1997 gsi

[jwall116]

Hello Seadoo forum !

I just purchased my first Ski, after owning a boat for a few years I decided to expand my fleet. Can you please tell me what my ski is worth and things to look out for?

I picked up a 1997 Seadoo GSI with trailer for $800. We are in the 40's so I did not water test but did perform a compression test and ran the ski. Compression was 130 on both jugs on a cold day, no added oil and throttle closed. I'm reading online that some of these are 150 PSI ?? Compression test was done with both plugs out, and grounded. Using a cheap compression gauge from Harbor Freight....

The VTS is inop, hear a clicking sound but no motor movement. Fuse is NOT popped and no corrosion on motor. Will test motor for operation next.

The hull is in great condition, no deep scratches or gouges. Pads are in great condition as is the seat.

Fuel gauge and trim do not indicate any level... guessing the float failed. Shows 212 hours on the meter, and was told engine was rebuilt last season by a local seadoo shop. The rebuild was done by the previous owner before the person I bought it from.

Reading online that the idle out of water should be 3000RPM?? Currently it's at 2000, but is it worth adjusting before a water test can be done?

 

[Coastiejoe]

Lower your winch and install a bow stop on the pillar.

VTS. Chances are your module is bad. If you test your motor and it is good, then you need a module assume your fuses are good. They fail often. Until you do fix it, unplug BOTH the module and the motor ad they seem to damage the MPEM (Braun that runs the ski) for some reason.

Someone else just posted about their gauge being inop. I posted likes for them. I'll try to find them and post them for you as well.

Compression test should be with throttle wide open. Then repost your numbers.

 

[jwall116]

Thank you for the response !

Next question. Noticed oil puddles in bilge everyday. Found the problem. Looks like someone forgot loctite. What am I in for to fix this ?

There are 3 volts missing. Guessing that's the rotary valve cover ??

 

[jwall116]

I redid the compression test wot. With my harbor freight gauge I got 135-140 bouncing needle while cranking. When I stopped the gauge went to 130 and has a slow leak.

 

[mikidymac]

That is the magneto cover not the rotary cover in your picture.
I would guess that your compression is fine and that the Harbor Freight gauge is just not great. Who would have guessed from a Harbor Freight tool? LOL.

1. Where is your oil leaking from?
2. What oil are you using?
3. As Coastie said do not run the ski with any of the VTS plugs connected. THe module goes bad and can't be fixed and they do fry your computer.
4. The fuel gauge is probably either the float of the F1 fuse.
5. Looks like you are also missing a carb support bracket bolt on the head.

 

[jwall116]

I received the ski with it full of fresh gas and full of oil. Oil appears to be blue/green in color. Seller told me it came from a seadoo dealership.

I am trying to hunt down the oil leak. I spent a good hour cleaning the entire hull under the engine. When I woke up there was a small puddle in bilge. Will investigate a little further.

Looking at a diagram the mag cover doesn't have any oil in it. I will replace the bolts on the cover

My hunch is that the leak is from one of the return lines. I didn't see any oil residue on the back side of motor under the exhaust. The fitting is dry but it is difficult to fully inspect

How do I inspect the big line going to the oil pump. I can't even feel where it connects it so damn tight in there.

 

[mikidymac]

Well, the bad news it that any blue or green oil has a 99.9% chance of being TCW-3 oil and is the worst thing you can do for a seadoo in that it is not only not the wrong spec but has also been linked to crank seals leaking.

So this will will help with your oil leak too....

Most of the time the leak is from the rubber grommet on the bottom of the oil tank. They get old and leak and are only about $10 to replace but the tank needs to be drained which you need to do anyways to change the oil.

1. Siphon the oil out of the tank.
2. Siphon the oil out of the two 12mm oil lines running under the engine, 1 from the top of the oil tank, 1 from the bottom of the oil tank. Not the 10mm one with the oil filter.
3. Replace the small 3/32" oil lines from the oil pump to the intake manifold if they have any paint on them or if they feel hard. They are 3/32" Tygon fuel hose available and any mower shop.
4. Install a new oil filter $10 with the arrow pointing towards the engine.
5. Install new grommets in the oil tank.
6. Reconnect everything.
7. Install API-TC rated oil.
8. Open the small bleeder screw on the oil pump until you see fresh clean oil coming out. don't overtighten it as they can strip out.
9. Dump a cap full of oil down each carb.
10. Start the engine while holding to oil pump arm wide open. At idle you will see the oil start working it's way through the new 3/32" oil lines. It goes pretty fast as long as you hold the lever wide open. As soon is it reaches the intake and starts smoking shut the ski off and let it cool. Don't let it run too long out of the water.

This is the cheapest and best oil to run in your ski and is available on Amazon.

 

[jwall116]

I was planning on getting rid of the oil in the tank for a known oil that I feel comfortable with. Now I have extra motivation!

I do not feel the large lines as being wet from the tank down. I will double check this when I get home.

Tygon is no issue, I already have it. For the large lines, also use Tygon? Who supplies it that large locally?

