1998 xpl gas tank/ fuel filters/ dirty carb

[Cpt Momo]

Hey guys

My issue started when I took my xpl for a run last week. It would die after 5 seconds or soo with full throttle while in the wate. Couldn't figure out the reason.

Took it for a second opinion and I was told that the cars, fuel filter and the gas tank are the issues.

Not sure what's the process for cleaning the gas tank. I was told it's a hard job and the only solution is to get a new gas tank. Which means I need to remove the entire engine to get the tank out and new one in.

Is that even true?

Any help would be appreciated

 

[JJinSC]

It's a poly tank. Just remove all old content and put fresh gas in. Make sure to get ALL of the old stuff out. You can do this without removing the tank by accessing and removing the fuel baffle via the portal under the seat. Loosen the front pivot bolts of the seat and swing front of seat around to expose the portal with a dome shaped rubber plug in it.

Replace all old fuel lines (Especially if it is gray Tempo line) with new same size line. Clean/replace fuel selector valve. Disassemble and rebuild carbs with only Mikuni OEM kits. Clean and verify correct function of both fuel tank vents. Make sure they are not clogged and working in correct direction. One lets air in but not out and the other one lets pressure over 3lbs out but nothing in. Clean/replace water separator filter.

 

[jdanthony]

:agree:

Give it a shot.. It's not as bad as you think. Take picture before you take things apart so you know where everything goes.

 

[Cpt Momo]

It's a poly tank. Just remove all old content and put fresh gas in. Make sure to get ALL of the old stuff out. You can do this without removing the tank by accessing and removing the fuel baffle via the portal under the seat. Loosen the front pivot bolts of the seat and swing front of seat around to expose the portal with a dome shaped rubber plug in it.

Replace all old fuel lines (Especially if it is gray Tempo line) with new same size line. Clean/replace fuel selector valve. Disassemble and rebuild carbs with only Mikuni OEM kits. Clean and verify correct function of both fuel tank vents. Make sure they are not clogged and working in correct direction. One lets air in but not out and the other one lets pressure over 3lbs out but nothing in. Clean/replace water separator filter.

I just noticed I double post for the same issue. Modes if you kindly merge them please with cherry on top.

The problem with accessing the baffle is: the first production of xpl came without the portal under the seat ... the dome you speak off is sealed ... just a dome that is part of the body/frame. The portal hole was crated in later production to fix a flaw in the design. The first production came with two front hole under the front hood to get air flow. The problem with that was it brings in a big amount of water into the hole. The fix was to close those tow air flows and make the hole under the seat on the same done you speak of

 

[JJinSC]

I have a 97 XP (though not the limited) and the portal is there. Same body just different motor and size tank. It has to be there for maintenance of the fuel baffle.

 

[Cpt Momo]

I have a 97 XP (though not the limited) and the portal is there. Same body just different motor and size tank. It has to be there for maintenance of the fuel baffle.

So just twist rotate the seat to gain access to the portal below the seat ... get the rubber piece off and reach down for the baffle?
Pull the baffle out of there through the rubber portal.

Then what?

 

[JJinSC]

Use siphon pump with tubing to remove all old content from tank.

Replace all old fuel line bring sure to get each line back to the appropriate nipple.

 

[Cpt Momo]

Use siphon pump with tubing to remove all old content from tank.

Replace all old fuel line bring sure to get each line back to the appropriate nipple.

Change the grey fuel lines with new grey fuel lines?

 

[JJinSC]

No. Go to auto parts store and use automotive fuel line of same size.

 

[Mickirig1]

This a new Ski to you? History of it?

 

[Cpt Momo]

No. Go to auto parts store and use automotive fuel line of same size.

The grey lines are not hard ... local recommendation from a buddy of mine that they are fine if they are not hard.

I know that all the PWC forums recommends change change change!

I have a local yamah shop that carries both sizes of black fuel line. I think I'll go ahead and change them

 

[Cpt Momo]

This a new Ski to you? History of it?

It's 1998 ski so it's not new.

I was apart from it for many years sitting at my parents house since 2000

My teenage brother blow the engine sometime in between and sat there for quite sometime.

I Reunited with it last year

New rebuilt engine was put in it

Took it twice and it bogged down on me with full throttle

Carb filters and fuel filter was extreamly dirty after inspection even though they were new with the rebuild

Replaces those but

I'm sick of taking it swimming and it bogs down on me

I'm thinking the selector needs to be canceled

And the fuel lines needs to be replaced with black yamaha lines

 

[Cpt Momo]

Took it swimming to test things out ... first full throttle burst straight line clocked a 60 mph!!!

Slowly seeing the speedometer performance gradually decreases ... 55 mph ... 50 mph .... then 40 mph after a while in a duration of 2 hours? Started bogging down til it refused to turn.

I'll open up the carbs and check the filters again and see what kind of early Christmas present i will be getting.

The only two things left is fuel lines and the fuel selector

Pictures will follow

 

[Cpt Momo]

What I started with before taking the XPL swimming today. Switched the carb filters and the fuel filters.

My hands were a mess and I didn't get the chance to take pictures of the carb filters

I couldn't wait til tomorrow to check the filters

There you go, what I found in the fuel filter after 2 hours of use

 

[mikidymac]

And so your carb filters are plugged again too.

With that much contamination you have to replace the entire strainer, fuel selector and clean the tank.

The 1998 XP parts diagram shows the rubber plug under the seat so it is there.

Just go to the auto parts store and buy 12' of 5/16" standard fuel line and 6' of 1/4".

Don't waste your time and money on the Yamaha stuff.

