1999 Sea Doo GTX RFI - Top end rebuild questions

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LIBoater

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I have bitten the bullet and I’m going for a top-end rebuild… I’m sure many on this forum have done this 100 times, but it’s a bit daunting for me… so a couple of questions:
1. Where do you recommend I go for the rebuild kit and to have the heads bored/refinished?
2. Assume I should send the rave valves in with the heads to get them shaved as needed?
3. Similarly assume I should refurbish the rave valves while I’m at it? Same question as #1, where should I source a good refurb fit?
4. I have the heads removed, but the piston retaining clips are pretty stubborn (could be my (bad) technique?). What is the best way (tool?) to remove the old and install the new?
5. Any other “gotchas” I really need to watch for? Gasket kits? Gasket sealer (I read that the great stuff is best?)

A lot of questions, as always… appreciate, in advance, the support from the brain trust here! Thanks.
 

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I send all my cylinders to Group K along with the rave valves.
For kits WSM are good for a stock rebuild, PRO-X pistons are a little better and OEM are the best. IF it was me probably WSM.

No gasket sealer on any of the top end gaskets, follow the manual.

How many hours on the ski?
Also I recommend sending the injectors out for testing and cleaning, @etemplet has an "injector guy".
 
I send all my cylinders to Group K along with the rave valves.
For kits WSM are good for a stock rebuild, PRO-X pistons are a little better and OEM are the best. IF it was me probably WSM.

No gasket sealer on any of the top end gaskets, follow the manual.

How many hours on the ski?
Also I recommend sending the injectors out for testing and cleaning, @etemplet has an "injector guy".
Sound advice, thanks… I had spoken with Full Bore about sending heads, pistons and valves to them… they seemed pretty knowledgeable, but I’ll also give Group K a call… I’m traveling right now, so can’t check the hours, but she’s a well-used 1999 model… if @etemplet as an injector guy, it’s probably worth getting those cleaned, as you say… do I send them the whole fuel rail, or just the injectors?
 
Do not send to FullBore if you want to see your engine back in less than 2 years or at all. Also would caution you about SES.
 
Now I have the heads off and the pistons out, I will call Group K on Monday to get them refurbed... I think I've found the "low compression" issue with the front piston (see pic)... the bottom piston ring has all-but-gone and some nasty scratch marks on the piston itself... I had a good look in the crankcase and there doesn't seem to be any debris, so hoping I dodged a bullet there?... thanks @etemplet I have the injectors off and will send them to your man while I'm at it... really appreciate all the advice... the removal of it all was nowhere near as daunting as I expected... hoping the rebuild follows suit!... stay tuned...
 

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...and for any who follow, the Injector Guy (Jeff) is:

Fuel Injector Man
5307 Shirley Street, Suite W
Naples
Fl. 34109
Tel: 239-591-3332
www.fuelinjectorman.com
jeff@fuelinjectorman.com

...super-responsive (replied to my email overnight)... $20 for top feed injectors and $26 for side feed... so worth it, while the engine is in bits... thanks for the tip, guys!
 
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...and for any who follow, the Injector Guy (Jeff) is:

Fuel Injector Man
5307 Shirley Street, Suite W
Naples
Fl. 34109
Tel: 239-591-3332
www.fuelinjectorman.com
jeff@fuelinjectorman.com

...super-responsive (replied to my email overnight)... $20 for top feed injectors and $26 for side feed... so worth it, while the engine is in bits... thanks for the tip, guys!
@etemplet my injectors came back and Jeff sent a bag with o-rings and what looks like jets with them… I called but they are closed over the weekend and I’d really like to get cracking on the rebuild… I assume (dangerous) that these are the old parts returned, or do i need to install them somewhere? (apologies for the 1st grade question)
 

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I just noticed my oil line from the crank case to the oil tank is degraded… makes sense to replace before I replace the cylinders (easy access)… can I use any clear 12mm tube, or, if not, what is the suggestion?
 
I tried using alternative material for the oil. I didn't find anything that works as well as the Seadoo Oil lines. I don't know what the material is but it seals great round the fittings and you won't have any leaks to chase. Once and done. I looked for Tygon in that size byt could't find it. Good Luck !
 
I tried using alternative material for the oil. I didn't find anything that works as well as the Seadoo Oil lines. I don't know what the material is but it seals great round the fittings and you won't have any leaks to chase. Once and done. I looked for Tygon in that size byt could't find it. Good Luck !
Where can I get Sea Doo oil lines Will my local Sea Doo agent stock them, or is there a good place online I can try?
 
You can by the seadoo stuff from one of the Seadoo suppliers. I think this one from the current forum.

Sea-Doo Parts & Accessories | Sea-Doo Parts House or click the link at the top of the TOP of the Forum Header.

Problem is with any tubing it needs to be specific. I will only use fuel/oil rated tubing. I like the tubing that has lasted 25 years. LOL

NOTE: The big problem I had was the tubing I first tried was stiff and the clamp would not seal completely around the fitting so I had a drip. Very slow but a constant drip is a lot of oil to leak. I tightened it put a white cloth under it to make sure it was OK then a month later... another drip. LOL For all the headaches and pain in the butt reaching under that engine I'd have paid $100 for the right stuff. LOL Live and learn. Good Luck.
 
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Don't use vinyl tubing on the oil lines. You want Tygon. You can order it from Seadoo or OSD Seadoo Parts.
 
For any who follow, I ended up getting 12mm Tygon hose from McMaster-Carr (McMaster-Carr) Part No: 3602N66 (Soft Plastic Tubing for Fuel and Lubricants, 12 mm ID, 15 mm OD, 10 Feet Long)... great service (next day delivery) and perfect fit. Thanks for all the help as always.
 
Thanks for sharing. I hardly ever use that company for Jet Ski supplies. Great info !!
They do every size imaginable, so can also use to change 8mm lines and others I‘m sure… I was reluctant to go that route too as they are not a “jet ski supplier” and I was concerned about delivery but, as I mentioned, they delivered next day… i actually placed the order by phone to make sure I got the right tubing from the myriads on their site… great service.
 
Frustration continues... top end build completed (all back together), but engine very slow to crank with plugs removed (and oil spurts out of the spark plug ports) and won't crank at all with plugs in... almost feels like too much compression is resisting???... or could something be funky with the RAVE valves not opening, so compression builds up???... I refurbished (changed the diaphragms) the RAVE valves, as suggested elsewhere and sprung for a brand new 600A Lithium battery and charged overnight to make sure there's plenty of power, but I'm at a loss as to what to try next?
 
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