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'04 Sportster 4tec check engine light-1st ride out

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Blue-doo155

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hey guys,
Just picked up a fresh water used 04 Sportster with the 155hp w/ 140 hours (according to dealer). It was owned by an older couple and it great shape, doesn't appear to have been beat on. It has been sitting for awhile though.
anyways, my first time out(within 5 min) the check engine came on with a 2-3 second beep. It wasn't in "limp mode" but the light stayed on the entire 20 min i stayed out. Didn't want to push my luck any further so i took it back in. Noticed my tach wasn't working so could that be setting this light off? Did some research and read about the known oil sensors going bad, but my oil light on the dash didn't come on. temp & volt lights weren't on either. coolant & oil levels look good, maybe a pinch high. Engine compartment looks good with no corrosion and no loose connections. I have the analog gauges, so no codes. Any ideas what could be triggering this light?
thanks!
 
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The exhaust temp sensor in the water box is another common problem but it's a guessing game without a Candor PRO. Start by checking fluids.
 
As was mentioned before, it is a guessing game unless you can pull the code that tripped the check engine light. Your are correct that there are some common sensors that will go bad. There are 2 oil pressure sensors, one measures the actual hydraulic oil pressure, and the other measures the crank case air pressure. I had an issue with the crank case air pressure sensor and TOPS which are related. Ended up gutting the TOPS since it is not really needed on boats and replaced the crank case pressure sensor.

Also make sure your oil level is not too high, it can cause buildup of crank case pressure and trip the check engine light. Correct oil level for these engines is right smack in the middle of the 2 bends.
 
I'll third that,,, Without the CanDoo pro, or a dealer, it is very hard to diagnose 4-tec engines. Yes, it cost $400, but I can pretty much promise that Is the lowest you'd spend at dealer,,,,
 
thankyou for the quick replies! i rechecked my oil level and its slightly above the upper bend of the dipstick, So i'll start by draining some oil. do these have drain plugs or is a pump is needed? If I did in fact have an oil related issue whether its too much oil or a bad sensor, wouldn't it trigger my oil warning light on the dash? I have 4 warning lights: volt/oil/engine/temp
guage.JPG
 
One thing with 4-tecs. The absolutely LOVE good spark plugs. Though I've not seen a plug cause a code, I have seen many runability issues due to a plug issue.
 
thanks for the tip.. its not idling all that well so i'm going to change oil, plugs and drain & refill with new gas this week.
 
One thing with 4-tecs. The absolutely LOVE good spark plugs. Though I've not seen a plug cause a code, I have seen many runability issues due to a plug issue.

Been there done that, no question plugs can make or 'break' a 4tech !!!
 
changed my oil and filled to right level. changed plugs and ran it. still have a check engine light. can anyone recommend an honest dealer or service shop in north or central jersey that can pull the codes to make the repairs?
 
brought my boat to a dealer over the weekend it turns out it was a crankcase sensor. Quick, easy $150 fix. In my case the sensor was causing a short resulting in a poor idle as well as the light on my dash. Apparently there is another one of these sensors thats not accessible in these boats without pulling the motor so i lucked out. Also, the tech confirmed that if it was an oil sensor the boat would go into limp mode in case any anyone here is trying to diagnose a check eng light. IMG_1661.JPG
 
sorry, your right. Must of misunderstood him. could of sworn he told me crankcase pressure sensor. I just re-read my receipt and it does state EGT. Kind of strange that would light up my check engine light and not a temp light
 
Glad you got it fixed. I have had my boat for two years, and it seems like a sensor fails, every year. However, sensors are easy and inexpensive, compared to other issues! I replaced the temp sensor, last year, and the CSPS this year.

FYI - Just had my Crank Shaft Position Sensor changed. My mechanic was able to remove it WITHOUT removing the engine. It is located right under the j-pipe. If you remove it, you can switch it out, but you have to drain the oil, first, and then refill. You will also get some oil under the engine, so you will need to clean the bilge. But, that is much cheaper and easier than removing the engine! Good luck and happy jet boating!
 
thanks for the tip Eclipse, i will keep that in mind if i run into any crank sensor problems...Well, i ran my engine for a minute today(first time since getting it back from dealer) and I still have a poor idle(fluctuating rpm's) when cold. Is this normal for these engines? After about 30sec to a minute, it starts to smooth out. So far I've done oil, plugs, new fuel. I think next up is a new battery. It cranks fine & seems to hold a charge but, its old. whats the ideal CCA battery for these?
 
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The dealer said it had low hours and it was owned by a little old couple that just drove it to the corner store once a week to buy milk. Sigh. Dealers are all crooks. They are not good. They make money if you buy. They do not make money if you don't buy. Honest dealers go out of business, which is why ALL active dealers are shit. I'm a professional salesman/mechanic and have been for many years, but what the hell do I know. Its frustrating to me hearing people believe what the seller/salesman has to say. Everything you know about the boat is what you can determine by inspecting it prior to purchase, period. The person selling the boat is a liar. They will lie to you in order to make a sale. A dealer selling a boat is a well trained professional liar. They say its been sitting for a while in order to justify all the problems you are about to encounter on your first trip out onto the water.
 
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