1995 Seadoo GTX Starting issues.

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A

AltoSincere

New Member
I have taken the Jetski out three times after buying it a month ago.
For the first 2 times, it ran perfectly.
It ran low on oil, the previous owner used xps oil, but I used 2-stroke semi-synthetic lucas oil after (exceeds api tc). It still ran fine that day after putting the oil in.
Yesterday when I took it out for the third time, I bought some pour-in fuel system/carburetor cleaner, the ones that you pour in along with the gas. When i arrived and started the jetski for the first time, it ran very well.
The first five minutes in were great until it stalled.I then tightened the clamp of the manifold since it was slightly loose. Then when I went again, it was running until I throttled it more around 3/4 in. It stalled. I just looked at the engine bay, Everything looked fine, no leaks, no smoke, and the fuel lines were not gray. I kept riding that day at half throttle max, everytime it did stall, I would start the jetski and let it run on idle for 15-30 seconds then it would run fine until the throttle was pressed in fully. Towards the end of the day when I kept starting it after it stalled, it would not start and run. I would turn on the engine, it sounds as if it would come to life and then die a second after letting go of the start switch. I should have stopped riding the jetski as these problems came in. It stalls a second after the engine turns on, it doesn't even idle. I haven't done any deep dive maintenance on the pwc yet, the previous owner did mention that the last time he used it was around 2 1/2 years ago.

Any ideas where to start?

P.S. This is my first pwc and I am new to the forums.

Thank you!
 
Sounds like a fuel issue, you may have damaged the engine running it in that state, I would start now by checking compression, if compression is good, go through your fuel system.
 
Oh, okay. I'll check the compression once I get home. What do you mean go through your fuel system, like the lines, pump , and carburetors?
 
A carburetor rebuild/ will most likely fix your issues, you could vacuum test your fuel selector valve or just replace it with OEM from OSD Marine or seadoowarehouse , vacuum test the fuel filter or have a look at the o ring in it. Make sure to buy a genuine Mikuni rebuild kit. The Amazon ones and aftermarket ones will not work right. Was the machine sitting for long before you bought it? Follow Mikidymac’s carb rebuild thread which you can find a link to in his profile. Make sure to get the pilot circuits cleaned out well and be careful when installing the grommets that hold the Mylar check valves to the fuel pump body, it’s very easy to punch right through them. But yes, I would check the compression before I did anything
 
burtshaver2021 said:
A carburetor rebuild/ will most likely fix your issues, you could vacuum test your fuel selector valve or just replace it with OEM from OSD Marine or seadoowarehouse , vacuum test the fuel filter or have a look at the o ring in it. Make sure to buy a genuine Mikuni rebuild kit. The Amazon ones and aftermarket ones will not work right. Was the machine sitting for long before you bought it? Follow Mikidymac’s carb rebuild thread which you can find a link to in his profile. Make sure to get the pilot circuits cleaned out well and be careful when installing the grommets that hold the Mylar check valves to the fuel pump body, it’s very easy to punch right through them. But yes, I would check the compression before I did anything
Click to expand...
Thank you, ill try my best to follow your instructions. Yes it was sitting for a while before I purchased it. I look forward to to it!
 
Your welcome, read through Mikidymac’s carb rebuild thread, I’ve read that simply taking the carbs apart and cleaning them usually doesn’t seem to go well but if they look like they are genuine Mikuni when you get them apart you could try cleaning the pilot circuits out, I feel like they cause a lot of the issues, and then trying it. Also while you have them off, check that the needle and seats aren’t leaking and that they hold pressure once back together. If you don’t have any experience with carbs don’t worry, I’ve only rebuilt 2 sets of them but with Mikidymac’s thread it’s easy, it’s basically all laid out step by step. The only part of his rebuild thread that I would caution you about is those fuel block grommets, look up the dental floss trick to help pull them through instead of pushing them through,
 
That’s to bad, I meant to mention it before but i would never use the pour in fuel, fuel system cleaner. The 2,stokes need that oil throughout the engine for lubrication and the fuel system cleaner can clean that oil away. I don’t think there’s any way that, that alone caused your low compression but....
 
burtshaver2021 said:
When you mentioned running it low on oil, did it run completely out of oil?
Click to expand...
No it still had about 3/4quarts of oil in before I refilled it. However, now there is a thin layer of oil on the bottom of the hull. I felt around and found the oil line connection to the bottom of the engine is either cracked or loose. It wasn't like this until today. I also found the spark plugs completely carbon fouled, just covered in carbon. I plan to either rebuild the carburetor tonight or tomorrow morning.
 
burtshaver2021 said:
That’s to bad, I meant to mention it before but i would never use the pour in fuel, fuel system cleaner. The 2,stokes need that oil throughout the engine for lubrication and the fuel system cleaner can clean that oil away. I don’t think there’s any way that, that alone caused your low compression but....
Click to expand...
oh.. is there a chance that the pour in fuel system cleaner harmed the engine?
 
AltoSincere said:
No it still had about 3/4quarts of oil in before I refilled it. However, now there is a thin layer of oil on the bottom of the hull. I felt around and found the oil line connection to the bottom of the engine is either cracked or loose. It wasn't like this until today. I also found the spark plugs completely carbon fouled, just covered in carbon. I plan to either rebuild the carburetor tonight or tomorrow morning.
Click to expand...
You understand that it will not run with that compression? You will need to rebuild the top end at a minimum.
 
Oh snap.. I did not know, what psi should it be at to run optimally? Darn ill have to rebuild the top end. I have rebuilt lawnmowers in the past and so on... how much more difficult or complex will the 657 Rotax be?
 
AltoSincere said:
oh.. is there a chance that the pour in fuel system cleaner harmed the engine?
Click to expand...
I think it harms them, but I don’t think that’s what has caused to it low compression. Either not getting its fuel or sounds like your oil line may have failed. Also have a look at the small oil lines going from the oil pump to rotary valve cover. If they have paint on them, they may be original and should be changed while you have access
 
AltoSincere said:
Oh snap.. I did not know, what psi should it be at to run optimally? Darn ill have to rebuild the top end. I have rebuilt lawnmowers in the past and so on... how much more difficult or complex will the 657 Rotax be?
Click to expand...
They should be at 125 pounds minimum and 150 is about new. It’s not very difficult, if you are mechanically inclined which it sounds like you are you will have no problem.
 
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