1996 speedster w/ couple problems

[100dollarbill]

Hi there,
I'm new to the forum. I picked up a 96 speedster a few weeks ago. The PO started it up for me on the trailer and it ran (I now know that's not the same as in the water). Brought it to our house on Lake Hopatcong in NJ and launched it. Port motor ran ok, starboard not so much. Turns out 1 cylinder has 0 compression (cool huh?) others are at 120. Piston moves, wall looks good. Ordered new rings and gasket set hoping that is all it is.

Next, port throttle won't stay in position. I read about the set screw and tried that but maybe not enough cause it won't budge.

3- Steering is exceptionally hard. Removed both cables, first from the jets with no difference, then from the helm. Ordered new cables and hoping for the best.

D- Port engine tach needle is stuck at 6k. I'm guessing a new gauge is in my future.

Do you guys think I'm on the right track or am I missing something?



Thanks,
Bill

 

[hotrodssnova]

Did you test both engines? You said the "others ". If so, that's at the service limit of the top ends. If it was just the other cylinder on the same engine, you might get lucky with the rering. You will want to see if it was just worn out or if it ran lean and stuck a ring. Did you pull the head yet?

 

[100dollarbill]

Yes. Tested both engines, Port engine was 120 and 122. Starboard was 0 and 120. Pulled the head to verify the piston moves. Didn't pull the buckets yet. They're called buckets, what the piston is in, right? The new spark plugs I put in a couple weeks ago on the 0 compression cylinder still looks brand new and dry.

 

[hotrodssnova]

Those are called jugs. I would go rent another compression tester just to be sure unless you know it's accurate. That compression is low. Others will chime in, but, you could get lucky and just do top end rebuild. Unless the engines have been rebuilt in the boats history, I would rebuild bottom end also.

 

[100dollarbill]

Compression tester is brand new. I may have an old one laying around somewhere. Not sure of boats history, was told engines were rebuilt but with 0 compression that's hard to believe. PO only had it for 2 months and didn't put it in the water. The oil system has been removed and all the gray lines have been changed out. On one motor
the top is white and the other is silver if that helps.
I figure we'll do the rings and gaskets on the bad motor and see if it brings up the compression on both cylinders. If so then we"ll tackle the other.

 

[Coastiejoe]

When we see pretty equal low compression, we like to confirm it is accurate with a second guage. Reason why is, many are cheaply built and simply not accurate.

Over-all, you do sound like you are on the right track. If the engine hours are higher, a top-end is somewhat of a waste. The bottom end usually does not hold up once the to-end is new if there is many hours on the low end.

Steering: To confirm, the helm and the nozzle are both loose and easy to move with the cables removed, yes?

 

[100dollarbill]

What compression is good? I thought I read 150 was. No idea on how many hours. Don't know what to believe from the PO.

Steering: Yes with cables disconnected everything moves easily.

 

[Coastiejoe]

. Don't know what to believe from the PO.

Steering: Yes with cables disconnected everything moves easily.

You should "hear" the PO, but you better test everything,,,,
Yep,, you need cables..

 

[100dollarbill]

I think the excitement took over. I'm like a 52 yr old kid.

 

[Coastiejoe]

I hear ya. I'm 51 and play like I'm 21,,,

 

[XP 787]

Pull the head and post some pics (easy to do) and we'll get that boat situated.

Its unfortunate that there are people out there who take advantage of others, that's why a water test is important when buying a new water toy.

 

[100dollarbill]

Thanks XP.
Well the rings and gasket kit and the steering cables came in. Going to the lake house on Sunday to tackle it with my son. I'll try to remember to take some pics.
Looking at the manual I need blue loctite. Anything else you guys can think of?

 

[MLars]

Thanks XP.
Well the rings and gasket kit and the steering cables came in. Going to the lake house on Sunday to tackle it with my son. I'll try to remember to take some pics.
Looking at the manual I need blue loctite. Anything else you guys can think of?

