BruceXP116
Member
The ski works perfectly fine if you throttle it up to 90%, but if you reach at hundred percent with your thumb touching your grip, the ski will bog down. Pls help
1996 Seadoo XP bogging at full throttle
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Have you followed the carb rebuild sticky to the letter with all new genuine Mikuni parts?
Verified the fuel selector and strainer are clear and not sucking air?
Typically this is a fuel starvation issue and will ruin your engine if you don’t fix it asap.
Verified the fuel selector and strainer are clear and not sucking air?
Typically this is a fuel starvation issue and will ruin your engine if you don’t fix it asap.
BruceXP116
Member
When I take it out and I warm it up the ski runs perfectly fine. It’s after about 10 minutes. If I hammer it just idling it will run perfectly but if I’m going about 20 to 30 miles an hour and hammer it that’s when it bogs down. If I went into a turn it would bog down severely, even if I was hammering through the turn I already checked and I have 160 psi In each hole. I’ve recently been getting back into restoring the ski after it’s sitting over and over again for years. I have not yet rebuilt carburetors. And the fuel strainer is good because I cleaned it. I don’t know what a fuel selector is though, if you could give me a picture
Well…..
We have been over this hundreds of with others so carbs, carbs, carbs.
You need to check the special square oring on the strainer because when people”clean “ them the oring almost always sucks air resulting in a lean condition.
The fuel selector is the ON/OFF/RES valve. They go bad on the inside and can’t be cleaned or repaired and again suck air and cause a lean condition.
We have been over this hundreds of with others so carbs, carbs, carbs.
You need to check the special square oring on the strainer because when people”clean “ them the oring almost always sucks air resulting in a lean condition.
The fuel selector is the ON/OFF/RES valve. They go bad on the inside and can’t be cleaned or repaired and again suck air and cause a lean condition.
BruceXP116
Member
Plug chop is the only way to get an accurate plug reading and is an art.
If I had to guess it looks lean on top and rich idling.
Honestly I’m not trying to be a hard ass or give you any grief. I honestly try to help everyone here keep these old skis running as long as possible for the least amount of investment. I have been messing with these for over 30 years now and feel every year of being an old fart.
Again please start with your carbs and the carb rebuild sticky, 98% of the time that’s the issue.
If I had to guess it looks lean on top and rich idling.
Honestly I’m not trying to be a hard ass or give you any grief. I honestly try to help everyone here keep these old skis running as long as possible for the least amount of investment. I have been messing with these for over 30 years now and feel every year of being an old fart.
Again please start with your carbs and the carb rebuild sticky, 98% of the time that’s the issue.
BruceXP116
Member
ok no problem man I’m just trying to get as much help as possible. Would that mean I need to adjust my top end air to fuel screw on the carb. I definitely will get a carb rebuild kit too
No, these skis will run perfectly with stock settings. If you have to mess with the screws something is wrong.
Make sure you only use genuine Mikuni parts including new needles and seats. Very you have the correct popoff springs as the ones in the kits are not correct.
BruceXP116
Member
Ok thanks for all your help!!
FoxRcng708
Member
99% of problems with these skies are Carb related, I have 5 pre millenia and main issues are Carbs and Fuel Lines.
arlenj
Member
My '95 XP had major starting problems. I recently finished rebuilding both carbs following to the letter the sticky posted by mikidymac. As he suggested I used Mikuni parts and factory settings. All problems went away. It now starts instantly!
I had similar issues with a 97 GSX that I had just purchased this fall, ran perfectly up until 5000 Rpm and would then bog right down when I gave it more throttle. I had changed the fuel lines and cleaned the micro filters in the carbs, cleaned the fuel/water separator. Ended up being extremely dirty rave valves. I’m not saying this is your problem for sure but it’s something else to look at if the carb rebuild and selector replacement doesn’t fix the issue. Especially if the machine is fairly new to you, running the wrong injection oil can cause the rave valves to get very dirty.
Poormanracing
Active Member
Check the clearance between rotary valve a sloppy valve clearance will cause this and check impulse line make sure no leaks and loosing pulse input
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