02 GTX DI Jigsaw Puzzle

[sooshi01]

Purchased a GTX that had a blown motor. Previous owner had already pulled the motor, shaft, and pump and had all the parts and pieces in boxes and bags. I knew what I was getting into when I bought this machine, but the hull is in 95% showroom condition and he already had purchased most of the rebuild parts, so it was a deal I couldn't I pass up. That being said, I've built probably 50 motors in my time and figured this would be just another 2 stroke. So far, motor is pretty basic and doesn't scare me much, though I can't for the life of me figure out why BRP felt the need to include a counterbalance shaft... seams to me with a good balanced crank, there would not be a need for it but alas, they built it this way so it is what it is... At any rate, I'm getting ready to put the motor back in the hull and I would really appreciate some help identifying where all the plugs go. It looks like there are a number of identical plugs that would be very easy to connect incorrectly. As any code would require either a trip to the dealer or candoo pro, i was hoping one of you members here would be able to post some pictures of an installed motor, or various connector locations. Also, any hose routing information would be greatly appreciated. As you can tell, this is my first post here and this is my first Sea-Doo. I've generally always ridden Ski-Doo sleds and Kawi jetski's. I plan on testing each module prior to startup since I wasn't personally around when the motor blew. It looks like the counterbalance shaft had a bearing sieze which wiped the motor. Previous owner thinks the unit was stored without draining or fogging, which I would believe. Crank wasn't in that bad of shape, but counterbalance shaft was a disaster. Any routing tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated.

I don't mind spending a little money to make this run, but I have to be careful not to get in too deep and am hoping to avoid a dealer diagnostic if at all possible. Along with a pretty much new motor, I've got a new oil pump, rebuild kit for air compressor, running new lines for oil and bilge. I am planning on reusing the old injectors, though I wouldn't mind having them tested. Just not sure if anyone locally can do it...

At any rate, hello forum and hopefully someone can shed some light on the electrical and line routing.

Soosh

 

[- BiRkS_]

Welcome to the forums!

If the 951 CB shaft failed, normally it wipes out the cases AND the center gear on the crank. If for any reason you suspect high hours or water ingestion at some point, I would strongly advise replacing the crank with a re-man.

You can download a shop manual for free. goodle seadoomanualsDotnet and select your year.

As for tips re-installing, Clean the hull with a good degreaser and make it shine. Makes the hull much nicer to work in and clean if you re-sell. Run all your lines ahead of time before the engine is in, because you wont get much room otherwise. The 951 pipe is a pain to get on. there is 1 15mm nut underneath the manifold near the carbs/throttle bodies that is a...treat. And the band clamp that joins the two pipe halfs is a challenge. I recommend installing lower pipe half. upper pipe half with loose bolts in the manifold joint. then have 1 person hold the pipes halves together flush (with some hi-temp rtv on surfaces) and then tighten the band clamp. Then tighten the manifold bolts and support brackets. Then install the throttle bodies.

Hope this helps.

 

[LouDoo]

Hi Soosh, and welcome to the Seadoo forum.

Unfortunately I'm not that familiar with DI ski's, however I think I may be able to point you in the right direction. There are a couple of resources that may be of some help, the first is "PARTS" at the top of this page, this will not give exact hose and wiring connections however it will give you an idea of point to point connections. The second resource is a official Seadoo shop manual, you can download one from this site if you join as a premium member, or you can just google and find one elsewhere.

Electrical connection and connectors, unfortunately as you have already found, and I found out the hard way. Just because electrical connector fit and match up they are not necessarily correct. You will need to verify all connections, the good news is there is a complete electrical schematic in the shop manual, it will take a little time but you can figure out the correct connections.

Lou

 

[sooshi01]

I have the shop and parts manual and already took some citrol to the engine bay, looks as good as day 1! Motor has new everything, crank-cb shaft, bearings, seals, oil pump, etc.. stock crank is actually in really good shape and is definitely worth rebuilding later. But for now, its all new minus the rebuilt air pump. I'm pretty solid on the mechanical, had the cylinders honed an extra .001 clearance and she should be a very solid rebuild... if I get the connections right

 

[sooshi01]

So, I spent the last 2 months reading every article and tidbit I could find on the 951di. Took a bit to get all the parts rounded up to rebuild it and had a crank fiasco. Assembled the motor and noticed that the crank was not phased correctly and was about 2 degrees out, so it took me a while to get it warrantied and then I shipped it off to Crankworks for an inspection and true. Spend the last 4 days hitting this jet ski hard and finally got it together this afternoon. Installed fuel pressure gauge when I put everything back together and had 26psi at lanyard engagement so I hit the start button and she popped right off. Sounded nice and was very smooth. Was a good moment after all that work to hear it come alive. Fuel pressure at idle was 104psi, slightly below spec (3psi) but could be the gauge...