The steering cable is a pain in the arse to replace. It's borderline impossible to change it without taking the steering wheel off. Bring a hammer to help knock the wheel off. Then you can pull out the mechanism from behind the dash and change it. It's much easier that way. Also, bring a flathead screwdriver to scrape all the old silicone off the end of the cable in the bilge. Make sure you reapply silicone after replacing it to prevent any minor leaks.

 

[100dollarbill]

Thanks MLars, I'll keep that in mind.

 

[100dollarbill]

Well, this isn't good.

Now I need a new piston and jug. Should I just do both? The piston and cylinder wall toward the back of the boat (PTO side?) look ok.

On the plus side, the steering cable replacement went fine.

 

[XP 787]

How does the crank look? Any excessive play in connecting rod? If crank checks out do a full top end (not just 1 piston and cylinder)

You can either send jugs to Full bore and they will bore and hone cylinders (if repairable) and send them back to you with new pistons of your choice.

Option 2 is to use SBT's cylinder exchange program. They send you Rebuilt cylinders with SBT pistons and you send your cylinders back to them. This is a much faster option if you are pressed for time.

 

[Coastiejoe]

Top end work is pretty cheap. I would replace them both as this would likely buy you more time over-all...

 

[100dollarbill]

The SBT exchange program looks like the way to go. So how does it work? They send you the "new" parts and you send back just the old cylinders? They don't want the old pistons and crap, do they?

Also, if the "new" cylinders are .025 over will that make any difference with the other motor being std?

 

[XP 787]

Yes just ship them back cylinders. I believe you have 2 weeks to ship them back after you purchase or else they will charge your card for the core. No one engine being bored out will have no affect on boats performance.

 

[hotrodssnova]

Looks like the Pistons lived a long life. The jugs look kinda salt happy in the cooling water area. Those look like mine before I sent them to full bore. Note on them, I sent them out in very early may and they should be here on Tuesday. Takes about a month for them. They did have a good price, so I can understand why the wait.
Sbt is also great. My crank is from them. From what I can see of the inside of your block, looks pretty clean. I didn't see any glitter. Make SURE you cover everything with a rag when you go to install the pistons. You don't want to drop anything into the case. Use the blue lock tite, not red . It's overkill.

 

[100dollarbill]

Thanks guys. I'll probably order from SBT tomorrow.

 

[100dollarbill]

Placed order with SBT. Cory called to verify and told me it will be 3-5 days before they have one and then 3-5 days for shipping. Well, maybe I can do the wear rings this weekend.

 

[100dollarbill]

Well, things didn't go so well. Took the jet pumps off to do the wear rings but for the life of me could not get the impellers off. I took them both home tonight and put them in my vise and with the removal tool, a breaker bar and 3 ft pipe and they won't budge. What the heck am I missing?

I'll probably have to take it to the Dealership near me to change the wear rings.

 

[100dollarbill]

On the plus side... I was able to tighten up the port side throttle. The handle was loose and would fall back to idle if I let go of it. If anyone was wondering, it is the big Phillips head screw on the outside and you need a #3 Phillips. Really crank on it, it will work.

Also put silicone around the new steering cables we put in last week.
Tomorrow my son and I are going to tackle the replacement of the jugs, pistons, etc. on the starboard engine. Wish us luck!!

 

[100dollarbill]

Ok, replaced the pistons and cylinders and put everything back together. Rechecked compression on both motors. All cylinders were at 135 with throttles held wide open (I read that was how to check it). Got it to fire and run for a couple seconds but had to shut it off. Note to self- don't start without jet pump attached to shaft, they violently flop around.
Tried again removing impellers, this time using a propane torch on the splines to melt the Loctite (read that on here somewhere). Still no joy. I'm going to drop them off at the dealer (as much as I hate to) and have them change the wear rings. I can't believe how much trouble it's giving me.