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wont stay running

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miamiboy33155

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Hi to all. i am new to this forum because i just purchased a 92 sea doo sp bombardier for $100. i got everything running right but it wont stay running unless i hold down the switch to start it. i cleaned the carb. replaced all fuel lines and its getting gas and everything. as soon as i let off of the button it dies. also it smokes a lot. can any one help me out i would really like to be on the water today.. thanks in advance..
 
miamiboy, Welcome to the club.
You'll get more replies if you post this in the 2 stroke section.
home page, scroll down , click on 2 stroke, click on "start new thread" then post your question.

start/stop switch may be bad....can you hear 2 clicks one when you press it and the 2nd when you let go?...even if you do it's probably bad. A couple guys here sells parts.....pm minnetaonk4me or 99spxxx for details.

Oil - what type are you using?
 
The fact that you premix (read that in another thread) means you are going to smoke more than the average 2 stroke. Also, since you are not running for long, you may just need to burn out excess oil in cylinders and it will eventually not smoke as much once you get it running.

Going to agree with seadoobuddy (who is on a roll today with answers) that the first place to look for your issue is the start/stop switch.
 
:agree::agree:
With BOTH of them.... Mine's a 96 and the button was sooo worn, that it wouldn't start, then if i pressed it hard enough, it would start, but then wouldnt shut off until i pulled the lanyard..
I had an extra one and used that, but I imagine them to be fairly cheap...SBT has one for like $2.00, but that MIGHT just be the botton itself...
Yours is a 92, so odds are yours is way more worn out then mine..
Heres how i did mine:
used a phillips head screwdriver to unscrew the four screws on the bottom corners of the handlebar pad.
remove styrofoam padding.
inside the left handle assembly, (depending on year) there may be a plastic retaining clip (your's probably doesnt bc I doubt a 92 has VTS controls) unscrew that (if it has it) and remember how you put it in.
then slide out the start button from the handle assembly, splice the old one out and wire the new one in..
I made sure I firmly connected the wires together, then I tightly taped them together with electrical tape, cuz i've got crazy amounts of salt in the air down here..
Hope this helps...
 
Miami said "hi, thanks for the info. i just reposted in the 2 stroke section. i am using regular 2 cycle oil. i premixed it to bypass the oil tank. oh and i hear 2 clicks "

2 cycle oil like the one you would use for a 2 cycle lawn mower...if so I believe that's the wrong kind..You want 2 stroke "oil injected oil (RIGHT GUYS..HELP ME HERE) made for PWC's...even with premix???????
 
theres tcw-2, which i think ppl used to use in lawnmowers and chainsaws and it wasnt that good
 
no i believe he can use it, as long as its tcw-3 ashless oil

No, this is wrong...well...he can use it, it just won't be the right kind and will damage his engine, although it would most likely be a slow death.

He needs to use an API-TC low ash rated injection oil, I believe the recommended is the blend (mineral & synthetic mix). No need for a full synthetic.

I really hope you are not using just your ordinary 2 stroke lawnmower oil, miamiboy. If so, my advice would be don't even touch your ski until you learn a little more about it.
 
Another question, when you went to premix, are you still running oil from the tank to the oil pump as well or did you block it off properly? This would also make you smoke a great deal.

Second, you still need oil in the oil tank to lubricate the rotary valve.
 
wow so many replies

THANKS ALOT FOR THE INFO. i was on the water with it for a couple of hours and it ran great. i screwed something over the button to hold it down and now it starts everytime. :thumbsup:. is this dangerous in any way?(holding the button down i mean)

i used regular 2 stroke oil the cheapest one at walmart. i mixed it with the gas 6 oz to 2 gallons of gas. i did not stop up the oil tank, but it is empty. do i need to put oil in it?

i guess i will be using better oil for now on since it is important. (i thought it was all the same) which one would you recommended from walmart. i do not have any seadoo shops around me for a long distance..

o and btw the button im talking about is not on the handle bar its below the handle bar right in front of the seat cover. next to the gas valve. its the second button. closer to the center.

thanks
 
40:1 is recommended...you are at 42.6:1, so you are NOT close enough. Actually you need 3.2oz per gallon of gas for 40:1. So add a little of oil...about .4 -.5 oz to be sure. That's half an ounce.
You need oil in the tank to lube the rotary valve(i think that's the name). Keep the line connected to the bottom of engine to the oil tank.
DON"T RUN IT AGAIN UNTIL YOU DO IT.

