1996 GTI and 1995 GTX

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Still looking to see if anyone has thoughts on the GTI MPEM.

Also, a new problem has popped up with the GTX. Had it out on the lake, started doing some sharp turns/180's as I get more comfortable with the ski. Every now and then, when I go from ~20% throttle to WOT it bogs down and doesn't accelerate. To fix I just back off the throttle and hit it again a little slower and it's fine. Is this normal/to be expected? It happens mostly when I go WOT as I'm trying to make a sharp turn if that helps any.
 
I don't recall if you went thru the carbs on the GTX. If not it's a good idea to just rebuild them with OEM parts like what OSD parts has. When you do make sure to clean the tiny transfer holes in them and check the pop off. What you describe could be due to pop off being wrong or those holes plugged. There's a sticky on here about carbs. Follow it and set your needles to the stock settings and it will run perfectly.
 
I did that. Mikuni rebuild kits, new needles and seats original factory specs, cleaned the jets thouroughly, pop off pressure checked and synced up, etc...

I figured it could be something with the carbs. I'll keep an eye on the behavior and inspect the carbs when/if I get the gti off the stand.
 
ochem said:
Still looking to see if anyone has thoughts on the GTI MPEM.

Also, a new problem has popped up with the GTX. Had it out on the lake, started doing some sharp turns/180's as I get more comfortable with the ski. Every now and then, when I go from ~20% throttle to WOT it bogs down and doesn't accelerate. To fix I just back off the throttle and hit it again a little slower and it's fine. Is this normal/to be expected? It happens mostly when I go WOT as I'm trying to make a sharp turn if that helps any.
Click to expand...

Did you put an aftermarket in line filter in? Had something similar happen to me last year after about 2 hours on a new filter. I took the filter off and it was clogged with white residue. Put a new filter on and solved the problem. Still not sure what the issue with that one filter was. My tank is clean and the stock filter had nothing in it. It was like the fram filter dissolved.
 
There are three tiny transfer holes in the throats of the carbs. You have to hold your finger over two while blowing thru each one with carb cleaner. These easily get plugged. Details in the sticky. Also did you re use your old pop off springs or use new ones? Most of the time the new ones aren't right and there's nothing wrong with the old ones. OSD kits don't include springs for this reason.
 
I didn't replace the filter on the GTX. When I took it apart it was clean until I let it dry I was able to see through the screen against the light. I got the ODS kit as well so I had to use the old Springs. I also thoroughly cleaned the three Jets on the carb. Here is a pic of the mpem on the GTI obviously installed after the ski was made
42.jpg
 
One last bump on the electrical/MPEM issue on the gti. Should o just pull the trigger and get the used own MPEM? How likely is it that the post and/or the start button go bad?
 
Get with Nick and Jess at Westside Powesports. Nick is here on the forum. His username is Minnetonka4me or something like that. They are experts at MPEMs.
 
Bumping this up from last year. Once I got the gtx running, I put the gti aside for the season. Now I'm back on the gti before the season change. I got and replaced the mpem, thanks to minnato ka for that. Replaced fuel lines, selector and rebuilt the carbs. The new mpem I think did the trickon the starting issue, I hooked the battery up and it turned over every time. Now the questions. The beeper seems to be dead, how important is it? Is it worth replacing? I know it's part diagnostic tool, but how important is it really? And second and more importat, the seal around the drive shaft seems loose. See the video I'm linking and let me know if this is normal. Thanks
 
Your seal is correct, nothing wrong with it. As far as the beeper I wouldn't run without it. Not only does it tell you if it's reading the lanyard but it is also your overheat alarm. You can still get them from Floyd Bell.
 
Thanks, excellent news about the seal. To confirm. I put the lanyard on the post and hit the start button. The engine turns over, but no beep. I'm assuming the beeper is bad then, is that a correct assumption? Or does no beep indicate something?
 
On my 96 gsx and gtx when you put the key on the post you get 2 beeps. So if the beeper is working it should beep as soon as the key is on the post.
 
Very common for the beepers to go bad. I think I have replaced all of mine at this point.
 
beepers on order, carbs reinstalled, going to put in the gas tonight to see if it will start. one more question. I took a pic of the piston head through the spark plug hole with and endoscope. How do these look to you, looks like a lot of buildup. both heads look the same. Is it worth opening them up to clean them off, or should I leave them. The compression was good when I checked last year.
 

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Nevermind on the last post, I went through this whole thread and saw the pics of the pistons from the other ski after I opened the engine up and they looked identical to these pistons.
 
Alright, now I'm really confused. Like I said a couple posts up I hooked up the new mpem then hooked up the battery to see if it would register the key and turn over. Like I said, I got no beep but the engine tried to turn over repeatedly. Now I've hooked everything back up carbs are all hooked up gas in the tank oil lines bled, ready to see if I could start this thing. Except now I get nothing when I hit the start button no click no beep no sound no Engine turn over, nothing. Any ideas?
 
I did get a multimeter when I started this project last year but I know next to nothing about electricity. Just did a little research and watch a couple YouTube videos my battery is reading 12.6 volts when I jump across positive and negative Terminals, and it's reading the same when I jump from the positive terminal of the battery in the ground post on the motor. Would that rule out a bad ground or do I need to look more deeply?
 
Was the system working previously ? Do you have both black wires hooked up to the battery? Check the fuses in the Mpem and the Holder relay. That is the simple stuff I have found when I get nothing. Good luck !!
 
So after some quick tutorials and videos and reading on how to use the multimeter and what it means, studying the shop manual to see how to test the various parts of the starting system I think I've narrowed the issue down to the dess post. With the key on I never get 0 ohms with the meter, it always stays infinite. I'll order a post and see if that fixes it. Probably should have figured this out first I wonder if I'd never needed a new mpem
 
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