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Your help will be apreciated (noob)

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eddie_picazo

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Guys I decided to winterize my 2007 Seadoo with the great help of members of this forum today, but I think I messed up.. I fogged the engine with the BRP spray , I was getting ready to crank the engine (drown mode) I pressed the throttle and push the start button but the engine actually started so I shut it off tried again and it started again, I thought drown mode was suppose to crank but not start the engine. Did I do something wrong? Will this affect my engine?

Please help!
 
Not sure what you mean by "pressed the throttle and pushed the start button".... The drown mode sequence is short and simple.
Place key on DESS post, get yer 'chirp- chirp', hold throttle down in the full open position, then hold start button down and do not release.
The engine should NOT start. If it does, report back and the issue will be adressed.
 
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Not sure what you mean by "pressed the throttle and pushed the start button".... The drown mode sequence is short and simple.
Place key on DESS post, get yer 'chirp- chirp', hold throttle down in the full open position, then hold start button down and do not release.
The engine should NOT start. If it does, report back and the issue will be adressed.

Ok sorry, so I depress the throttle (WOT), hold down the start (ignition) and the engine starts rather than just cycle. So what I end up doing was just disconnect the cables from the coils so there was no spark, cycle the engine 3 seconds and called it a day. Anything wrong with what I did?
 
Nope that'll do the check engine light you saw will clear when your start it up. Come spring take your ski to a dealer and have them reset your TPS (throttle position sensor). That will fix the drown issue, and probably give you a few MPH up top. I don't think your hitting wide open throttle (well from the ecu's perspective anyway).
 
I've had the same thing happen to me various times with different skis'. That's why I have suggested here on the forum not to trust the "drown Mode" when changing oil. BMANNO6 has a possible solution with resetting the TPS. Another possibility is the throttle cable adjustment.
:cheers:
 
Okay got it fellas. I did some research and it seems that people have experienced this before where "drown mode" does not work, these is what I found,

"Is you throttle reaching full? if you have to much slack in the cable it might do that as if the butterfly gets stuck around halfway the engine wont crank I found this out when we thought we had a faulty solenoid turned out the ecu wont let you crank if the butterfly is not on the stopper when you put key on, Are you holding the throttle open then putting key on as this may be a problem you need to put key on get 2 beeps then open throttle and crank. less slack=more power as well! "

I will manually try to open the throttle or pulling the cable further and will report back with my findings
 
Nope that'll do the check engine light you saw will clear when your start it up. Come spring take your ski to a dealer and have them reset your TPS (throttle position sensor). That will fix the drown issue, and probably give you a few MPH up top. I don't think your hitting wide open throttle (well from the ecu's perspective anyway).


Gotcha, so what happens to the fogging oil I put in there? When the engine started, does that mean that it burnt the fogging oil? Do I need to refogg?
 
I would, if your planning on not running it in a long time. There is a few ways to skin a cat, I actually leave the plugs in when I'm fogging, and remove the fuel rail (and coil pack wires) and fog through each fuel injector holes (in intake) while turning engine, I just find this method gets oil on the intake valves and seats, piston rings, and exhaust valves and seats.
 
I would, if your planning on not running it in a long time. There is a few ways to skin a cat, I actually leave the plugs in when I'm fogging, and remove the fuel rail (and coil pack wires) and fog through each fuel injector holes (in intake) while turning engine, I just find this method gets oil on the intake valves and seats, piston rings, and exhaust valves and seats.


Ok BMANN06 let me see if I got you.

1: Fog through fuel injector holes by removing the fuel rail (originally what I did)
2: Disconnect coil pack wires (ended up doing that at the end due to "drown mode fail")
3: Now when you say turning the engine do you mean that by pressing the start button for a couple of cycles obviously with coil wires off and spray in each hole while engine is cycling?
4: And do I fogg again? you said yes. Do I run the ski with water hose connected to burn the rest of the fogging oil I originally put in there?

I'm in Texas so the ski will probably sit outside in a covered parking space for the winter.
 
Yes turn engine over but holding starter button (might get the wifey to hold starter button while yah spray), yes you got it disconnect coil pack wires. Don't worry about restarting to burn off the original fogging oil, just refog as you may have burnt most of it off when she fired up on you unexpectedly. We can have long winters up here so in my opinion too much fogging oil isn't a bad thing, I'd way sooner annilate a set of plugs as a result of extra fogging oil, that have too little.

This clear things up for you?

**Edit also disconnect fuel injector connectors or you'll be shooting fuel everywhere**
 
Yes it did bmann06 thanks bids.

So reporting back with a positive find. Turns out that the reason "drown mode" was not working was because my throttle cable had alot of play that when the accelerator was fully deperessed the butterfly will not fully open. I opened the throttle with one hand and pushed start with the other, engine cycles now perfectly without actually igniting like it use to. Thank you all for your help, I'm really lucky to be part of this forum.
 
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