Order a new switch from minnetonka4me or his bro 99spxxx.........pretty cheap with shipping
 
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On the '92s is not like the 95-96 ect, a start/stop switch that opens & closes. Instead that model has a safety lanyard that turns ignition on, and a start switch next to it to crank the engine. On the handlebar is a stop switch that is normally closed, meaning circuit/current is flowing thru. When it goes bad it is open, just like you have a battery cable removed from the battery lug. If you stop cranking, the circuit is open.
Miamiboy, take the front basket out, look for the connector that has a black with stripe and other black coming out of the steering column.
disconnect and jumper the two wires in the harness side connector to close the circuit and re-try start-up.
 
40:1 is recommended...you are at 42.6:1, so you are close enough. better more than less. Actually you need 3.2oz per gallon of gas for 40:1.
You need oil in the tank to lube the rotary valve(i think that's the name). Keep the line connected to the bottom of engine to the oil tank.
DON"T RUN IT AGAIN UNTIL YOU DO IT.

Order a new switch from minnetonka4me or his bro 99spxxx.........pretty cheap with shipping

Maybe the switchtower still has the threaded plastic & pusher, if he does he can just buy a lanyard switch nut to secure to the dash and the safety lanyard attaches to that. Item #20
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/seadooforums/Seadoo_oem/Seadoo_PWC.asp?Type=13&A=7&B=7
 
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bills86e - Good to know. I guess the early models had a lot of easier/different stuff on them.

Are Seadoo skis your line of work? Did you just acquire knowledge by fiddeling with them for so long?
 
thanks

Maybe the switchtower still has the threaded plastic & pusher, if he does he can just buy a lanyard switch nut to secure to the dash and the safety lanyard attaches to that. Item #20
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/seadooforums/Seadoo_oem/Seadoo_PWC.asp?Type=13&A=7&B=7

first off thanks for all of your help, everyone. ok do i put the same 2 cycle oil in the oil tank? how much should i put?

also what switch is it that i need to buy. it is just a metal button now. nothing on top of it or anything.
 
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Reread post #8 for the oil. Also search the forum for correct oil info.
You do need to refill the oil tank with proper oil that's made for PWC.
 
you need to put a landyard to hold it down. so if you fall off, it gets pulled off and thus shuts off ski...
 
you need to put a landyard to hold it down. so if you fall off, it gets pulled off and thus shuts off ski...

Post# 18 X2

Your "safety Lanyard" cap pushes the pusher pin into the switch to turn on the ignition. Normally you connect the cap and then to yourself in case you fall off it turns the ignition off so the ski stops, then you can retreive/get back on it.
The pic on right is this switch. Get yourself a NON-DESS lanyard, and go ride!
 
Yup..........When buying my '96spx new met the Hulkster who was buying a new 787 and had a HOOT riding. (NWO) Chateu De Willadel

I love the outdoors and ride often as I can, but still fall off! :cheers:
 
Post# 18 X2

Your "safety Lanyard" cap pushes the pusher pin into the switch to turn on the ignition. Normally you connect the cap and then to yourself in case you fall off it turns the ignition off so the ski stops, then you can retreive/get back on it.
The pic on right is this switch. Get yourself a NON-DESS lanyard, and go ride!

ok i'll see if the local boat store has one to match. i just purchased a qt of pwc oil. im guessing i can put half in the oil tank. is this enough?
 
I just read post #3, says you are mixing. Either way, useing injection or pre-mixing, you need oil in the tank RV gear line to feed two-stroke oil
as a lubricant for the gears in this crank lower case cavity. Because the crankshaft seals on each side on these gears can leak (most do) and need to be compatable as a combustible material that can mix in with the fuel entering the lower cases.
 
you have an older ski, so im not sure the size of your oil tank, but i went to premix as well, and was told to keep that tak at LEAST half full..and a quart won't do it...
 
I would pour the whole quart into the tank until it's about half full or so at LEAST and KEEP an eye on it to make sure you don't run low.
Keep another quart with you on the ski is a good idea too.
 
so i looked at the parts finder, funny how everytime i need to look for a specific part, or looking at a part (in this case, finding your #20), its ALWAYS covered up by the HSLM's MICROFICHE..pain in the ass...
Anyway, Miami, on your parts finder and in your pic, that round tittie lookin thing on the left says its the "starter" switch...so you push that thing in? or is it like a toggle?
 
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