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1997 GTX 787 stator problem

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npd4432

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Well for my first post this may be long but, here is the situation as I wanted some advise after using the search feature extensively and learning alot.

Here we go: I am somewhat familier with two stroke stuff as I mostly work on outboards but am not new to SeaDoos as I have previously owned a 1997 XP and a 1997 Speedster, but the wife and kids needed some slower and more gentle stuff.

I am working on a 1997 GTX 787 for a friend that is not too boat savy and only knows how to work on cars. He was out in the water on this ski in the summer, probably around august. His battery was dead and the ski barely started, he continued to ride, ignoring the low volt warning on the display. After riding for about 30-45 minutes he said he hit a small wake and the ski died. He brought it back to his shop and began to tinker with it and discovered the 5 amp fuse in the mpem was blown. When he replaced it, it blew again. After doing this again he disconnected the connector to the stator and trigger (8 pin connector) on the stator/flywheel cover and inserted the fuse and it did not blow, leading me to believe the stator was cooked due to his ignorance.

Yesterday I took the cover apart following the service manual and visually inspected the stator and trigger. There were some metal shavings and the stator did not look burnt. I then ohm tested and continuity tested to ground as per the service manual. it showed no resistance(0.00) through all of the stator windings and there was no continuity to the ground. It seemed as if the stator was tesing good. I then tried to replecate his test with the 5 amp fuse and the problem was still there. I then disconnected the rectifier and it still blew the fuse. I would assume I need a stator but want some advice before spending the $$$ if possible.

Oh yea, to add insult to injury when the ski was in his shop laid up between after this happened and now, his shop got about 6 feet of flood water from when the Susquehanna River flooded in September. The ski was on the trailer, but the rear petcocks were open and it took on some flood water which left behind a good coating of flood mud which I have cleaned out, but the mpem box and the rear coil pack box were left open and took on some water.

Everything seems to be intact from the flood as the same problem persists. Hope I could get it running with some help before summertime. Thanks, Mike.
 
did he try to jump start it?

that motor is known for having major trigger coil problems. did you test it? it should have 190-300 ohm resistance between the yellow/white and black/yellow wires and not grounded.
 
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Trigger tested out fine with the ohm test. I cannot remember what the exact # was but it was near 270 from what I recall, but it fell within specs of the shop manual. I also disconnected the trigger from the 8 pin connector and tried to connect it and it still blew the fuse so I think I could eliminate that possibility.

He may have jumped it with a battery pack, but I do not think so, from what he told me the battery was low and barely started the ski, low volt light was on the entire time he was riding, turned it off and on several times throughout the time he was riding and all of a sudden, kaput when he hit a small wake, then the blown fuse problem.

Also I am not getting any gauges or instrumentation to even crank the motor, just the blown fuse.
 
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are you sure it is the 5A fuse? and not the 15A fuse? or they did not get switched? the 5A fuse only controls the gauges, try disconnecting the red/purple, black/red two wire connector that goes to the infocenter, it's just outside the box.

jumping with a battery pack is fine but jumping with a running car with fry the MPEM.
 
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I will try that, I am not sure if the fuses were transposed in this mess but it is possible. I could not find in the operators manual or the service manual which fuse goes where as they are not marked on the mpem or anywhere in the manuals. As they are now, the 15 A fuse in in the slot closest to the short side(bottom) of the mpem and the 5 amp is near the top or the long side. I will get a pic when I get home.
 
This may be way off base but just for tricks try unplugging the VTS, a shorted VTS can cause the fuse to blow. It's probably not that simple but it won't cost you a thing to try.

Lou
 
I just checked the 97GSX wiring diagram, it has a VTS and it's a 7.5A fuse anyway so excuse the post.

Lou
 
out of the machine? you removed the trigger coil? well, then check to see that the mounting bracket is an open circuit with the wires.

sure sounds like a stator/pickup problem if it blows when the mag connector is connected but normally you can find out exactly where by resistance checks.

no VTS on GTX models.
 
skidoo is correct with ohm readings, and even in the shop manual i just read that the stator still can be bad even if ohms out good, thats what happened to my ski, check the wires where it goes in case, mine had a shield covering them, they ground out there sometimes, but, if it doesnt blow when u un plug the stator, chances are its bad, --- diconect harness where the stator wires goes o mpem, then check all 3 charging wires (white) and see if they are grounded then, if not, the stator is grounding and blowing fuse
 
I have the entire stator/pickup cover removed from the machine I tested the pickup and stator when removed. I connected the 8 pin connector when connected to the engine and it blows the fuse, I also tried to connect the 8 pin connector when the housing is not in contact with the engine and sitting on the fiberglass of the ski and it still pops the fuse. When the 8 pin connector is not attached to the housing, it does not blow the fuse.
 
also check then there is a 3 white wires, check them against the black wire, should be no continuity, also against the metal part the windings are wrapped around, should have no continuity
 
Not blowing the 5 amp fuse when the stator cover is unplugged is normal. It has to do with the black wire going into the cover. You will find that if you remove the black wire from the plug, then plug the other wires into the cover, the 5 amp fuse will not blow. Everything I have read here leads me believe that you are dealing with a shorted MPEM.
 
