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07 rxt 6280rpm 52mph?

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2000 Roadking

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hey new here but i use the fte forum. any way friend of mine has a rxt we changed the plugs ,oil and filter I pulled the fuel pump cleaned the tank {not real bad} replaced sock. still did not help it ,went to the dealer they said it had tobe the impeller wear ring I took it all apart it did not look to bad but we replaced it . still not right. It will turn 8000 out in the yard. I was thinking fuel pump does any one know what the fuel pressure is supposed to be? and maybe some more ideas? thanks.
 
As posted in a similar thread:


Very common on the supercharged Seadoos to have a problem on the supercharger. Almost always the symptoms appear as a loss of top end speed, but in some extreme cases the engine blows.

You need to take the intake off of the supercharger and see if you can spin the impellers by hand. If they spin freely, it's time for a rebuild.



Supercharger Shaft/Clutch Kit, '08 Spec Rebuild Kit

At any rate, BRP recommends that the supercharges get rebuild every 100 hours. It's not terribly difficult to do if you are mechanically inclined and will keep your supercharger from blowing up your engine.
 
supercharger?

Thanks for info No I never checked the supercharger the rxt only shows 55hrs but my friend bought it used and he thought it looked like it might have more hrs than showed. I thought a supercharger would be belt driven or gear driven so how would you be able to spin the blade and woulr this cause a drop in the rpm's ?
 
No problem at all...those RXT are real fun craft.

Regarding the supercharger...Well basically there starts to be wear in the clutch of the supercharger and it's washers, and it no longer spins the supercharger impeller properly. It is gear driven, but until you actually see the gears you can relate this issue to being similar to a belt slipping (this isn't what is happening, but just so you know what it is similar to). With it slipping, the impeller will move freely meaning that the supercharger is no long able to build pressure.

All supercharged seadoos between 2004-2007 (and some early 2008 models) have ceramic washers inside of them. These washers are prone to failure (sometimes catastrophic, grenading the entire engine), which have been well documented on this site.

That said, even if the impeller doesn't spin freely I HIGHLY suggest getting the metal washers (also found on PWCMuscle) if you don't decide to do the entire rebuild.
 
I think I have got a mental problem I keep calling it a xrt. anyway thanks again , I was just reading the link on replacing the washers and copied it. Is there a link on complete rebuild and building it up to 2008 specs?
 
You may be using the SK-2 (Starter Key #2) if you go to sea doos web site and look at previously years models they show a SK-2 key which limits the machine to 50mph.
 
I had the exact same symptoms...right down to the RPM's. Definately sounds like the S/C. Mine lasted until 72 hours, but search around...some people have had their's go as early as 10 hours. Rebuild to '08+ specs and then ride it like you stole it!!
 
Supercharger clutch

So let me get this straight ... There's a clutch on the supercharger??? Does that explain why I can freely spin the intake impeller???
 
The sc has 5 concaved looking washers holding pressure against the lock washer that is splined to the impeller shaft . The lock washer holds pressure against 2 ceramic thrust washer's [old style] the drive gear that is turned by the flywheel rides on the impeller shaft inbetween the 2 thrust washers the preloaded pressure from the 5 concaved washer's [clutch washer's] allow's the sc to turn. What happens is one of the ceramic washer's shatter allowing the clutch washer's to lose their preload pressure. I guess they do this to allow the sc to slip in a overboost ?
 
yes if you can spin the s/c freely. then you need to rebuild it. Do it now! and hope that the washers are still all in one piece. If the washers came apart or are missing pieces you may have to pull the oilpan off.
 
Cool deal guys!!! Thanks for the info! I just pulled the supercharger out (surprisingly easy) and there is about a 1/4 inch of free play between both sides of the gear and the washers. Is this normal??? I looked at a digram of the SC online, and it looks like everything is still there, I.e. the ceramic washers.
 
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2007GTX_WAKE said:
Cool deal guys!!! Thanks for the info! I just pulled the supercharger out (surprisingly easy) and there is about a 1/4 inch of free play between both sides of the gear and the washers. Is this normal??? I looked at a digram of the SC online, and it looks like everything is still there, I.e. the ceramic washers.
Click to expand...
nope ! can you turn the gear with one hand and hold the impeller still with the other hand? if so you have a problem. There should be a washer on each side of the gear. check the diagram and your sc again. The spec on a new rebuild is it should take 80-124 inch lb's to hold the gear stationary and turn the impeller cap nut with the torque wrench. if you don't have the tools to check this spec. which your's will not take that much, but I would think it should take at least 80 inch lbs. you will not be able to rebiuld it.
 
Thanks roadking! Ya, I can totally hold the gear and spin the impeller by hand. The impeller spins soo freely. OH!!!! On another note ... I had the intake hose off and put my finger on the castle nut of the impeller while it was running, and the impeller didn't even spin. I even juiced the throttle and it didn't spin. I def do not recommend this to the non mechanically inclined person, lol!! So, I know I have a problem, but wanted to ask if the impeller should indeed spin freely.
 
So here's the bad news ... I am definitely missing a washer. The piece I thought was the washer is part of the shaft that helps hold the clutch package together. Anyone pulled their engine yet to get to the oil pan???
 
Ok, and the verdict is... The oil pump strainer caught most of the ceramic thrust washer pieces. Minor scarring and chipping on the oil pump do to the minature sized pieces that passed thorugh. Downploaded the manual and check clearance tolerance, and everything passed. I re-installed the oil pump after thorough cleaning. Found a ton of small fragments in the oil filter. Hopefully a few oil flushes will clean her out. Bottom line ... I had the SAME EXACT symptoms as mentioned at the beginning of this thread. There was no heads up that something was happening. It just went from 70 to 50 in a split second. RPM's dropped down to about 6200. So if you experience this symptom, it's definitely your S/C. I also talked to a dealer, and he said if I could freely spin the impeller with it installed, that it was indeed shot. He was right on.
 
YOU are the man! never thought of that! [that you can remove oil pump] like I said I had no replies when I inquired. Quess I was just over thinking it. Going go remove oil pump now. Thanks again.
 
Yep! I reconstucted over 1/2 of the washer with the chunks. And then with all the fine pieces and what was in the filter I feel I got a lot out, the pump gears looked a little rough but nothing major I am still thinking about replacing them the dealer did not have them today. I will take it down again this weekend and see. I did put it inthe water today,and went 7700rpm's @ 72 mph. Friend said it was perfect . Thanks again for the info, never thought the pump would on the front of engine and so easy to take off!
 
That's awesome man!! Ya, the supercharger AND the oil pump were super easy to take off!! I'm glad you got to take a look at it and fix it. I can't wait to get mine back in the water and see how she runs!! I still haven't hit 70. I've seen 68
 
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