 

[JJinSC]

And so your carb filters are plugged again too.

With that much contamination you have to replace the entire strainer, fuel selector and clean the tank.

The 1998 XP parts diagram shows the rubber plug under the seat so it is there.

Just go to the auto parts store and buy 12' of 5/16" standard fuel line and 6' of 1/4".

Don't waste your time and money on the Yamaha stuff.

What he said.

 

[Cpt Momo]

And so your carb filters are plugged again too.

With that much contamination you have to replace the entire strainer, fuel selector and clean the tank.

The 1998 XP parts diagram shows the rubber plug under the seat so it is there.

Just go to the auto parts store and buy 12' of 5/16" standard fuel line and 6' of 1/4".

Don't waste your time and money on the Yamaha stuff.

I do have a another strainer/filter i bought with the new one i just installed ... I'll wash that one I have on now as I don't think it needs to be replaced after 2 hours of use. Unless you are actually talking about the container that screw on?

I'm thinking of canceling the fuel selector but I'll decide when I open it up.

Planning on cleaning the tanks but a friend is betting that cleaning the tank won't resolve the problem as it's impossible to clean due to its location and I need to replace the whole gas tank!

Since im not convinced with gas tank replacement. I will be unscrewing seat and swirl it a side to access the baffle from the rubber plug. Pull the baffle and get a hose down to pull what's left from the gas (quarter tank left)

What else do I need to do? Can you explain "cleaning the tank" from your side?

Why not the black yamaha fuel lines? I think the yamaha store is actually using automotive fuel lines, they are not marked. I think it's about a $1 a foot for the yamaha and they carry both sizes which I have to check to match the numbers you provided.

 

[Cpt Momo]

Removed the entire seat to gain access to the baffle and drain the gas

Removed the baffle and it looks pretty old and due for a change. I'll be visiting the seadoo dealership to see of they carry any

Looking down the gas tank was a big black tar piece sitting at the button of the tank

I decided on canceling the fuel selector

Removing the grey lines for now

Going to pressure wash the tank from the inside as an attempt to break down that black gunk and then sucking it out with a wet vacum

 

[mikidymac]

Looking on the corrosion on the fuel selector you need to replace it. It is old enough that the outside looks that bad the inside is bad too. The rubber part inside gets old and hard and leaks air causing the engine to run lean and seize. Do yourself a favor and spend a little now instead of a lot later.

At $1 per foot go with the yamaha stuff. I think it is $1.25 at autozone.

Your friend is crazy to replace the tank unless it is actually cracked.

 

[JJinSC]

If that baffle is in working order including float and fuse. I would clean that sucker real good and use it.

 

[Mickirig1]

Get a suction gun to get the stuff out. Looks like the old style grease guns without the pump. It has a pull handle at one end and the tubing to suck on the other end. Maybe use a baby bottle brush on a rod. Stir up the stuff, suck it out.

 

[Cpt Momo]

Get a suction gun to get the stuff out. Looks like the old style grease guns without the pump. It has a pull handle at one end and the tubing to suck on the other end. Maybe use a baby bottle brush on a rod. Stir up the stuff, suck it out.

Thats a great idea ... i had the brush/rod on stand by if the the pressure washer wasn't enough to knock that stuff out.

Pressure washer was a success ... it knocked what was stuck on there pretty good and drained the whole thing

Looking on the corrosion on the fuel selector you need to replace it. It is old enough that the outside looks that bad the inside is bad too. The rubber part inside gets old and hard and leaks air causing the engine to run lean and seize. Do yourself a favor and spend a little now instead of a lot later.

At $1 per foot go with the yamaha stuff. I think it is $1.25 at autozone.

Your friend is crazy to replace the tank unless it is actually cracked.

I wasn't able to find it locally so I pulled it out and probably just put the selector to close the wholes on the hull til I find one and see if it's worth replacing.

I thought the idea of replacing the whole thing insane. I know it didn't sound right and needed a little problem solving

Bought enough yamaha black fuel line for the 96xp and the 98xpl. Replacing them was a great investment.

If that baffle is in working order including float and fuse. I would clean that sucker real good and use it.

The baffle was in working order and just ended up replacing then filter/screen at the button with another slightly used and better condition that the one originally there. I still blocked up the new baffle for a $100 for backup down the road

 

[Cpt Momo]

All assembled, replaced the fuel lines and ready to go swimming.

First 15 minutes in was great, til I did a 360 and it stopped. Couldn't get it back up. Tested few things while I was in the water but I couldn't figure out what was wrong with. The battery died trying to fire it up again.

Took it home and charged the battery. With further inspection and:

Went and picked up the full elements (male and female) to replace then pins on them

I need to be done with it already to focus on the 96xp

I also found a 98GSXl for about 500-600 dollar in excellent condition. Need to get the batteries charged to get an hr read on it. I'm already playing musical chairs with money to get it of all lines up for a $400 dollar. I have about a month to decide and by then I'll have both my xpl and xp on working order.

 

[Cpt Momo]

Replaced all the pins and I was good to go to get it wet.

30 minutes in, the buzzer went off (temprature)

Pulled it off and I had to clean that little elbow joint that feeds the engine with water.

Took git it back in the water (on the trailor) to check the water posse. It wasn't full streaming like it does when flushing it.

Released it from the trailer and took it for a quarter tank ride or till the engine sounded funny... poped the hood and there was a hole on my tray!!! Lifted the tray and there was a screw missing!!!!!!

 

[Cpt Momo]

Elbow cleaned which resolved the heat/constant buzzer

The hole in the try from the poped off bolt

RAVE Hose split

Missing bolt