I ran over a rope yesterday. Heard the rope go in and shut it down but of course in that amount of time it wrapped around the driveshaft many times. We put the jet ski on the lift and I got the rope unwrapped. I started the jet ski up and made it about 50 feet before it started to feel like bad caviatation. I shut it down. I am attaching a photo, this clamp is off the boot that goes over the carbon ring. I assume this is a clue to my problem. Any help would be appreciated.
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Wrapped rope around driveshaft, now feels like cavitation
- Thread starter ShawnS
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I agree,, either there are some grease lines on the Carbon Seal or it is damaged. It also look a bit thin to me.
Are you familiar with the Carbon Seal as far as what it is and how it works?
Are you familiar with the Carbon Seal as far as what it is and how it works?
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The Carbon Seal basically "Floats" around the shaft (which is why it moves around easily) and is held with pressure against the metal collar. The pressure agains the collar is such that it will NOT allow water from outside the hull into the hull. There is suppose to be no grease on this seal. It is both cooled and lubricated by the water you are sitting in. So,, it may have some drips from it but it should not have any running water from it.
This seal assembly is what keeps the ski from sinking. It does wear just by the fact of its design. Yours looks thin to me, which is an issue. The thinner it is the less pressure there is against it. Less pressure means the likelihood of water getting into the hull and potentially causing a sinking situation...
The bellows also get weak and can cause a less pressure situation. I would replace all the parts as you must tear things down to replace any one part.
Two things, they make a thicker collar which helps to increase pressure against the Carbon Seal. And, the original way the collar was held in place is via O-rings under the collar. They have updated this a bit with metal "C-Clips" You WANT the C-Clips. They are much better than the rubber o-rings and you can instal and remove them without tearing everything down.
Does this explanation help or confuse you?
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This seal assembly is what keeps the ski from sinking. It does wear just by the fact of its design. Yours looks thin to me, which is an issue. The thinner it is the less pressure there is against it. Less pressure means the likelihood of water getting into the hull and potentially causing a sinking situation...
The bellows also get weak and can cause a less pressure situation. I would replace all the parts as you must tear things down to replace any one part.
Two things, they make a thicker collar which helps to increase pressure against the Carbon Seal. And, the original way the collar was held in place is via O-rings under the collar. They have updated this a bit with metal "C-Clips" You WANT the C-Clips. They are much better than the rubber o-rings and you can instal and remove them without tearing everything down.
Does this explanation help or confuse you?
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statikuz
Active Member
Info on replacing the carbon seal: http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?71248-How-To-carbon-seal-service-and-replacement
Thank you statikuz.
I had this thought today that maybe I am putting too much on the rope incident. It's probably related, but maybe I did something immediately after getting the rope out that is causing the cavitation. So I looked around tonight and I don't think the impeller looks right. I was able to get a decent picture of one blade but had a hard time getting pictures of the other two. After looking at pictures of new impellers it does look like there is a dip in the inside of the blade like mine has, but the factory "dip" isn't as severe. What do you all think?
Edit: We had 3 miles of gravel road leaving the cabin, that's gravel dust, not lake mud or anything else.
I had this thought today that maybe I am putting too much on the rope incident. It's probably related, but maybe I did something immediately after getting the rope out that is causing the cavitation. So I looked around tonight and I don't think the impeller looks right. I was able to get a decent picture of one blade but had a hard time getting pictures of the other two. After looking at pictures of new impellers it does look like there is a dip in the inside of the blade like mine has, but the factory "dip" isn't as severe. What do you all think?
Edit: We had 3 miles of gravel road leaving the cabin, that's gravel dust, not lake mud or anything else.
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96spxpos
Well-Known Member
If you look closely at pic #2, the rubber boot where the splines of the driveshaft go into, looks a little chunked out and torn. Not saying that's the issue, but if you take if apart, I'd replace that as well... Also, does your impeller bind on and of the wear ring when you Spin it (the black circle)? It's hard to tell from all the dirt, but it looks like there are scrape marks/impressions in certain areas of the wear ring.. That'll cause cavitation. Also, that impeller doesn't look treacherous unless that really is a chunk/bend/damage in pic 1.. Hard to tell. If that is a chunk bent or broken that'll also give you a less than smooth ride
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Mickirig1
Well-Known Member
You wrap a rope and it's going to cause the shaft to be displaced out of alignment. I did it and could see it when I looked up into the intake grate. No damage to mine. But I can see some spaces in your impeller to wear ring that don't look healthy. Impeller looks like it has eaten some sand and gravel a few times. I stop people all the time that are shooting out sand like a dredge in shallow water.
I finally got the ski back on the water. Same problem. Here are some additional notes:
It idles fine and goes through the water just fine at idle.
If I slowly accelerate it will speed up but after a couple seconds of increasing power it starts to "lose traction".
When idling and moving forward if I push the throttle down all the way it acts like a car on ice, it still moves forward at the idle speed, and the engine accelerates fine, but the ski doesn't speed up. I am detecting a vibration when that happens. Of course I am getting giving that description after only a few seconds of holding it wide open, I didn't want to break it worse than I already have.
I did run it with the back cover off and when I accelerate water comes out around the carbon ring.