As good as things turned out, I have 2 mysteries I've been unable to solve and one item I wanted to verify as the manual sucks.

1) on the starboard side of the hull near the front is 2 little outlets just below the lip. One of them traces back to the fuel tank for vent, but the other one I have no idea where it's supposed to go. It had enough length of hose on it that it could reach to approximately mid motor, but I don't have any hose barbs left.

2) on the airbox silencer at the top, there is a 1/8" nipple with a short (probably 12") piece of hose attached, but not sure where it goes.

3) The counterbalance cavity vent - I purchased a complete used motor I intended on putting in this hull but it turned out to be a pile of crap. However, it still had all it's lines connected and the counterbalance shaft vent line went up to a check valve on the back side of the rave solenoid. So when I rebuilt the motor, I hooked mine up the same. After giving it some thought though, I'm not sure that is the correct place for the vent to be attached because if the cavity does get some pressure and push out the lube, with the check valve on the line it won't be able to suck it back in. I was wondering if the hose from my first item is supposed to be hooked up there instead so the cavity has the ability to breath?

on a side note: I added 40ml of synthetic 75w-90 to the cavity. I used a very precise measuring burette so I know I put in exactly 40ml. However, once I installed the motor into the hull, and the motor leaned over to sit naturally, the next day I noticed some oil under the motor. Mind you it wasn't a lot, but it definitely came from the vent nipple which I didn't have a hose installed on yet. I have since installed a clear vent line, and I can see about 1/2" of oil in line. If these things are supposed to filled to the top of the threads, why don't they just say that?

At any rate, any help with the last remaining items would be greatly appreciated.

Soosh

 

[sooshi01]

Spent the evening crawling through the parts manual and verifying all my connections and back tracing everything. I think I found what the black line that goes to the starboard grommet under the rail. The diagrams show that the original battery had a vent line installed, which would make sense with the length of hose I have. I installed an AGM battery that doesn't have a vent, so think I'm ok on that regard. Still questioning whether the counterbalance shaft vent line is supposed to be "Tee'd" in on the non pressure side of the rave solenoid. The parts diagram shows it that way, but it just seems so odd to me that it would allow pressure to vent, but not suck back in as atmospheric conditions change. At any rate, I haven't water tested this thing yet, but all looks good and no codes. Candoo Pro arrived today (broke down and ordered it thinking I would need it) however, I don't have any codes after the new install so haven't hooked it up. We'll see how she runs first before digging that deep.

So, I still could use some help verifying the counterbalance vent plumbing and the nipple from the airbox silencer... Much appreciated fella's

 

[96spxpos]

soosh,
You are correct on that battery vent...
Almost all seadoo owners who put an aftermarket battery in, no longer need that vent tube, and there are always questions because people think they've missed a hose connection somewhere...so you're good on that...

 

[96spxpos]

on your airbox silencer, we obviously have 2 different motors, but just so you know, mine is completely missing and has been since the day I purchased.
I'm curious to know what that hose coming from yours does...

 

[DooWacka]

So, I still could use some help verifying the counterbalance vent plumbing and the nipple from the airbox silencer... Much appreciated fella's

The vent going to the counterbalance port actually terminates at the oil fill neck. There are two vent hoses attached to the side of the oil filler tube. This is a source of "clean dry air" since the other of the two hoses goes to the throttle body or TPS area. This allows "clean dry air" to feed into the oil tank replacing the oil that is used.

The "nipple" at the airbox is for fogging the motor. You can pull the nipple out a ways since it is attached to a small diameter clear tube, then adapt it to your fogging oil spray can red tube.

