings, piston, or cylinder. Someone else said reed valve maybe.
Any advice appreciated.
Steve
 
Downloaded the factory manual for free. The clymer one sucks. Just google seadoo manuals.

Pull the airbox and carbs first then you have easy access to all pipe bolts.

These typically seize from dirty carbs.

A new engine is $1200. Check with fullbore as they might have a winter special.

How many hours? Typically a 951 crank with more than 100 hours won’t survive a new top end.
 
Thanks for the heads up on the Seadoo manual. I downloaded the correct one. I also went to Fullbore and the price for this motor is $1300 I believe.
Not sure of the hours. I bought it used in about 2009 and it has only been used maybe 3 or 4 hours since then but winterized and unwinterized every year.
You said typically these seize from dirty carbs. If so, I guess I would also have to have the carbs rebuilt along with the engine?
If the rings/piston is damaged, do you assume the crank is damaged as well? Could it just be a damaged reed valve causing the compression problem? Thanks.
 
You can have a dealer check the hours as the computer stores them.

Yes, carbs need to be rebuilt, fuel strainer clean with new o-ring, selector changed and oil injection lines replaced.

If the crank has under 100 hours it might be fine.

Reeds won’t cause that much of a difference in compression.
 
Thanks. Sounds like I could just have the engine top end rebuilt if the hours are low. According to manual this can be done without pulling the entire motor? Is rebuilding a carb for specialists only or something I could try with Seadoo manual? Do you need to take the carbs to a dealer for rebuild or does whoever is doing it need the whole jet ski? Stupid questions, I know, but just trying to decide what to do. Thanks for replying.
 
No “stupid” questions! You are unfamiliar with working on these. So therefore you ask the questions. No “stupid” questions, Sir! You are only seeking info and people here can provide what you are looking for to make an informed choice.

Stoopid would be to go about it without asking and end up paying double or triple the cost by ruining the engine or just simply abandoning the project all together for lack of knowledge.

You’re doing it right!

If you are mechanically inclined. The carbs can be rebuilt very easily by reading the Mikuni carb manual and possible YouTube videos. If you’re not comfortable with doing this type of work. Send the carbs out to a pro for a rebuild. Be sure to only use genuine Mikuni parts along with the needle & seats.

If you send it out. They would only need the carbs and nothing else. So a shoe box will be plenty with bubble wrap will protect the carbs while being shipped.
 
I think I will keep going for now and see what I find with the cylinders/pistons/rings. Can make some further decisions at that time. Thanks again. Probably more questions in the near future.
Steve
 
If the compression is that low and that far apart. The top end most likely seized taking out the piston, rings, wrist pins, cylinder walls etc. So at minimum a top end rebuild is in order.

About that lower nut. I believe this is the wrench needed to get at that nut.
Crazy price. But you can always make this tool for less money.

37.jpg
 
If you pull the carbs that wrench isn’t necessary. Just pull the carbs first, it is so much easier.
 
Made much progress today. Took bolts and nuts off cylinder head but it does not budge. How best to loosen? Would not think I want to try and pry apart with screw driver. Tapped with a rubber and leather mallet but still no luck. Any help appreciated.
 
Got the cylinder head off. Lots of metal filings/debris on top of piston in the bad cylinder. Not sure of my options at this point? Pull entire engine and send to Fullbore? Pull top end and send to Fullbore? Any thoughts??
 
Best to do the entire motor since the total hours are unknown. A fresh top end on a weak bottom end spells disaster and frustration.
 
Thanks again for all your info. Have a few more questions.
1. Where can I get carbs rebuilt and do you know a ballpark cost? Is it hard to reattach them to motor after rebuild?
2. How will I know I have fixed the problem that caused the blown engine in the first place?
3. Is it hard to align the new engine with the drive?
4. Looked like a place on exhaust manifold to hook engine hoist? Should I reattach the manifold and use this?
Will talk to my son but I am really thinking of trading in both skis (one working, one not) and double trailer for one decent working jetski and a single trailer.
Steve
 
1. Don't. Buy new. they are about $400. Then sell your old on eBay to someone who does rebuild them.
2. verify cooling system and oil systems. these are most likely to cause issue.
3. I've never done anything other than bump the starter a few time after dropping one in. The XP uses a shaft through the fuel tank that's fairly forgiving.
4. yes. you only remove the raves, carbs, and pipe, and connections, then you can pull the engine out by that handy hook. Ohh and on the XP, you'll have to remove the stainless bar under the PTO. That's a fun one!

I used to buy a lot of broken 951 skis... now my time is spent fixing a broken Formula 292.. so I'm out. You might get $500-800 for the XP. it's off season, so... maybe less. I hate to say it, but you may just part it out depending on it's shape. the MPEM and jet pump are worth the most. I could swap an engine in a XP in under 4 hours if I have all the stuff staged. Maybe less if I didn't split the pipe. The XP is the only one you can actually remove w/out splitting the pipe. saves a ton of time!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
SabrToothSqrl said:
1. Don't. Buy new. they are about $400. Then sell your old on eBay to someone who does rebuild them.
2. verify cooling system and oil systems. these are most likely to cause issue. The fuel system is more likely to be the reason for the seizing. What color are your fuel lines?
3. I've never done anything other than bump the starter a few time after dropping one in. The XP uses a shaft through the fuel tank that's fairly forgiving. Actually the 97+ XP and HX need the proper alignemnt more than anything. That middle driveshaft will eat couplers if the engine is not aligned correctly and destroy the driveshaft and PTO.
4. yes. you only remove the raves, carbs, and pipe, and connections, then you can pull the engine out by that handy hook. Ohh and on the XP, you'll have to remove the stainless bar under the PTO. That's a fun one!

I used to buy a lot of broken 951 skis... now my time is spent fixing a broken Formula 292.. so I'm out. You might get $500-800 for the XP. it's off season, so... maybe less. I hate to say it, but you may just part it out depending on it's shape. the MPEM and jet pump are worth the most. I could swap an engine in a XP in under 4 hours if I have all the stuff staged. Maybe less if I didn't split the pipe. The XP is the only one you can actually remove w/out splitting the pipe. saves a ton of time!
Click to expand...

While I agree with almost all of this....
 
If your looking to off the ski, id be willing to take a drive from NY and pick it up from you. Send me a private message if or when you decide to ditch it.
 
Correct, fuel lines eroded by the idiotic decision to appease farmers (ethanol), are a problem. missed that one.
 
Such a shame another motor was fried due to these grey fuel lines.

If you had to guess. How many Sea Doo motors have been roasted due to these grey fuel lines.

I’m assuming these lines were used starting in 1996.
 
I guess we are just going to declare it dead and get rid of it. If I wanted to try and sell any parts, would I sell them individually or advertise the whole jet ski? Is Craigs List the best place to post it?
Also, there is a 97 XP on the other half of the trailer. Is it OK to just have 1 jet ski on a double trailer?
Lastly, you guys have been great. It is so helpful to have a website like this to get advice from.
Steve
 
If it's in good shape - see if someone wants to bring it back. It's a oily hassle to disassemble, then deal with buyers when parts don't "work".

- The grey fuel lines were fine. it was the addition of ethanol in the fuel that caused the failures...

Yes, you can have just one ski on a multi trailer... just not the other way ;)
 
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