1997 GTX Water in Hull

[LoyolaCub68]

One downfall is the cyl and piston are matched, so if they are not scuffed and in nice shape it might be a cheaper option to fix...hard call.

That's what I was thinking. My understanding with the new cylinder jugs is that I'd have to replace the pistons as well. Once I have it apart I'll have a better idea when I bring it to the shop. The place I bring it to is usually pretty reasonable.

Do you have any pistons as well that are matched to some cylinder heads?

 

[LoyolaCub68]

I just got the top end opened up and to me the cylinders look to be in decent shape. I was getting good compression and don't see any scuffing or gouges in the cylinder wall. The domes have no pitting and look to be in good shape as well. The main issues other than the crack is how corroded the cylinder head covers are. There are salt deposits everywhere, which might explain why the block was unable to drain since the drain is probably clogged. The top cover needs to be replaced for sure, the dome cover probably could just use a cleaning.

Regarding the crack, it does not appear to have affected the cylinder wall at all. Once I have everything completely out I think the water jacket can be welded.

What gasket kit do I need to buy to reassemble everything? Also, since the ski was used in the ocean when I was told it hadn't been, what else should I check on as far as corrosion in the water system?

Thanks.

 

[kicker]

OEM Top-end Kit part #290 886 395

-includes new base gaskets (3 different thicknesses
- head to head cover gaskets
-o-rings and exhaust pipe and manifold gasket
- rave valve gaskets

I bought an OEM kit a year ago for about $80

There are cheaper ones out there if you prefer
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/SeaDoo-787-T...raft_Parts&hash=item4ac5d63a71&vxp=mtr&_uhb=1

 

[kicker]

Try Minnetonka4me on that head cover, he probably has a good one there.