I suspect something is out of alignment. The slight vibration I am feeling, and the water coming around the carbon ring both indicate that to me. Does anyone have any suggestions? If not I think my next step is to start taking things apart and inspecting them starting with the impeller and working my way forward.
Can I pull the driveshaft easily, or does that get into major surgery?
As a response to Mickirig's sand comment, I have a lift, and this ski does not get beached. I have only owned it 2 months, so no guarantees as to what happened before me. But now that I have it the ski is only at the cabin, and when we bring it to shore it goes on the lift. The good thing is that as I tear into it and replace things, I will know exactly what I have and how it will be treated. Of course my track record isn't very good so far!!!
For some background, I am 38 years old and play with old cars. I am by no means a mechanic, but I have rebuilt engines, done brakes, clutches, etc. My day job has me in the office a fair amount and doing handyman type work a fair amount. So I am not stupid when it comes to working on things, but I am not a pro either. This is my first jet ski. I bought it 2 months ago, so I am definitely still cutting my teeth.
It idles fine and goes through the water just fine at idle.
If I slowly accelerate it will speed up but after a couple seconds of increasing power it starts to "lose traction".
When idling and moving forward if I push the throttle down all the way it acts like a car on ice, it still moves forward at the idle speed, and the engine accelerates fine, but the ski doesn't speed up. I am detecting a vibration when that happens. Of course I am getting giving that description after only a few seconds of holding it wide open, I didn't want to break it worse than I already have.
I did run it with the back cover off and when I accelerate water comes out around the carbon ring.
I suspect something is out of alignment. The slight vibration I am feeling, and the water coming around the carbon ring both indicate that to me. Does anyone have any suggestions? If not I think my next step is to start taking things apart and inspecting them starting with the impeller and working my way forward.
Can I pull the driveshaft easily, or does that get into major surgery?
As a response to Mickirig's sand comment, I have a lift, and this ski does not get beached. I have only owned it 2 months, so no guarantees as to what happened before me. But now that I have it the ski is only at the cabin, and when we bring it to shore it goes on the lift. The good thing is that as I tear into it and replace things, I will know exactly what I have and how it will be treated. Of course my track record isn't very good so far!!!
For some background, I am 38 years old and play with old cars. I am by no means a mechanic, but I have rebuilt engines, done brakes, clutches, etc. My day job has me in the office a fair amount and doing handyman type work a fair amount. So I am not stupid when it comes to working on things, but I am not a pro either. This is my first jet ski. I bought it 2 months ago, so I am definitely still cutting my teeth.
Whiskey, after further reading on this forum I suspect that I am getting air around the carbon ring which could be causing cavitation, I assume that is why you want me to tighten things up. So you are telling me to loosen the rear clamp, and then slide the boot forward which would essentially push the carbon ring toward the stainless collar?
WhiskeyD
Well-Known Member
Yeah exactly
Once you slide the bellows toward the collar, there will be a small gap you just created where the bellows was clamped. Take a zip tie and fill this gap with the zip tie. This will prevent the bellows from being able to slide back on the hull sleeve,,
I read about the zip tie but wasn't able to figure out where the heck people were putting the zip tie. It all makes perfect sense now.
MANY MANY people don't get the zip tie thing. It is confusing until it makes sense. It is very simple once you see where it needs to go.
I have seen people put it on the bellows in the valleys (which actually take pressure away), on the high spot of the bellows, over the hose clamp, ect ect.
If this does indeed fix your issue, the proper fix is to replace the carbon seal as yours is worn or the bellows are weak.
If yo do so, replace the bellows, Carbon Seal and the make a Heavy Duty collar which is thicker than the OEM stock collar.
joe, I am in South Dakota, so the water temps are dropping fast as the nights are getting cold, so our tubing days are about done. I would say we only have another week or two at best. I would like to get it working well just so I can say it works well before winter. Then I will tear into it and replace some stuff this winter including the carbon seal and related parts.
I her ya,,, The zip tie trick is a GREAT means to do a test..
I moved the boot forward but also noticed that the carbon ring is definitely cracked. We took it out to see if it would leak and it still did a little, I am sure from the crack. Then the boot tore so we are definitely done for this season.
I am going to start tearing it down tomorrow. I assume I start from the back? What should I be checking on it? What should I replace while I am in there?
This jet ski is used to pull my kids on a tube, and I would like to be able to pull them on skis too. Is there an impeller I can get that will give me more torque? I am not concerned about top speed. Are there any other modifications I should make while I have it apart?
I am going to start tearing it down tomorrow. I assume I start from the back? What should I be checking on it? What should I replace while I am in there?
This jet ski is used to pull my kids on a tube, and I would like to be able to pull them on skis too. Is there an impeller I can get that will give me more torque? I am not concerned about top speed. Are there any other modifications I should make while I have it apart?
If it was cracked you were sucking air into the impeller I would bet. They sell a heavy duty (wider) collar. I would get a new bellows, c-clip, CS, Collar. There are also o-rings under the collar.
From the back is the best way. Since you are done for the season, if pull the pump, replace the wear ring if it needs to be as well as the cone oil on the impeller.
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From the back is the best way. Since you are done for the season, if pull the pump, replace the wear ring if it needs to be as well as the cone oil on the impeller.
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