Winterizing a XPL 951 Fog/Coolant Locations

[wreckless]

I think I know what I am doing but before I put them away for the winter can someone confirm what I have below?

I am fogging into the horns of the airbox. Does not seem super effective but I am hoping it will work.



I plug off main drain line and I am running antifreeze down the two fittings on the pipe and into the head at the main hose going into the head. All circled in red below.



I am also running stabilizer in gas. That would complete the winterization. Correct? Thanks for any help.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

I think you're better off spraying the fogging oil right directly into the carbs. The reason is, much of the oil will be lost to the inside of the airbox. So, remove the airbox to fog while running with no water and squirt oil like mad. to get a nice plume of smoke quickly before the engine can heat up. Once you feel like you're in Beijing shut if off, this might take 30 seconds if you're quick with and can get the oil going.

Running the engine without water pushes unwanted water out of the exhaust. Engines with interference type rubber impeller cooling water pump should never be run without water, even for a few seconds. That's not the limitation for the seadoo 951, you can run for up to a minute with no water. I don't remember last time I connected a hose to mine, it's rare, but I live on the boat ramp practically.

I fog many motors in a day, so I have a pressurized portable tank and the oil squirts fast enough I could wet you down before you realized what hit you. Some aerosol cans are from capable of producing a good strong stream so in that case I put oil in a squirt bottle (like a windex bottle) and go to town with that.

I like to fog without water on b/c that leaves less water in the exhaust and it doesn't take long to get that plume of smoke if the fogging setup is "fine tuned".

If you have any doubts about sufficient protection oil just remove the spark plugs, if wet with oil you got her done. If not at that point then squirt some in the cylinders, a couple tablespoons, ground the plug wires and crank her over to distribute the oil and be prepared oil might fly out, so cover the plug holes with a rag.

Next I go to it using the 100% pink RV antifreeze.... Assuming this is carbed, it's an easy process, DI is more involved.

Down at the bottom of the engine block you'll find the block cooling water drain tube attached to a nipple, on the starboard side down low in the center of the engine between the two cylinders. Pinch this line using a hemostat, so antifreeze will fill the cylinder block.

Disconnect cooling hose at top of engine cylinder head and pour 100% RV antifreeze into the head hose nipple until pink antifreeze begins spilling out the hose flush port on the jet pump. Now the system is full and water is displaced with antifreeze.

Wait a minute then remove hemostat, the system should drain and empty out the block drain that exits near the lower edge of the jet pump. under the control cable starboard side. If it doesn't drain it's clogged, and that's a problem.

Take the battery out or leave it in disconnected, bla, bla,bla Also remove the transom drain plug(s) to avoid sinking on the trailer. I see lots of boats are damaged badly b/c the drain plug was left in the transom. Spray mist the engine and drive shaft using protective oil to reduce chance of corrosion. Try to get some in behind the PTO to keep crankshaft from rusting.

That should do it, install the s-plugs to keep out moisture..

 

[wreckless]

You don't put any antifreeze in the pipe?

 

[pwgsx]

I use the flush fitting and pump the pink stuff using a old bilge pump with the engine running. I fog right into the carbs so remove the airbox and also some in the spark plug holes. Use Stabil on your last ride so it gets into the carbs. I also run the ski on RES and On so both lines are treated.

 

[shift95]

Hey guys i have a question on this as well .......Do you have to fog through the carbs? It seams like a bad idea to spray oil into the carbs ? won't it gum them up ?

 

[wreckless]

Fogging oil is designed to fog into the carbs. It will not hurt the carbs.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

If anything, spraying oil through the carbs will coat them with oil somewhat thus tend to reduce corrosion. The oil is soluble in fuel so the fuel will wash it away next spring in the case it pools.

By pinching the block drain and pouring antifreeze into the head cooling water nipple and allowing it to run out the pump support flush tube, that antifreeze goes through the expansion pipe, so pour until the pink stuff coming out the flush port looks to be full strength pink. At first, it will have some water mixed in it from the low spot in the hose that runs from the bottom of the pipe to the pump support.

Then most of the pink stuff will run out of the block drain once the block drain pinch is removed. Some will be trapped in the cylinder block, maybe a few ounces, and in the low spots of the hoses.

The strategy is slightly different perhaps for the 1998 version of the 951, which flows water backwards from the later version. In that case the cooling water source from the jet pump was plumbed to the bottom of the pipe and exited the cylinder head. I'm not sure I'd change from the previous described antifreeze injection strategy but might based on what I see/encounter while doing it.

But 1999 951 cooling system should be same as my 2001, so pour the pink stuff into a hose connected to the cylinder head nipple while the block drain is pinched. This will mix with and push out any remaining water then drain out the pinched block drain once the pincher is removed.

You can fog while running on water hose if you need to, but try to blow water out the exhaust before shutting down or simply spray the fogging oil into the spark plug holes once the exhaust water is blown out by running then rotate the engine to spread the oil over the iron cylinder walls to coat them. The idea is to displace any remaining water in the cooling jackets and hoses with the pink stuff and coat the cylinder walls with fogging oil to avoid rusting the cylinders from atmospheric moisture remaining in the exhaust.