1997 XP 787 No Start / gash in hull

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Agreed, the seadoo system is very reliable and much easier than premix.

Plus you still have to run oil to your rotary valve gear anyways.

Premix would be 40:1.

Westside Powersports seadoo can hook you up with everything you would need to go back to oil injection.
 
I wonder how much advertising Nick and Jess actually have to spend money on. I swear we plug them half a dozen times every day on the forum here... To be honest, I can’t believe they can find enough scrap skis to keep the flow of used parts coming... They’ve been a huge resource for all of us though, so they deserve every bit of support they can get.
 
Took the ski out for a 20 minute ride for the first time. Do these spark plugs look alright? I need to turn my idle up a bit and adjust the trim then I'm going back out. Any input would be appreciated.
 

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One plug looks okay, but I really don’t like the white deposits on the other, and it looks like it’s had some mechanical damage to me... Did you gap these before you put them in? And that one plug wasn’t bent?
 
Both plugs were gapped yesterday at .021 inches. Both brand new. Those arent white deposits on the one. Some of the black soot on the terminal flaked off so that's the metal you're looking at. I'm not sure what mechanical damage you're seeing but I think you're just seeing the flakes of soot coming off.
 
Okay, now that I’ve zoomed in a ton I can tell it’s just the angle of the picture. In that second photo it looked like the strap was bent... You’re definitely rich, but you need to get your idle rpm set before you tweak anything. Did you idle through a no wake zone or anything towards the end of that 20 minute ride?
 
The first and last 5 minutes or so to and from the dock is no wake. I couldn't idle because it felt like it would die and I didnt want to risk not being able start again on the water lol.

Speaking of not starting... I put it back in the water about 45 minutes after the first trip was done so it was definitely still pretty warm and it wouldnt start. I tried until I noticed the battery getting weak (10 minutes) and gave up. I dont know what the problem was.
 
Well you’re going to get some oil fouling after going through longer sections of no wake zone since you’re running premix, but there’s nothing we can do about that until you put an oil pump back on it. Where do you have your low speed adjusters set to on the carbs? You might need to go a bit leaner to smooth the idle out and give it an easier time starting...
 
Well you’re going to get some oil fouling after going through longer sections of no wake zone since you’re running premix, but there’s nothing we can do about that until you put an oil pump back on it. Where do you have your low speed adjusters set to on the carbs? You might need to go a bit leaner to smooth the idle out and give it an easier time starting...

When i had the carbs out, I reset the low speed screw to the specs called out in the shop guide (1 turn out). Before I readjusted them, one screw was set to about 1.5 turns out and the other was set to about 1 turn. I cannot remember which carb was set to what.

I have a new fuel petcock ordered since mine is obviously shot now (whoops). I want to pressure test my fuel lines once that gets installed to make sure I dont have any leaks. Should be going in Friday or Saturday. Any tips for testing fuel lines?
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Just to circle back on this, did you ever rebuild the carbs with all new Mikuni parts?
 
Just to circle back on this, did you ever rebuild the carbs with all new Mikuni parts?
I did not rebuild them. I took them out and took them apart to see how corroded they were, and to check the thimble filters. The carbs looked pretty clean and the thimble filters were in perfect condition. I sprayed carb cleaner in each of the small jet holes inside using the straw to direct the stream into them.

Obviously I want to spend as little money as possible, and with all the other issues I dont want to spend ~$100 on a carb kit if that isn't my issue.

I still dont get beeps every time I plug in the DESS. Sometimes it works, and sometimes it doesn't. I cant find a rhyme or reason as to why it wont beep sometimes. Even if it doesn't beep, it will turn over and start up every time (except yesterday when it was in the water and the engine was hot).

This weekend I would like to charge the battery and test the electrical system with my multimeter.
 

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I am going to say this once. Carb kits, carb kits, carb kits and yes carb kits.
Fuel pump could be leaking since you didn't replace the paper gasket.
Could have wrong springs, bad diaphragm, leaking needle and seat, LS transition ports.

The symptoms you are now having points directly to the carbs.
 
So you believe it wouldnt hot start because it was flooded due to leaking carb?
Could it also be an out of tolerance rotary valve making it too lean?
 
Yes, carbs.

The rotary valve will cause very hard or no starting. It will not cause the ski to be lean.
 
No, absolutely not! Those are the aftermarket carb kits that everyone says to stay away from... Go to OSD Parts and order one of their “Back to OEM” kits. I know they aren’t cheap, but they are far less expensive than buying the aftermarket one, still having problems, and then having to buy the correct one anyways...
 
The OSD ones above are correct. If the accelerator pump is not squirting you might need to add the accelerator pump diaphragm.
 
Thanks! I could have swore that one was a genuine Mikuni kit.

My accelerator pump is definitely working for both carbs.
 
Thanks! I could have swore that one was a genuine Mikuni kit.

My accelerator pump is definitely working for both carbs.

It happens a lot. The easiest giveaway is the price. If it isn't at least $50 per carb it isn't Genuine Mikuni parts.
 
Ahhh....careful there.....it says Dual mikuni carb kit.....does not say Genuine MIKUNI OEM parts kit.....'effin subtle advertising tricks.....if it's not GENUINE back to OEM Mikuni...you are wasting your time and money....eat the bullet, you'll thank yourself in the morning....I learned the hard way...we are trying to spare you the aggravation...

WILL the parts all fit....yep...will they work as you expect/hope......most likely not so much! IT A'INT WORTH it if you have to pull everything out again AND spend the money twice....and do it all over again....
 
As I’ve said several times recently, you’re either a member of the Genuine Mikuni parts cult, or you will soon be initiated... Every person who yells at you to only buy that stuff has had the personal experience of buying the cheap stuff, and then chasing a problem down, only to spend the money on the OEM stuff in the end. It’s really easy to lose half a summer chasing your tail until you finally become a convert!
 
1997 Sea-Doo XP, 5662 Fuel System | Sea-Doo Warehouse

Could one of my issues be the fuel check valve (#37) and pressure relief valve (#18) not functioning? I was looking through the Carburetor adjustment sticky and found this excerpt; "A common cause is a carburetor needle(s) & seat(s) leaking fuel into the cylinders causing a hard to start condition when motor is hot. How can gas get past a needle valve other than what I have talked about? One way is if the fuel tank pressure release check valve in the OUT vent line thru rub rail is not functioning. The fuel pressure in the tank overcomes the spring tension on the needle valve and gas is FORCED past it. The valve should open at approx. 3-5lbs. psi."

I replaced all the fuel lines except the breather lines because they dont have fuel running through them so I didnt think they would affect carb/fuel function. This breather line has a T where it goes out the side of the hull and the top of the hull kind of by the handle bars. If these arent functioning, they could be the cause of my no start when hot due to flooding! I believe the carbs are good so I would like to try this before doing a carb rebuild.
Thoughts, concerns?
 
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