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1999 GTI seadoo bogging down

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jcturner21

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Hi,

I am new to this forum. I bought a sea doo a couple of months ago and have had some problems. The most pressing issue is it bogs down. Sometimes I can go 8-10 miles without a problem but then when it starts bogging down at full or close to full throttle it keeps doing it and time to cut the ride and go in to dock. I've removed and inspected the gas tank sending unit and all clear. I've removed and inspected the selector switch and all clear. I've replace the tempo gray fuel lines with the good stuff (forget the name but found it in here). I took the sea doo to a mechanic and he says he looked at the carb and looks good but I have my doubts. Esp when he only charged me $25! Time for me to break into the carb? I wanted to follow a thread placed on here on 06/02/2008 with 4 pdf files with detailed instructions to rebuild carbs but the 1st and 4th file are corrupt and I can't open them. Does anyone have detailed instructions for carb rebuild for this seadoo--717 rotax engine if that info helps.

thanks a lot!
Jim
 
Take the RES or the ON fuel line off the selector and run it straight to the carb inlet with an inline filter in there. See if your problem goes away. I tore my carbs apart a few times only to find my main problem was the fuel selector. I had taken it out and cleaned it but it was still sometimes restricting fuel flow. Put a new selector on and the ski has been running great!
 
Yes, you need to take a look at the carbs., and at the very minimum clean the fuel filters.

Lou
 
Look at the carb adjustments sticky at the top of this forum section. Then also look at the Mikuni SBN manual. (posted lots of time here or google) Once you get the carb off, you just methodically take it all apart. Not much to it really. Do it in a tray so you do not loose anything. You may need an impact driver to remove some screws as they like to strip out the heads. Then clean well with carb cleaner (look at the sticky). Reassemble, set the metering screws per your skis specs and test the popoff if you can.
 
Use the search function in the white box in upper left corner of forum page.
Search:/ Tricks and traps to carb rebuilding \. At bottom of results list you will see posts from this forum. The forum has days of reading on carbs and fuel systems.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
fun times

I rebuilt the carbs on my seadoo. I started it up in the garage no problems and revved it up. Took it out Thursday for last day of Summer lol and it ran fine and revved up ok. I slowed down and then tried to rev it up again but would not rev up. eventually it throttled up--thinking it needed HSA/LSA adjustment. Ran the jet ski awhile longer, and then it eventually died on me completely and I could not get it started. Needed to get towed in. I may have been low on gas. I kept trying to restart and the engine would turn over but would not 'catch'/start. Eventually, after a lot more attempts to start the engine would not turn over anymore and just heard clicking like solenoid was engaging but nothing else. Now what do I have wrong with my ski?! Was all excited about my do it yourself carb rebuild job and now this. ugh! thanks for your help in advance.
 
Does sound like you are not getting fuel to the carbs. Also your battery is dead, and needs to be charged up. Disconnect the battery from the ski before charging. Otherwise you can fry the electronics.
 
the carbs looked ok. The filter 'cup' had a little bit of stuff in it but not too much. I did find what I thought would be an 'extra' part in one of the fuel lines on the carb. It was a metal orifice embedded in the flexible hose itself. I replaced both hoses and thought this might be the source of fuel getting choked off within the carburetor. I also found a bubble when I removed the filter cup and thought this might be water.
 
I did recharge the battery (I disconnected it first) and now with it fully charged still just get a clicking noise and no turnover. Next I will put voltmeter on battery terminals and look to see if voltage drops in half when attempting to start and that will indicated if I need a new starter.
 
I have not gone back and read through all of the posts...
FIrst thing to do is to jump the solenoid. If it cranks, you have a good battery, cables, connections and good starter. If not, then one of those items is bad. To test the solenoid with a meter, put the hot test lead on the trigger wire and ground the other lead. Press the start button with the lanyard on. If the meter shows 12 volts, the solenoid is getting the required volts. Then move the test wire to the output side of the solenoid. Press the switch again, if you gets volts to the the meter, the solenoid is working, if not, then the solenoid needs replaced.


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jcturner21 said:
the carbs looked ok. The filter 'cup' had a little bit of stuff in it but not too much. I did find what I thought would be an 'extra' part in one of the fuel lines on the carb. It was a metal orifice embedded in the flexible hose itself. I replaced both hoses and thought this might be the source of fuel getting choked off within the carburetor. I also found a bubble when I removed the filter cup and thought this might be water.
Click to expand...

