wont stay running

[Seadoobuddy]

It could be the fuel selector valve...did you clean it yet?
If you have an In-line fuel filter ..can you see gas going into it? If not then maybe you should install one to find if gas is being pumped....get a clear (cloudy plastic) one not a metal one.
Is the under the hood gas filter clean?
Carb diaphragm damaged?
The right line to the carbs from the selector switch?

 

[ocod]

Man we are helping its just there is a lot for you to cover.
Like others have told you. Step back and realize you are not going to ride it just yet until basic maintenance is done starting with the carbs.

So lets start over and until everything is checked off list, do not test ski.

1. You said all grey fuel lines from fuel baffle have been replaced with new black automotive ones.

2. Friend rebuilt carbs and you don't know what was done. Ran good for hours after rebuild until you ran it out of gas.
Then problems started where either it fires or doesn't. If it does, it dies right away. Correct so far??
Options
a. Pay 65 to Dr Honda plus 50 rebuild kit and have it done right and check and set to factory specs
b. You get 50 rebuild kit plus cost of real carb cleaner and anything else on the shelf for cleaning plus cost to build pop off tester. A must in any rebuild
c. Have friend do it again

3. You have fresh fully charged battery. CHECK
4. Inspect and check for grease in bearing going out to pump. Otherwise replace $45 part
bearing carrier. If not you risk sinking if bearing seizes
5. Remove and inspect pump cone oil,wear ring,and if impeller shaft has play you need
bearings. Again if it needs attention do it now or send it to DR Honda with carbs to be redone
6. We know you have spark b/c it fires.
7. Compression tests Should be number#1. Know if you have a good motor first!!

If you want a quick test to determine your problem run a hose from 5 gal jug of fresh gas mixed with 16 oz of the API oil.
If it fires and works then its from your selector. Then just bypass it and run reserve fuel line to carb inlet
If same problem then its the carb.

You also need to search for a manual. It is invaluable information to restore ski if you have no knowledge on what things are.
Manual has pictures and detailed instructions if your not getting the help you keep asking for???

And I'm sure there is more but lets start there

 

[Seadoobuddy]

I bet his friend didn't do a pop-off test on the carbs.

 

[ocod]

yea i was close to the shore and just put it onshore so it didnt float away. but still far from the boat ramp. bout 1 / 2 mile and the shore is rocks so its kinda hard to pull it down to the ramp because it keeps hitting the rocks.

well i think my problem is that im getting to much fuel in the carb. someone told me it was the needle in the carb..can it be?

it turns over just fine. even if i gas it all the way it will sound like it wants to run. but it doesn't. one time it ran today for about 20 seconds and i hit the stop switch so i could push it in the water and then it wouldn't run. and then the battery died. its currently charging. its a brand new pwc battery..

the spark plugs are sparking fine but it seems they are way to wet.

Again that points to the carbs being a problem. Needle can be sticking open b/c of aftermarket diaphragm and causing rich condition
The red button one is oem. Theres difference in the height of that pusher and you can see the rib around diaphragm in different spot.
picture credit Dr Honda

 

[ocod]

I bet his friend didn't do a pop-off test on the carbs.

You know its hard to say that is only cause b/c he said it ran for hours with out issues. problem started after he ran out of fuel??

 

[Seadoobuddy]

ahhhhh that's true.

could the carb suck air in after running out of gas and maybe tear the diaphragm? IDK just asking?

 

[ocod]

He has to report compression to know motor is good. Then determine if fuel is restricted through selector by doing test like I mentioned above or just disconnect hoses and start blowing to see if there is an obstruction? .
Or if after compression is good tear in carbs.
Verify proper pop off then open it up and see if OEM diaphragm was used and if everything is clean.

 

[miamiboy33155]

i never did a compression test yet.. i have torn the carb apart (myself) and i find no screen in the pump body..the round diaphragm is soft but not torn.. there are two little round plastic in the pump body and one is torn a little on the edge.(this is the two clear plastics on the body)

the needle was sticking at first when i pressed it but then seemed fine. i have it all torn apart. what pieces do i need to replace....

the shop manual pretty much tells you how to take it apart and put it back together. i have one on my pc.

oh and the diaphragm has the red dot

 

[miamiboy33155]

what is a pop off test

He has to report compression to know motor is good. Then determine if fuel is restricted through selector by doing test like I mentioned above or just disconnect hoses and start blowing to see if there is an obstruction? .
Or if after compression is good tear in carbs.
Verify proper pop off then open it up and see if OEM diaphragm was used and if everything is clean.

 

[ocod]

i never did a compression test yet.. i have torn the carb apart (myself) and i find no screen in the pump body..the round diaphragm is soft but not torn.. there are two little round plastic in the pump body and one is torn a little on the edge.(this is the two clear plastics on the body)

the needle was sticking at first when i pressed it but then seemed fine. i have it all torn apart. what pieces do i need to replace....

the shop manual pretty much tells you how to take it apart and put it back together. i have one on my pc.

oh and the diaphragm has the red dot

So no fuel filter? that wasn't good. You can get just that.
The round check valve probably not major but should be replaced.
Pop off checks the pressure needed to open the needle.
you can still do compression check with out the carb

 

[miamiboy33155]

here's some pics of the carb apart.

