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1996 Seadoo XP

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X4Enthusiast

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I just bought this a month ago. It ran great for the first tank of gas. The second time I took it out a little into riding it started cutting in and out at the top end throttled out. Thought maybe some bad gas so took it home pumped out the tank the filled it up with premium and some fuel stabilizer.

Took it out the next day even worse now it was shutting off. So I googled it found this forum and started reading. Narrowed it down to what I thought was the rectifier. I tested compression both cylinders at 150. Checked the spark both were bright blue. Tested the charging system at high sustained rpm 15volts.

So I ordered a new rectifier changed it and it ran great for 1 tank of gas today. Second fill up it started doing the same thing again cutting in and out top end. I'm not super mechanically inclined so I'm beginning to think this was a bad purchase because just to look at it everyone wants $150 super frustrated............
 
do you have the old fuel lines ?

and ps... just so you know, people rarely sell 18 year old jet ski's because they were running "spot on" and they didn't want to be bothered anymore with a ski that was running perfect.

expect some minor annoyances along the way as you work out the bugs. with a little luck it won't be too expensive to fix. If you have bad luck, it could get ugly :(

if your not mechanically inclined and aren't comfortable with tacking some diagnostic work and part replacement, then well, time to bite the bullet, bring it to a competent shop/individual and let them have a look see.
 
When you say cutting off are you sure it's spark related? It's pretty common when the carb filters clog up the machine will surge at full throttle, making it feel the the ski is shutting off and back on and off and so on.
 
Have you already ruled out the fuel system? Sounds like you might have sediment clogging somewhere. Original Grey fuel lines? Air leak in a fuel line somewhere?
 
I wasn't trying to say cutting off like completely cutting off I meant cutting in and out but your word is better it's like a surge vroom bog a little vroom then bog. It only does it top end though. Thing takes off like a champ if it was the carbs or fuel system wouldn't it have problems on demand too? Also if it was the carbs why would it run great for a while after I replaced the rectifier for a tank then start doing it again? I haven't checked went through the fuel system or taken the carbs off and checked them. Thanks for all the replies and help fellas!
 
Your high speed needle can be partially blocked which would cause the low end to be OK. Most issues are usually fuel related with these things.
 
Before I get into the fuel system and pull off the carbs if I test the system again and it's at 15 volts again what could I be looking at?
 
Where did you source rectifier from?

As stated above what color are fuel lines?

Carbs need to be gone through. Today's fuels ruins certain components of fuel systems when left unused resting in carbs, fuel tanks, lines etc.

Rob
 
Not too many shops that are actually good. Most charge you to do more harm than good. I think at this point most of us are 98% sure something is plugged in your fuel system and for about $125 in parts we can walk you through fixing it yourself. Heck, you might even start collecting these things. It does become a sickness.
 
I'm really nervous about messing with the carbs. I just don't know how to clean these rave valves or setting the pop off pressure after rebuilding them if I could do it. I was gonna pull out the fuel baffle a solder where I take the fuse out and check the float and JB weld that little magnet on it. Because the fuel gauge isn't working and I'm pretty sure that's what it is. After reading post about that. But I gotta figured this issue out first. $125 worth of parts? Like a new filter and two carb rebuild kits? Where should I get the filter?
 
It is not that hard and though I strongly recomend checking pop off it is not the end of the world if you do not.
Parts you will need...
(2) Genuine Mikuni MK-BN38/44 SPR rebuild kits available on amazon for $47.92 each
(2) Genuine Mikuni 1.5 Needle and Seats number 786-35015-1.5 available on amazon for $16.24 each.
(2) carb base gaskets

OSD Seadoo can hook you up too with everything you need.

Take the carbs off, take pictures so you can get them back together, clean all parts with carb or brake cleaner and reinstall. We can walk you through it.

Only note of caution is to keep and reuse the black springs that come out of your carbs and your pop off should be good to go, the ones in the kits are not the correct ones.

Get R Done!
 
[MENTION=73297]X4Enthusiast[/MENTION] you should keep the baffle connected yet pulled from tank and leave the float half way in the baffle and then fire up your gauges by pressing the start button 5 times or so without the key on. If you get a reading your baffle itself is fine. Put the float in a cup of gasoline and it will probably sink like a heavy turd!
 
X4 enthusiast, shoot me a PM. I am in the Metro Detroit area. Now that you better explained your issue, I still think it's carb related.
 
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