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Wrapped rope around driveshaft, now feels like cavitation

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... my last rope suck I bent the driveshaft... so while your in there you could pull it and roll it on a flat surface... see if it wobbles.
 
Drive shaft bent.jpg
... my last rope suck I bent the driveshaft... so while your in there you could pull it and roll it on a flat surface... see if it wobbles.

Did it look like this?

Now I know why the carbon ring and the carbon ring boot went. Time to open the checkbook! Can anyone tell me what else I need to check?
 
Impeller photos are attached.

What should I be looking at on the impeller side since I have it torn apart this far?
I checked the pump fluid and it is BLACK, and smells like heavy gear oil (almost has a sewage smell). Is that the color it's supposed to be, and how it's supposed to smell?
The drive shaft was tough to get out of the impeller, that rubber gasket on the impeller is well past dried out. Does that come with a new impeller?

Here is my parts list so far:
Upgraded top hat
carbone ring kit
bellows (carbon ring boot)
drive shaft

Things wouldn't mind replacing since I am in this far:
wear ring
impeller (I would like to clean this one up and save it for a spare, but it's a little chewed up)
Anything else I should look at?
Any good impeller recommendations? Speed isn't as much a desire as out of the hole power for pulling the kids around.
 

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The oil is definitely shot. It is synthetic gear lube, and I think 75-90. I would remove the shaft from the impeller, and flush out the bearings before putting new oil. It is not difficult to work on. I started wrenching on a 95 gts about a year ago, and these guys are great.

Read the service manual. .. lots of good info. Make sure you use the right pipe sealant. I was in a hurry and used a non recommend sealant, and I got water in the pump. Ruined the whole pump, shaft, housing etc. and left me stranded.
 
Thank you. What pipe sealant do I need? Is there a thread on here with a step-by-step on how to check out the bearing?
 
Will this 80w90 work in the nose cone on the back of the pump? Or should I get something different?
 

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I can't believe how hard it is to find synthetic marine gear oil in this town. I finally found some Lucas Marine Gear Oil, Pure Synthetic, M8. Says it works for 75w-90.
Hopefully I can start putting this thing back together today. Still have a honey-do to accomplish first.
 
I got back to this project today. Install the new impeller and wear ring, but we had a little hiccup on the pump oil cone, my son installed it and when I went to check it he had tightened the bejeesus out of the cone bolts and had crushed the ears a little, one of them is starting to crack a little. To be safe I am going to get a new cone coming, I don't want to risk getting water in there.

We installed the driveshaft, top hat, carbon ring and bellows. What gives us the pressure against the carbon ring? When I install the driveshaft into the impeller will that pull the driveshaft back against the carbon ring?
 
It's back together. I backed the trailer into the water and started it, but the drive shaft isn't spinning. What am I missing? Something stupid or something major? I assumed the drive shaft reengaged when I put it back in, but maybe I needed to do something to align it.
 
I did not re-read the threads. Summarize for us what you did.

Is it a new shaft, PTO,,,, rubber bumpers on the end of the shaft????
 
I bought a used driveshaft and other parts from Minnetonka4me Nick. Changed pump oil (new o-ring and used anaerobic gasket maker), installed new wear ring, rebuilt impeller, neoprene seal, carbon ring, carbon ring boot, top hat, top hat o-rings, and top hat clip. Rubber bumper on the rear of the drive shaft and white plastic thing on the other end of the drive shaft.
I used a little marine grease when install the driveshaft into the impeller and again when installing it into the jet ski.
 
Well,,, how were the splines in the PTO? The rope make have stopped the shaft and the PTO splines got damaged,,,
 
I will check it out.
I am a complete newbie on this stuff. How do I get to the PTO? Do I unbolt this thing?
Stainless collar back.jpg

I am not incompetent when it comes to mechanical stuff, but I am when it comes to working on a jet ski. I have never worked on one before this episode. So if I am doing something totally stupid you need to set me straight.
 
Sadly,,, you will need to pull the shaft again. But yes, it is the large coupler at the back of the engine. How do the splines look on the old shaft. Nice and sharp and crisp or flattened and wiped out.
 
It took me 3 days to remove the drive shaft the first time. I bet it takes me 30 minutes this time, and that's with my boys "helping". :)
We will pull it apart later today.
 
Here is where I am now.
The splines on the coupler that the driveshaft goes into sure looks good to me. But, I put the driveshaft in after I had removed the support joint/bearing and when I pulled the driveshaft back out the coupler fell off. I am assuming that I need to remove the piece that has the four bolts coming off it? Do I have to take the seat shock off to get that thing off? Is this all still doable, or I am starting to get into this thing really deep?

Splines
Inside piece splines.jpg

Coupler fell out
Inside piece fell out.jpg

Seat support bracket thingy. That's what it's called in the parts book that I have. :)
seat support.jpg
 

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I just had the bright idea that maybe I could reach behind the seat bracket. So I did and there is a tube back there that is loose. I assume that is the driveshaft. Does the driveshaft feel like a thin metal tube? Not a real heavy walled tube like a car/truck has?

Edit: this is getting confusing. The metal tube that I am talking about is referred to as a shaft drive assembly in the parts manual, not the driveshaft.
 
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I stuck my hand between the engine and the gas tank and clearly this shaft is my problem. It's laying on the bottom up front, so the engine is not turning it at all. How do I get all of this put back together?
 
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