 

[sooshi01]

This is not meant to come across argumentative or anything, as I'm new to this ski and anything is possible. However, in my search I found for information I came across the Sea-Doo "One-day book 2002" troubleshooting and technical manual section 4 and it explains the 2 connections on the oil fill neck. It says the bottom connection is supposed to go to the Air Compressor oil return line on the bottom of the crankcase and the top connection goes to the throttle bodies. It warns about connecting the 2 lines incorrectly as it will result in 1) oil flowing into the throttle bodies, 2) pressure building up inside the oil tank subsequently blowing out the fill hose, and 3) If the check valve is plugged or installed incorrectly, it will also allow oil to flow into the throttle body. I would post a link, but the manual I'm referencing is on the Candoo Pro forum and requires registration of the Candoo module to view. If you have your counterbalance shaft vent line hooked up to the oil fill neck, where do you have the compressor oil return line hooked up? I see by under your avatar you have 4 of these DI's so if yours are running and no issues, would be curious to know about your connections.

Soosh

 

[DooWacka]

I am sorry, apparently my mistake. I mistook the diagram in my manual and looked at the first one in the attachment, instead of the second one. I have never had occasion to take off the vent from the counterbalance. If my 4 girls were near I would run and check the line out for you, however they are about 60 miles away in a warehouse for the winter.

The second diagram appears to show a line that comes from the crankcase, through a check valve, to join a T from the air solenoid, then (line #18) to an attachment on an adapter to the intake area. This may make more sense?

 

[sooshi01]

yes that is the diagram I used to connect my vent line as well. Just seems so strange they would vent it through a check valve that allows pressure to escape but not return. Seems like if you warmed the engine up and things expand as they naturally tend to, the oil would want to push out the vent a bit. When things cool down, the oil would contract and suck back in, that is of course if the check valve wasn't there. But who am I to argue with Sea-doo? I'm just an over the hill mechanic stuck in my ways and this was my first sea-doo. I know now that I chose a doozy, but so far things have been fairly easy. I can definitey see though how a person would go nutz troubleshooting one of these without BUDS or Candoo. I didn't think I had any codes as nothing was flashing, but she had a slew of stored codes once I hooked up Candoo. Definitely made me spend a bunch of time going through each module to make sure all was good.

 

[Minnetonka4me]

The check valves are to keep oil from escaping and getting in the water. You are correct in the building of pressure though, and I think its one of the main reasons 580-787 motors leak oil into the cases once the seals start getting weak.

Sounds like you got it right this time? Can you take it for a rip or is it too cold?

 

[sooshi01]

Its been about 20 degrees for the last week but I am gonna hitthe water this weekend one way or the other! Got a small window of high 30's to low 40's rolling in and as long as I can get back home without things freezing up, I plan to get wet. More to come in the next day or so.

 

[Coastiejoe]

Just dress for the occasion. I have pulled MANY people from cold waters. The individuals that had the right gear on, were fine... Others not so fortunate. Go for the ride, just do it right. Don't think, "it will just be a quickie..." kind of thing. Prepare as though it will will 8 hours JUST in case...

 

[sooshi01]

No worries their mate.got a nice wetsuit as we usually take the stand ups out in Feb or march. Also got a buddy dropping his boat in the water so I can get his kicker dialed in. Should be a-ok

 

[sooshi01]

Managed to hit the water today, wind was blowing and the river was rough, but the GTX ran very nicely and handled the rough stuff very well. Definitely a very stable platform, had to try very hard to get wet. As the motor is fresh, I didn't pin it to see what she's capable of but at 40mph there seemed to be a lot of throttle left and that was plenty fast for as rough as the water was. So, overall I think it was worth the $2900 I'm into it for escpecially since $400 of that is the Candoo Pro.

I did have a couple things I need to figure out though. The display on dash wants to keep going to the clock even though I would cycle to temp or RPM. Also the display was reading in Celsius rather than Farenheit. Lastly, there is some sort of rattle at idle though as soon you even hint of bringing the rpm up, it goes away. In water RPM was right at 1400 which actually created just a bit of wake idling out of the marina. Sounds like a shield or something so gonna have to look around and figure out if a hose is cable is rattling at idle. Minor issues though, biggest part is I know it runs well, handles good and should provide some fun times this summer.