 

[miamiboy33155]

should the port in the first pic be connected to the port on the second pic. the second one is on the lower rear part of the engine, below the carb.....there is also another tiny port on the front side of the carb right below the air filter. should anything be connected here...

i cant seem to find this in the manual anywhere's

 

[96spxpos]

miamiboy,
so you're telling me, that when you took that carb apart, in pic #3 in POST #61, right where the side of your thumb is, to the left of those two ports, theres about a 1/4 inch deep hole where a micro-filter goes, you're telling me there was no microfilter that popped out?? if thats the case, your friend NEVER put all the parts back in the carb...a carb is not like parts in a car, where you can forget to put in like 1 of 12 screws and be okay..
EVERY PART in a carb is in there for a reason...
So i have a feeling this is just the beginning of your problems....
I'm just being honest, you NEED to do what OCOD said and send it to DOC HONDA or another professional, so they can analyze it, see what you're missing, and put it back together the RIGHT way, or you're gonna have continuous fuel delivery problems...
So, was there no filter in there?

 

[96spxpos]

Look where i circled

HAHAH, you like my advanced paint.net skills huh?
Miamiboy, where i circled, that's where the filter/screen should be...nothing was in there?

 

[miamiboy33155]

that is exactly right. no such filter or screen was in there. that would explain why i was getting to much gas, at one point.?

i cant really afford any mechanics at this point. i am very mechanical experienced, but only with cars..i am sure i can do all of the work myself, i just have to find all the problems out. i have a manual and i am studying it little by little so i can get familiar with it...

do i need that oil line hooked up in pic 1 of post #62?.....remember i am premixing the gas

9962[/ATTACH]

 

[miamiboy33155]

hahah, you like my advanced paint.net skills huh?

nice skills.

 

[96spxpos]

I understand about not being able to afford a mechanic...
Then what you NEED to do,
is take WHATEVER PARTS YOU DO HAVE, buy the GENUINE rebuild kit, CAREFULLY look at the exploded diagram(s) of the carb from the manual, and figure out WHAT pieces you're missing..also CLEAN any build-up in the carb body...inside & out...
Like i said before, if you are missing ANY pieces, or pieces are STICKING, replace them...and dont try riding unless its done..You'll just make it worse...

A little word of advice, which I've already previously mentioned....
If your carb is MISSING A FILTER, GOD only knows what other critical or not-so-critical parts are missing from your ski...
I know you said you're looking over the manual little by little, but you NEED to give that ski a SOLID once-over, perhaps even twice-over...
And I know I said it helps to have a second set of eyes, but please, for your sake, and the sake of your ski, DONT let that second set of eyes be your friend who did your carb....

do your carb(s) over the right way, and I can almost guarantee that'll take care of your fuel problems..
But as others have mentioned, you also gotta look over all the other things too, like in-line filters, fuel selector valves, etc...

As far as your pic(s) with the oil lines, I can't tell... The manual will tell you all you need to know as far as what that is, where it connects to, etc...

ESPECIALLY since you don't have money for a mechanic...just make sure you inspect and look over everything, so no further damage is done the next time you go out riding...
These things and their parts can add up and get pretty pricey...

Good Luck !!!!! Let us know how it works out

 

[miamiboy33155]

ok i have been looking over the whole ski and the carb. the only thing that is missing in the carb is that filter.. the inline filter has been cleaned, so has the selector valve everything seems to be in order. except when i get to the fuel return line. for some reason it goes from the fuel pump and into the side of the engine, close to the front. i cant see in the manual that the return lines go to the engine.i thought it was supposed to go back to the tank..idk..just asking.. o

for the oil lines. the manual says that it is the oil injection lines( there are two clear very small hoses) one is full with oil like its supposed to but the other is just simply not there...so far everything else looks good.

can you tell me where the best place for getting that rebuild kit for the carb..and the best in prices..

 

[miamiboy33155]

is it the impulse hose that goes into the engine block? i cant really tell by looking at the diagram in the manual

 

[ocod]

yep.
there should be a nipple on a plate on top of the in/out gas lines.
That nipple goes to block

 

[miamiboy33155]

yep.
there should be a nipple on a plate on top of the in/out gas lines.
That nipple goes to block

thats the impulse line? the one in the middle? the one coming out of the fuel pump body? just making sure

 

[ocod]

it should be labeled pluse by the nipple..
Its the first(cover) of the fuel filter side

 

[miamiboy33155]

it should be labeled pluse by the nipple..
Its the first(cover) of the fuel filter side

ok yea thats the one....thanks

 

[ocod]

that is exactly right. no such filter or screen was in there. that would explain why i was getting to much gas, at one point.?

i cant really afford any mechanics at this point. i am very mechanical experienced, but only with cars..i am sure i can do all of the work myself, i just have to find all the problems out. i have a manual and i am studying it little by little so i can get familiar with it...

do i need that oil line hooked up in pic 1 of post #62?.....remember i am premixing the gas

If your mixing get rid of pump and put block off.
If you been premixing and pump working at same time that's twice the oil.
Choose which one your going to go with.

 

[miamiboy33155]

well i think i just want to stay with premix, can u explain a little about eliminating the pump. and what line do i block. i remember s/o saying that i still nee oil in the tank for the rotary valve.

If your mixing get rid of pump and put block off.
If you been premixing and pump working at same time that's twice the oil.
Choose which one your going to go with.