1997 seadoo GTX Not Starting...Driving me Crazy

[dadamso1]

Hello All. My first post here. I have been using the site for a while now trying to diagnose and fix my machine. Anyways, I have just rebuilt the carbs and set the pop-off pressures between 25 and 30 PSI. I replaced rave valves that were broken in the corners, and I replaced all fuel lines. I just put a new battery in and took it out on saturday. Before I left for the lake, the boat started right up on the trailer. When I got to the lake it started up right before it went in the water. I put the boat in the water and it started right up and ran good for about 10-15 min. I came back in and picked up my wife then went and rode for about another 10 min. Then headed back in to pick up one of our friends. When we went to head back out it wouldn't start. AHHHHHHHH. It just kept turning over, but not firing. The 12V low warning light was on, but it was on when we got to the lake for some reason. By the way, I do not seem to ever get the 2 beeps from the DESS post. After trying to get it started for a few min, I just let it sit for about 10 min. Then trying again...it started to fire but very sparadiac and still not running. Eventually, it did start and I rode it around for a good 10 min or so. Shut it off and it started right up. After it sat though for about 5 min...it wouldn't start again. Eventually the battery just did from me getting angry and just trying to start it.

I don't know what the problem is, whether is electrical, bad rectifier or what. I just rebuilt the carbs, because the seadoo dealer here that I had do a diagnosis on it said that it was just simply not getting fuel. Well I rebuilt and it seems to be running fine when it is started...no bog or anything.

Please help me. I am at the end of my rope here. Thanks!!!

Dan----Michigan

 

[greasolution]

Ive got two 91 Sea Doo XP's with the same issue. Usually start cold but have more trouble restarting once warm... compression is good, new plugs, wires, fuel system clean. Driving me crazy too. Crank crank crank sputter sputter stall... in Michigan also.

 

[6KJR]

Ive read somewhere that if your rotary valve clearance is getting out of wack it can cause hard start conditions when warm. However, Im not sure if each of your problems would be the same. If you get a shop manual you can go through the steps on testing individual components to track down weather its electrical, or mechanical. It takes some time but saves you a lot in dealer costs if you do these things yourself...

 

[dadamso1]

Anybody else have any suggestions!