 

[lamajama]

You can convert the Celsius to Farenheit pretty easy

 

[jhjesse]

Managed to hit the water today, wind was blowing and the river was rough, but the GTX ran very nicely and handled the rough stuff very well. Definitely a very stable platform, had to try very hard to get wet. As the motor is fresh, I didn't pin it to see what she's capable of but at 40mph there seemed to be a lot of throttle left and that was plenty fast for as rough as the water was. So, overall I think it was worth the $2900 I'm into it for escpecially since $400 of that is the Candoo Pro.

I did have a couple things I need to figure out though. The display on dash wants to keep going to the clock even though I would cycle to temp or RPM. Also the display was reading in Celsius rather than Farenheit. Lastly, there is some sort of rattle at idle though as soon you even hint of bringing the rpm up, it goes away. In water RPM was right at 1400 which actually created just a bit of wake idling out of the marina. Sounds like a shield or something so gonna have to look around and figure out if a hose is cable is rattling at idle. Minor issues though, biggest part is I know it runs well, handles good and should provide some fun times this summer.

View attachment 28823[/QUOTE

The rattle sounds like the Sea Doo signature pump rattle. My 00 GTX DI does it all the time at 1400rpms in the no wake zone.

 

[DooWacka]

I did have a couple things I need to figure out though. The display on dash wants to keep going to the clock even though I would cycle to temp or RPM. Also the display was reading in Celsius rather than Farenheit. Lastly, there is some sort of rattle at idle though as soon you even hint of bringing the rpm up, it goes away.

I think you can get the MODE to stay/default to CLOCK, TACH, SPEEDO, or CHRONO, but none of the other modes. I believe you just leave it on one of those modes, and it should become your default.

You can change between Metric and English units by holding down both MODE and SET for 2 seconds.

I agree with jhjesse, that the "rattle" is probably just the normal jet pump rattle. Don't worry about your wake at idle, it is understood by most folks, and so small that nobody should object.

Don't forget to winterize if where you live in Washington freezes. The DI's have a special winterization antifreeze routine that should be followed to avoid damage. It is explained fully in the service manual, which you should get if you don't already have one. Look at the footer on the manual images I attached for one free source.

Congratulations on your success. It looks like a beautiful machine, you're going to have a lot of fun.

 

[sooshi01]

I didn't have the flush adapter so I just pulled it into the garage for now. Gave me a good opportunity to spit shine the hull. Had some water spots that proved to be quite a bit of work to get off. Finally figured out that glass cleaner and some vinegar would take it off, though it required a few attempts and some elbow grease.

So, I've been wondering what I am missing under the spark plug tray. It appears like there's 2 clips to hold something and the white spark plug storage insert has room for something to be attached below it. here's a picture of the clips. Been through the parts manual and it doesn't show anything in this area other than a tool kit, which is attached under the seat. maybe this isn't used on this model?

 

[Minnetonka4me]

Yup its the hanger for the antifreeze tank on the 4 strokes.

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[lamajama]

It's the exact same body for the 2 stroke 2002 Di and the 4-tec version. I've had/have
both and no one knew I even changed!

 

[sooshi01]

Coolant holder makes perfect sense why I couldn't find anything on the parts diagrams, thank you! I don't think there's much left to do but wait for spring to throw some hours on it. Might fiddle around over Turkey day weekend and see if I can locate the source of the rattle. It's possible it's the pump though it's completely rebuilt. Sounds almost like it's coming from midship port side. However, when I started it with the drive line out, I did not have any rattle which lends some ammunition to that train of thought.

At any rate, I do appreciate the helpful nature of this forum.

 

[96spxpos]

Yes, don't pull your hair out over the long holiday weekend trying to diagnose that rattle. When I was a new 'Doo owner, especially when I didn't have a trailer and just kept it on the boat ramp, I drove myself NUTS trying to locate that prominent rattle, just to find that the signature sound of a seadoo, just like the ford power steering pump whine of the 1990's...
FYI, there's an "anti-rattle kit" that's available for the pump that allegedly lightens/eliminates the rattle, but many pros on here state theyre not really worth it/don't last long. If it drives you that crazy and you've got OCD like some do, (not mentioning any names *cough* [MENTION=57920]racerxxx[/MENTION] [MENTION=33508]ocod[/MENTION] LMFAO) maybe it's worth checking out, even if it only lasts briefly, so you can sleep better! Either way, clean frikkin ski man!


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