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wont start ?

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zx10r

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So yester day im riding my 2004 rxp and we were doing about 45 mph and it just shut off and now it wont re start i checked the coils they all have spark checked all the fuses all are fine and it seems to have fuel pressure up to the check value im at a loss so any help would be awesome...
 
what happens when you press the start/stop button w/o the lanyard attached?

Do the gauges light up?
 
nothing happens when the lanyard is out never new anything should happen when you press the start stop button
 
on the 4tecs, nothing happens when you press the start button with the lanyard off. the 2 stroke guys are used to the gauges lighting up but this isn't the case on the 4 strokes. you have to have the lanyard attached for it to do anything.

need a little more info. does it turn over normally? does it start to fire at all?

could be fuel pump, have you checked fuel pressure? just pull the 2 bolts to remove the fuel rail and see if they squirt when trying to start.

have you checked compression?

if you have well timed spark, fuel, and compression, it should at least try to start or pop.
 
So yester day im riding my 2004 rxp and we were doing about 45 mph and it just shut off and now it wont re start i checked the coils they all have spark checked all the fuses all are fine and it seems to have fuel pressure up to the check value im at a loss so any help would be awesome...

How old are the spark plugs? Have you tried a different set of plugs? I don't know why but they do go bad and can go bad all at once without warning, mine almost did the same as yours Fall of 2011 it went from running fine to barely barely running in a split second barely managed to get back to the boat launch with it... turned out after lots of hair-pulling, the spark plugs (at least 1 or 2) had gone bad. New set of plugs, runs great again! And yes my old spark plugs looked just like new (no wear on the electrodes and no signs of fouling or anything... at 1st I thought they were my new plugs they even sparked when I took them out of the head and plugged them into the coils laying atop the engine... but it barely ran with them; finally found my REAL new plugs and put them in, runs great now!).

If you haven't tried a change of spark plugs yet, do so! Even if the installed ones seem to spark ok they can be bad.

- Michael
 
on the 4tecs, nothing happens when you press the start button with the lanyard off. the 2 stroke guys are used to the gauges lighting up but this isn't the case on the 4 strokes. you have to have the lanyard attached for it to do anything.

need a little more info. does it turn over normally? does it start to fire at all?

could be fuel pump, have you checked fuel pressure? just pull the 2 bolts to remove the fuel rail and see if they squirt when trying to start.

have you checked compression?

if you have well timed spark, fuel, and compression, it should at least try to start or pop.

well i have all the above so i seen that the oil looked a little milky so i took the valvl cover off and a couple of hoses took the cooling tube off and there it was to valve heads sitting in the bottom of the tube so im pulling the motor to see how bad it is hopefully its all in the top end and didnt damage the block...ill keep you posted on what happens the motor only has 85 hours on it so cant beleave it but will deal with it ...:banghead::banghead:
 
Ah man! That bites! :-(

How did the valve heads get inside the "cooling tube"? I'm a little confused where you found these valve heads... if the valve head breaks off the stem it's got nowhere to go but down into the cylinder where it'll then get all banged around by the piston and wreak havoc.

By "cooling tube" I'm assuming you mean the coolant hose that runs to the head from the waterpump?

Small consolation but at least you got all winter to work on fixing the thing, the summer season is almost over (well at least 2 more months left in my part of Texas, I presume you are in Daytona Florida?).

- Michael
 
yes im in daytona fla. its the tube that if you are looking at it from the back its on the left hand side big silver tube that hold about 2 gallons of water i think when i went two run water thru it with out it started it pushed the vavle heads into the tube is my guess
 
so i opened the motor yesterday and man did that vavle wreck havoc it tore up the head and it destoyed the piston ....i want to fix it but i think it would be better for me to buy a long block and do it that way any one no were i can get a good rebuilt long block...
 
How is it you didn't hear it when the valve broke? The engine should have been making terrible noises and almost no power with that valve head banging around inside the cylinder.... :-/

Where you actually on it when the engine just shut off at 45 mph without warning (or was somebody else using it, and that's what they told you happened)?

Is it an exhaust valve head or intake valve head that broke? I've read that the hollow sodium filled exhaust valve stems are bad about cracking due to corrosion that develops over the wintertime if not properly winterized, then breaks completely off when run later on in the summer season.

The only sources I can think of for a replacement engine block would be SBT (google it) or search Ebay for a few weeks (often parted out engine blocks can be found there). Be sure to get 1 for your year model, I'm not certain how generic the engine block is across year models. Somebody had a PTO housing for sale on Ebay the other day for a 2006 4TEC engine, said it would not fit his 2005 4TEC engine quite right and he'd had to buy 1 specifically for his 2005 4TEC engine instead... so evidentally there are some differences to be found in these engine blocks.

- Michael
 
ya my 14 teen year old son was riding it but i was riding not 2 min. before this happened ...and yes it was an exhaust vavles that broke so they are hallow...i did look at sbt site not bad prices but also thought about parting out to see what would happen...ever parted one out is it worth as far as money return...
 
also there a guy close to
my home that i might give a call to see what i can get for the whole thing
 
Parting it out is 1 option, but it's alot of work on your part disassembling and listing for sale and such for each and every part. Another option is if you're not a in a rush to just set up an Ebay search that e-mails you "2004 (4TEC, 4-TEC, SeaDoo, Sea Doo)" parts listings every day until you get a good used engine block and head listing (possibly in seperate listings), buy or win them then transfer your PTO assembly and all over to them and re-install in the hull. You can be breaking down your existing engine in the meantime and getting the service manual (for assembly steps and torque procedures and settings) and new head gasket and stretch bolts in preparation for a new good-used engine case and head. You might even find a complete short-block listed for sale, I see them on Ebay often enough for these year model's.

Or you can list the entire thing on Craigslist for sale as-is just as it's sitting and let somebody else deal with it. It won't bring a whole lot though someone will probably pick it up from you in short order... even from on here you might be able to make a deal with someone for th entire lot as it sits. Just depends on whether you want to mess with it over this winter, or just get out of it entirely and move on.

If you got the patience and are willing to learn you can get it back together again and you'll know the inside of these machines like the back of your hand once you're done I can assure you! LOL!

Regards and good luck!

ps. You might want to be looking at pulling the head off your RXT and replacing it's hollow sodium filled exhaust valves with the updated valves over this winter, just so it doesn't end up in the same sad condition as the RXP has! Have you checked it's supercharger lately and how many hours are on it is it due a supercharger rebuild and does it have the OEM ceramic supercharger slip-washers still also? They're bad mojo man, very very bad! :-(

- Michael
 
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