I have the entire stator/pickup cover removed from the machine I tested the pickup and stator when removed. I connected the 8 pin connector when connected to the engine and it blows the fuse, I also tried to connect the 8 pin connector when the housing is not in contact with the engine and sitting on the fiberglass of the ski and it still pops the fuse. When the 8 pin connector is not attached to the housing, it does not blow the fuse.


This does say alot. I dont know for sure if its for sure a stator, but I would have a hard time believing it would blow a fuse not getting ground from the motor when you plugged in the 6pin connector (its not 8)

I am fairly sure that ebox is getting ground strictly from the stator harness. It shouldnt blow a fuse if the box has no ground.

If you need a stator let me know...I have some that are a bit dirty for $75, up to a super mint one with the good pickup bracket for $130.

And LOU....GTX not GSX....send me the rest of your :chillpill: your fired...lol
 
This does say alot. I dont know for sure if its for sure a stator, but I would have a hard time believing it would blow a fuse not getting ground from the motor when you plugged in the 6pin connector (its not 8)

I am fairly sure that ebox is getting ground strictly from the stator harness. It shouldnt blow a fuse if the box has no ground.

If you need a stator let me know...I have some that are a bit dirty for $75, up to a super mint one with the good pickup bracket for $130.

And LOU....GTX not GSX....send me the rest of your :chillpill: your fired...lol

Well after reading this along with everything else I decided to re test everything I have in the past now knowing the ground to the mpem comes from the black wire on the stator harness and the stator cover must be connected to the motor to get ground. I hit my tester on the voltage side of the 5 amp fuse that was popping, with 6 pin harness connected, stator and cover connected to the engine I ground my tester to the grounding post in the mpem. Got 13 volts from the battery. Then, I disconnected the stator and cover from the engine, left the 6 pin harness connected and was careful to make sure the stator and cover were not touching any ground. Meter read 0.14 volts, no ground and fuse not blowing when inserted. So to isolate the stator, I disconnected the 6 pin harness and ran a wire from the battery negative(ground) and jumped it to the ground post in the mpem, then tested for voltage in the 5 amp fuse, again got 13 volts. Now I inserted the fuse and it blew again, leading me to believe my problem is the mpem, NOT the stator as I thought.

So how bout some input on my tests and if all agree my problem is the MPEM, let me know if anyone has an MPEM for this machine for sale with a lanyard programmed. The part # on the MPEM is 278-001-200.
 
OK yup if it blows when you have the ebox ground connected with the extra wire and the Stator wasnt plugged in....its the MPEM.

It could have been fried by a jumpstart a long time ago...burned the resistor or whatever almost all the way out, and the jarring hit made it come apart.

We had a lightening strike hit the house a few years ago and zapped out everything hooked to the phone line...except one SAT box. I opened it up and it fried the hell out of it...but it worked. And it kept working for a few months. Then one day...dead.
 
What causes the MPEM to fry when jump started? Why doesn't the fuse protect the computer? Next time the battery is dead, what is the best method of starting the machine to avoid any problems (yea I know get a good battery). Any recomendations for a good battery that wont go dead all the time. Can I put a trickle charger(battery tender) on the battery when it is installed in the ski or should it be removed to protect the MPEM? Just some questions to avoid any future problems and know how the machine works. Thanks again, Mike.
 
There is a diode in there that is quite sensitive.

You can jump with a battery as long as that machine isnt running. The jump packs are debatable.

Typically its the chargers that have the 50amp start function that wipe them out, along with hooking up the battery backwards. A fuse can only blow so fast...so damage can be done before it blows.

Trickle chargers arent an issue although I recommend a good charger. The Optimate 4 is a great investment.

I typically unhook the positive wire just as a precaution...it shouldnt do any damage, but I dont need a customer's MPEM go bad.
 
Great, thanks a ton. Just looked up and orderd the optimate 4, much nicer than my battery tender. Any recomendations for a battery?
 
I have always had good luck with Interstate batteries, but I dont know if they are nationwide or not.

Whatever you buy will last a heck of a lot longer using the Optimate!
 
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