1998 seadoo sportster engine install help

[VERDUGO135]

So I decided to tackle this project on my own. At first I was a bit intimidated but most shops are backed up and I don't want the summer passing by. So long story short bought the boat missing complete port side engine and accessories. Bought a 95 xp and pulled the engine and all necessary parts from that ski and dropped it into the boat. Soooo first thing, the muffler/exhaust fits, although its not the correct muffler for the boat. Aside from not being the correct muffler is there any reason why I can't use the xp muffler, ie; performance difference between both engines? Next question is the carbs, thats where I'm really stuck. The original starboard engine has a single carb. The xp engine has dual. I'm guiding myself off of the starboard engine as I install all the hoses but both carbs are completely different. I have two hoses but there is only one input on the dual carb setup unlike the single where there are two inputs. Also which hose goes where? I've included some pictures, thanks in advance for your help.

this is the starboard engine with original single carb, you can see the two hoses connecting into the carb

here is the port engine which im installing, the carbs are dual and there is only one input, or so thats the way it was on the ski. i drew in some numbers for easy viewing.

Last thing is if anyone knows where the oil pump is on these engines. Do I only have one pump for my boat and where can I find it? I want to make sure its working properly. The previous owner had no idea why his original port engine blew a rod I want to make sure everything is in ship shape before I take it out on the water. Thank you.

 

[ocod]

Look at the picture. FF is on the right. The last hose going down shows it going into the hose coming out of the "Y". Your return should be around there. Why not use your old single intake/carb? That is where your oil pump is unless current intake for dual carb opening is blocked off w/oval plate. Then it's on pre mix. You need to install pump with gear.
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/seadooforums/Seadoo_oem/Seadoo_PWC.asp?Type=13&A=38&B=18

You really need manual if you are not familiar w/what your are doing. Its helps immensely.

You are missing something on the carbon ring. The black rubber ribbed boot that drive shaft goes through. In the 2nd pic

 

[VERDUGO135]

Sorry to sound dumb but I didnt understand much of what you said. I tried going through the xp shop manual but couldn't find anything in specific on the hoses, just says remove fuel lines, install fuel lines, etc. When I got the boat it had NOTHING on the port side. Only thing there was the water box, jet pump, and drivershaft. Everything else was gone. I'd like to go pre-mix on this boat. How would I do that with my current setup. As for your last comment on me missing something. The driveshaft isn't installed yet. The engine is just "mocked" up for now.

 

[ocod]

did you look at link? it shows you the lines coming from filter to twin carb.

Is the other engine on pre mix now? Guess you are taking intakes off again :ack:

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/seadooforums/Seadoo_oem/Seadoo_JB.asp?Type=13&A=36&B=10

Could explain why carbon ring missing clamp. Your still on mock up.

A lot has been written here on pre mix and some videos on shobsbt.com

 

[VERDUGO135]

I just read a couple of articles and saw a video on going pre-mix. If possible I'm going to stick to the oil pump. I'm pretty sure both engines still have the pumps installed but now that I know exactly where to look it should be a bit easier. Lets see what happens tomorrow.

 

[ocod]

you could premix 40:1. 32 oz to 10 gallons just in case pumps fail b/c lines weren't changed or to make sure pump is working. No sense in cooking a motor

you can see pump in you first pic. and those little lines should be changed.

 

[VERDUGO135]

Can I simply block off the lines to the oil pump? Is it required to remove the pump and put in the block off plate when you go pre-mix?

Reason I said I would stick to the pumps is because some members recommend keeping the oil pump system if there is nothing wrong with since it is more economic and causes less smoke.

 

[VERDUGO135]

you can see pump in you first pic. and those little lines should be changed.

in the first pic i can see the lines that need to be changed, they look pretty old. what about on the engine that im swapping in. should these be changed as well (check insert picture)? they look to be in a lot better condition than the starboard engine. let me kno thank you.

 

[ocod]

NO sense in replacing one side. Do the other to be safe. lines get brittle and/or clog

 

[VERDUGO135]

What's a good place to get these hoses?

 

[ocod]

Hobby store iirc and they come clear so you see oil flowing.

 

[VERDUGO135]

Ok so I figured out the fuel and return input lines on the carb but I ran into yet another problem. The original sportster engine has a fuel pump that sits on a bracket bolted onto the magneto. That fuel pump has an input from the filter and two outputs. One output goes to the input on the carb. The other goes directly into the engine. Now on the dual carb setup on the engine from the xp there was no fuel pump. I bought the fuel pump (will be here tomorrow) but after closer inspection the fuel system seems different. There is a small hose that goes from one of the carbs directly into the engine which is where the hose from the fuel pump should go. Here are some pictures.

Here is the original sportster engine with fuel pump attached

Here is the engine from the seadoo, no fuel pump yet.

 

[Dr Honda]

On the XP motor... The front carb has the pump built into it, and it feeds both carbs. So... You don't need an external fuel pump for that engine. just put the fuel line from the "tank" to the nipple that is on the bottom of the MAG carb, on the same side as the throttle cable. Then, your return line will be hooked to the "Y" connector by the PTO carb.

 

[Dr Honda]

I see that you were talking about the oil system too.

Yes... a hobby shop is a good place to buy the oil injection hose. You need "Medium" (3/16") Tygon hose. Do not get the silicon hose that they also sell. (It's not petroleum safe)

While servicing the system... replace the oil filters, and make sure that the nipples at the manifold are clear. If the engine has been backfiring, then they may be plugged with cooked oil.

 

[VERDUGO135]

Once again Dr Honda to the rescue. Thanks a lot boss. You and Ocod are lifesavers.

 

[ocod]

I had such a brain fart and I just went through it.
I had the answer but couldn't make sense of it.
Boat<---->Jetski<------->Boat


Post it when you get boat fired up. You got boat missing engine? Did you get get deal?

 

[VERDUGO135]

I see that you were talking about the oil system too.

Yes... a hobby shop is a good place to buy the oil injection hose. You need "Medium" (3/16") Tygon hose. Do not get the silicon hose that they also sell. (It's not petroleum safe)

While servicing the system... replace the oil filters, and make sure that the nipples at the manifold are clear. If the engine has been backfiring, then they may be plugged with cooked oil.

I got the medium tygon but its 3/32 not 3/16... Am I good. Also how do I clamp it down? Zip tie? Thanks.

 

[ocod]

I got the medium tygon but its 3/32 not 3/16... Am I good. Also how do I clamp it down? Zip tie? Thanks.

or two ties

 

[VERDUGO135]

just realized you highlighted zip ties... Never mind, lol.

 

[ocod]

everything you need is in here. could find other instruction from dr
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?40380-Carburetor-Adjustments&highlight=throttle+adjustment