How the heck do I get to the oil pump where the hose connects!? The small lines are no issue, but the large lines I cant even see the connection point. Let alone get a clamp on them. Currently have the intake box off, and can see the carb no problem. Same thing for the bleeder, I cant even see the bleeder. Maybe with a mirror?

Anyone use Mystic fully synthetic PWC oil? It runs $24/gallon and is easy to get my hands on at Academy 2 miles from home.

 

[jwall116]

Oil leak is not the grommet from oil tank. It puddles to the front of mag cover. Notice a puddle on back of exhaust side but fitting where line connects doesn't show any oil down side of motor. It's hard to get really good view of that

How do I access the big line attaching the return on oil pump side ? The one that goes almost under the engine.

 

[jwall116]

Anyone?
Have the carb unbolted and pulled to the side. If I remove the manifold does the pump come with and is this the only way to change all lines ?

 

[mikidymac]

There is no reason to replace the large lines or the manifold.
The large lines use small hose clamps with 1/4" drive if I remember correctly. Use a mirror to see them then just feel your way around and check the ends to see if the clamp cut a hole in them.
The only lines you need to replace are the small 3/32" ones.
The hardest one is going to be under the pipe but it can be done.

 

[jwall116]

The point in this is to find my oil leak, which I haven't found yet.

At this point the carb is off of the manifold but not completely disconnected, just set aside.

The feed line looks good, no wet oil anywhere. I keep finding puddles of oil under the engine. With it just sitting, I ave stopped noticing it. Either it only happens when running or it was residual from someone spilling oil.

The puddle I keep seeing which eventually makes its way to the front of the ski starts under the motor. I have the ski with the nose as low as it will go on the trailer.

Supply line is not leaking. Feed lines to the manifold are not leaking. Grommets aren't leaking. What do I look into next?

 

[gortex]

Not sure if you checked but my oil leak was from around the seam on the tank itself.

 

[jwall116]

For the last 2 days. No puddles. And oil is below the seam of the oil tank. There is a noticeable wetness around it. How did you fix ??

 

[gortex]

I pulled the tank out and cleaned it out well. I went around the seal with a soldering gun first and melted seam together . I then sanded it down and used some epoxy around the seam. It was just a few months ago that I did it but I haven't seen any oil since. I had found a few videos on you tube where people were fixing plastic tanks and tried one of them out to see if it would work.

 

[jwall116]

Just checked the seams. Didn't notice anything there but the return on top is very loose.

 

[mikidymac]

If your ski has the 2 piece thank there is a 99.9% chance the seam is leaking. They are crap tanks and if you can find a good used 1 piece one from the older version of your ski that is the way to go.

I have just been buying new ones from seadoo for $100. They have been holding for about 4 years now but I don't expect it to last much longer.

As far as your leak I think you need to clean the engine compartment with SuperClean or Purple Power and get it super clean then you will be able to easily spot a leak.

 

[benjilafouine]

About the oil leak, I have a trick to find where your leak is coming from. Take a strip of shop towels (the blue ones) and slide it gently under the engine with a stick (or a 12 inch ruler) after you cleaned everything. Leave the towel there for a day or two then pull it out. This may help you find your leak as you will find the exact spot where it comes from.

I too have a small leak on mine and I found out that as soon as a bit of oil spilled for 1-2 days, it stops after. A friend of mine thinks he knows where the leak is coming and he told me that as soon as there is less oil pressure in the tubing it would stop, and that's exactly what happened. My ski is in the garage for the winter and it doesn't leak. It leaked maybe one-two tablespoons then stopped. Problem is that I will have to take the exhaust out to fix this. Not worth it I guess.

Benji.

 

[WhiskeyD]

If the oil is leaking from your mag cover its your crank seals that are leaking. Hopefully its just the oil tank though!

 

[jwall116]

Nothing out of mag cover ! Just missing bolts.

 

[WhiskeyD]

It looks like the crank seals are leaking to me. If its the tank leaking, you'll have oil running down everything thats lower than the oil tank.

 

[jwall116]

Now you are scaring me!

I have cleaned the engine bay very well and haven't seen any new oil in a day.

Crank seals ... would it leak only when running ? Any way to check them

 

[jwall116]

Grommet was soaking wet with oil. Draining tank and will change those out. Will also use the soldering gun to seal the seams of tank along with an epoxy for good measure. Anyone every try seal all ? It's a gas tank sealant you can buy from Home Depot.

Now for bleeding the oil line. I can't see the bleed valve on the oil pump. Some sort of trick to opening it to bleed the line ?

And the oil I removed was blue. Looks like pennzoil or Walmart twc3. Will be changing that over to mystic API-tc.

 

[jwall116]

As for the grommets. I found a part # of 293720008 for the 90 degree elbow. No number for the grommet for oil level sensor. Some descriptions say sensor grommet for this part number. Which is correct ? Same part got both??

 

[jwall116]

Removed the oil tank today. Looks to be in great shape actually. No cracks.
Will likely go around the seal all around the tank with the soldering iron to seal the lip.

When it comes to bleeding the system. Can't exactly see the bleed screw. How is it done ? Mirrors ?

These definitely take a fitness to work on ! My outboard is a lot more complex but easy access to everything. I'm learning a lot about this ski for years to come.