Put the fuel in a clear glass jar and let it settle for a couple hours, water will be on the bottom of jar.

Water in fuel won't burn, it displaces fuel and just a little bit makes it hard to get a ski running. Where did this water come from, the 5-gallon can used to fill the ski?

The extra piece in the fuel line sounds like an orifice in either the fuel return line or accelerator pump circuit. I think it needs to be there. Maybe someone who owns one of these skis can expand on this detail.

If an engine won't fire within a few seconds while cranking there's no need to keep cranking. There are cases where you might not expect it to start right away though, for instance if the engine had just been flooded with water or fuel tank had run dry. Instead of continuing to crank, find out what the problem is instead of burning up your starter and/or cranking battery. Take a look at the spark plugs and see if they're wet with fuel, clean them with brake cleaner while they're out and take appropriate actions to rectify observations. If plugs are dry try adding pre-mix fuel from a spray bottle into the carbs intake. A few ounces in both carbs will tell you if the issue is fuel supply related.

Spark, fuel, compression are the basic requirements to have a running engine, if one of these is missing or out of time it's a no-go.
 
checked voltage at battery=~13V, checked voltage at solenoid battery side=~13V, checked voltage at solenoid starter side while pressing start/stop button= 7 or 8V. Bad starter I think. Agree that piece in fuel line prob needs to be there. first pic shows component that was inside hose (HSA needle point to it) second pic is of bubble in the filter location (with filter removed)
IMG_0205.JPGIMG_0195.JPG
 
Are you saying there is a 6 volt drop on the other side of the solenoid? If so, you have a bad solenoid. Jump the post with pliers or screwdriver. That will tell you if you have a bad connection or bad starter.

Also, the 13 volts at the battery. Are those idle/no load volt? What is it when you press the start button?


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That piece may be a restrictor in the return to tank line. Ment to keep fuel pressure up. Somewhere in my travels reading about fuel systems I did see that.
 
I jumped the post and nothing so I will check the fuse but am pretty sure the starter is dead and I have water in my fuel lines. I think I have my problems pinned down.
 
I know. My biggest problem is I bought this thing with never ending problems and now I'm stuck with it.

Well then, what are my seadoo problems? I posted a picture that seemed to show water in the carb in line filter hence the conclusion that I have water in my lines and I can't get the engine to turn over and I have checked the battery and the solenoid and they check out.
 
Post no. 10, that thing you found in the fuel line is the restricter in the return fuel line it needs to be there.

I'll admit that I haven't looked at this thread in a while, but from what I'm reading it sounds that either your motor of pump have seized. The first thing to do is remove the spark plugs, ground the spark plug leads and see if the motor will turn over. If it does it's not seized, you most likely have a weak battery, bad battery cable or a corroded connection.

If the motor doesn't turn over you will need to pull the pump and see if it's the motor or pump that's seized. One other possibility is the starter is jammed.

Lou
 
Yeah man, good eye, a lot of people miss that orifice I bet. I think it needs to be in there, return to tank section of fuel line, right? Will it fit inside the new tubing?

Take the metering diaphragm cover off that carb and see if the fuel chamber is full of water.

There's a ton of help for rebuilding Mikuni carbs all over the web and some of it is good while other advice is maybe not so good. Any problems and someone here will be happy to answer any questions.

I'd get the right needle/seat orifice for you application, and a carb kit and rebuild them while they're off but maybe the real problem is just water in your fuel. Where's the tiny little fuel filter that's supposed to be in that fuel feed (the one with water inside), did you take it out already or did someone neglect to install a new one?

For the fuel metering springs, make sure to use the original ones if they're the right color (probably silver 95gr is the color yours takes, (my guess, need to confirm).

http://www.mikuni.com/pdf/sbn_manual.pdf
http://www.seadoosource.com/carbreference.html
https://www.shopsbt.com/pdfs/mikunisbn.pdf
 
Keep on it. You will find all the problems. Once you get it running right it's good to go for a long time.
You probably paid much less for the ski then a perfect one. I chased a fuel problem for a month and a half. Now My Ski 13 starts first and runs a full Ski lenght ahead of it's exact sister Ski. Parts and time are cheap compared to buying perfect. The more you read the more you know. Don't give up.
 
If I remember correctly the restrictor orifice is supposed to be in the fuel return outlet nipple of the carburetor so it must have become dislodged and wound up in the fuel line.

Lou
 
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