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1996 Seadoo Bombardier GTX problems.... Need help

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Its hard to tell from the video where the noise is coming from. But I don't like it the sound for your sake. I was hoping it was just the typically seadoo pump rattle but it does not sound like it to me. To me it just sounds like a rough running engine. Try and pinpoint more where the dry sound is coming from. If you are hearing at the rear of the ski on the outside as well as inside the hull it is possibly your jetpump, there are bearings in there that might be on their way out. Maybe try grabbing the PTO with the spark plugs out and turning it, see if it feels like a metal on metal type of grinding.

Just my Opinion, like to see what the others have to say.
 
Just to answer your earlier question: no, you can't use the motor out of the donor ski. You can use the wires, solonoids, but not MPEM. You have a 787 motor while the other is likely a 720. The pumps are the same, as are many small components like cables, seat latches, bolts, etc. I'd keep it until your project is done then give it to me :) Haven't had a chance to watch the video yet as I'm at work and youtube is blocked. Congrats on getting it running! From the look of those pistons, it appears that you still haven't broken that motor in. Find instructions on this forum on how to do so and carefully break it in. I noticed your coil was very corroded. I bet you could replace it with the one in your donor ski. If not, make sure that your coil ground wire is in good shape as that will stop your ski cold. (Had it happen on one of mine b4)
 
1. ignition coil is different so is the ignition system so Can't use it. Just clean yours up the best you can and use a nut and bolt on the end with the terminals.
2. All the parts on the driveshaft are all there is to it. There is two rubber bump stops at the ends of the driveshaft.
3. No bearings where the shaft goes through the hull.
4. Don't loose any of those o-rings on the pump.
5. The wear ring looks like it has some gouges in it.
6. Your supposed to have two clamps on the pto boot.
7. The bearings are behind the prop. You have to unscrew it from the shaft to get it out. Then you will see the bearings and a thrust bearing.
8. Clean your carbs! Check pop off! Change the fuel lines. You need 25 feet of 1/4". There should be a few feet left.

Did the previous owner say it seized or that it just shut off?
The tops of the pistons look good but what does the skirts and sleeves look like ?
Check the raves for cleanliness.
Check the water regulator as well.
 
1996 bomb said:
I bolded the replies which might be easier to follow than scrolling up and down, thank you.

I started pulling the parts ski apart to see if the drive shaft and rear assemblies were the same. The impeller on the parts ski looks like stainless, but I cant tell till I finish pulling it (they used some crazy strong flexible sealant, and its not wanting to co-operate). This other ski has some after market performance parts so the assembly probably has better/newer bearing, prop etc...

I was able to push the impeller in and out about 1/8" or so, that tell us anything?
Click to expand...

1. The prop does have a bit of in and out play.
2. Inside the pto you will probably find another ruber bump stop stuck in there.
3. The wear ring is the plastic ring around the prop.
4. The prop is difficult to remove from the shaft. You need to take the cone off the back. Hold that part in the shaft in a vice. And get a tool that fits into the prop. They're cheap to get. Then just twist it off but its usually difficult to break the bond.
5. Your going to have to make a pop off tester and get a gauge that reads up to 60 psi. Google how to make one. Its easy.
6. The skirt is the bottom part of the piston. The bell shaped part.
7. The sleeve is the ligning if he cylinder
8. The water regulator is on the exhaust can. It looks like the rave valve cap.
You can download a full service manual that shows everything. Just Google that year and make and model service manual.
 
In water the impeller puts a load on the shaft and all the components. Out of water it allows for movement.

I think you are good to go.
 
Are you talking about the rattling noise? That's normal. Stupid seadoo engineers were too cheap to put a spring-loaded cone in there to stop that. They sell them for $20-30, but they don't work all that well. You can just up the idle so that you don't hear it in the water.
 
Well gentlemen, you have no idea how glad I am to hear so many saying it's normal!!!!

As soon as the wife returns from taking her final we'll run it on the trailer at the launch...

Thank you x10 to everyone who posted.
 
Sorry, I don't know that one.

As the battery voltage drops the ski will run worse and worse. The MPEM requires 10.5 volts or better to perform properly.
 
Now that your into the charging system, your going to have to do some test's.

1. Check for DC voltage at the battery while its idling. it should be around 13.5 but should be less than 14.4.
2. Check for AC voltage at the battery. You shouldn't get any.
3. Inside the front electrical box unplug the Red wire from the Regulator and see what its output is with the engine running. It should be around 14v
4. Unplug the 3 yellow wires going to the regulator and test between any combination of the 3 for ac voltage. It should be ~20 or so and up to 75 vac at 5000 rpm
5. Shut it down and test between the 3 wires for resistance. You should get about 0.6 ohms. Also test between any of them to the engine ground.


Normal would be 13.5-14.4vdc and no AC at the battery
The Regulator rectifier should output the exact same. If there is a difference between the two there could be a broken or corroded connection.
Also check the fuses.
The stator is isolated from ground so you should have no connection. If so there might be damage to the stator or the wiring inside the case.
If the Regulator fries the MPEM usually acts funny and won't allow it to rev up past 2-3000. Also if the voltage drops below 10.5 it will randomly shut off and then work again like nothing was wrong.
 
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1996 bomb said:
You have any idea if the rectifiers are motor specific?
Click to expand...

Actually not for yours. Its a fairly common design. You could even use one from a motorcycle.

Its called a 3 phase regulated/rectified charging system. Most motorcycles use the same system and basically its 3 wires into the RR and 2 out.

Now the one on the 720 and smaller engines are different, They use either single or two phase. Parts are not interchangeable between the two.


By the way, Your wife's hooked now there's no going back :thumbsup:
 
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