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winterized but put coolant into exhaust, tube....now what?

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coolantflush

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i read the manual wrong.....2003 xpdi......it said take the tube off of the bottom, an hook up a tube with a half in diameter, but i hooked up a tube back to the regulator i pulled the bottom tube off of, an then dumped about four gallon of antifreeze mixture, but then realized, i hooked the tube up to the exhaust an dumped it all in there, an maybe thru the top tube above the bottom tube i hooked to.....i took the clamps offf the exhaust tube by the back an got out about two gallons an flushed about one more galloon of hot water thru the tube i originally poured into, so now what should i do, go put it in the lake roll it counter clock wise an seee if any got up in to the cylinders, but not sure if it rolled anywher else in the motor from that top tub in the regulator if it got thru....any knowledge on this screw up.......i was a bit tired an read the directions wrong.......how do i pull myself out of this one without any damage....?..thanks any help would help...an can i move this to the two stroke thread?
 
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i got to take a snooze, so when you guys are done laughing, i will catch up to your posts if anybody got any insight tommorow.....thanks....i got to get this thing running again so i can keep the coast guard in business by spring:) an i got the year long membership, cause it may take that long to figure this one out?
 
Pull the plugs and crank the engine. You will KNOW if you got coolant into the engine. If not, then re-winterize the engine. Having antifreeze in the exhaust will hurt nothing. It will be gone on the first start up. As an added bonus,,, on 4-techengine, when the engine is shut off, all 12 valves are in the close position. Thus making it nearly impossible to get coolant into the engine.
 
okay, i was a bit worried, that the coolant made it around the top, to the beginning of the exhaust, an didnt want to crank it, thinking the exhaust valves would open up an then suck the fluid in, an i am missing two gallons, so not sure, where that went?.......
 
I'm still doing some digging on why the manual states you MUST pinch the hose when towed to prevent water ingestion. If all the vales are closed, it can't ingest water, That said, the water could fill the exhaust and even up to the exhaust ports of the head. But the compression will clear that water I would think.
 
Exhaust valves on a 4-tech engine never suck, unless they are broken,, LOL They release AFTER the compression stroke.
 
Ok,, contacted a specialist with the 4-tech and here is his answers as to why we must still pinch the hose even though the valves are closed...

When the vessel is being driven under its own propulsion the jet unit supplies water around the exhaust system and intercooler if applicable.
This cooling water is then dispelled from the system by the exhaust pressure.

If the engine is not running but the vessel is still moving through the water the effect of the water moving through the jet pump forces the sea water through the system and fills it up completely including the exhaust manifold which is meant to stay dry.
This build up of water can cause issues when trying to restart the motor as the water creates a barrier that prevents exhaust gasses from leaving the cylinder thus preventing it from running, also the water sitting on the back of the exhaust valves can potentially leak into the cylinder during cranking which in turn can cause obvious damage to the engine components and further prevent the motor from running.

The clamping of the inlet pipe is a precautionary measure to prevent the system filling if the vessel is being towed for prolonged periods or at cruising speed, however short tows at idle speed typically do not cause an issue.

I hope that the above is an adequate explanation.
 
A couple of points to comment on:

1. It is not correct that the 4 TEC engine stops with all valves closed, even thought BRP manuals say they do. They *almost" are all closed. If you ever investigate this like I have, you will see that there is no true point where all valves are completely closed.

2. There is a much simpler way to winterize all Sea Doo skis built since the inception of the flush port in 1997. I have a drill pump with a short length of garden hose with male fitting on the outlet, and a short length of blank hose on the inlet. You attach the garden hose to the flush port, attach a cordless drill to the drill pump, stick the inlet hose in a jug of RV antifreeze, start engine, pump antifreeze until you see pink out the exhaust and pisser, stop pumping, blip throttle, done. I can do several skis in the time everyone else is just started monkeying around with the stupid methods in the service manual. And you won't make simple mistakes like the one you did.
 
can you put up a video on how to do this. what is a drill pump.........an what is the difference between the inlet tube an the flush port? i hooked up the garden hose to what i thought was the flush port on the right side to flush it, an water shot out the side pisser so i think i got the flush tube hook up right, but why cant you hook up the garden hose to the inlet on the left side, an just hook the hose up to like a five gallon bucket of antifreeze an run that thru to winterize?
 
before the dilema above, i ran antifreeze into a hose into the flush port on the right side an started it but nothing came out the pisser....?:drool5:
 
okay, i just went out an took the plugs out after a week of losing two gallons of antifreeze in the exhaust, an did not find any antifreeze in ther.......took a q tip an taped it to a screw driver an came out with only some oil residue on the bottom of the spark plug cavern....thats good right:dupe:
 
coolantflush said:
can you put up a video on how to do this. what is a drill pump.........an what is the difference between the inlet tube an the flush port? i hooked up the garden hose to what i thought was the flush port on the right side to flush it, an water shot out the side pisser so i think i got the flush tube hook up right, but why cant you hook up the garden hose to the inlet on the left side, an just hook the hose up to like a five gallon bucket of antifreeze an run that thru to winterize?
Click to expand...

I was going to create a video for this, but didn't get around to it. There is no inlet tube on the left side, that is a molded boss that is not used. The inlet is in the pump mount itself and not accessible externally. The flush port you hooked up the garden hose on the right is where you hook up the pressurized system I am talking about.

Google drill pump or go to Amazon, there are tons of them out there.

I have a cheap $10 one from Tractor Supply and it works fine.
 
i hooked up a hose with acouple feet an just put a funnel in it an ran antifreeze until it stopped but, i didnt know it had to be pressurized for sure.....so i will go get a drill pump today an try it that way....i thought about filling up the full length garden hose with antifreeze then hooking it up to the faucet when full, an turning it on, an putting a clear attach ment to see when the water got to the inlet tube, but your idea sounds better, thanks

once i found a drill pump, your idea made sense. :thumbsup:
 
Correct me if I'm wrong but this is an XPDI thus it's a 2-stroke engine, correct? Regardless, I would remove the spark plugs, ground the plug wires, and hold the throttle in full open position while cranking the engine while observing for the presence of liquid coming from the cylinders.

If no liquid is present, I would reinstall the spark plugs and start the engine briefly to clear remaining liquid from the exhaust system.

If this is a 4-stroke engine and liquid has entered the cylinders, recovery will involve changing the engine oil and filter several times with a brief running period between oil changes to clear the contamination from the crankcase.

After the engine is running again, proceed with the winterization process as per the service manual. The lower case of the DI engine has a water jacket in it that needs to be winterized as per the service manual procedure.

And, I think we're discussing antifreeze in this case, not coolant. There's a huge difference in toxicity between these two.
 
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ya, its a 2003 xpdi, hold on i am going to face the exhaust at my neighbors yard, an going to go turn it over, i will be back...........now, will that drill pumping antifreeze, into the flush port, .....get into that water jack.........

an i put in a fifty fifty mixture of antifreeze an distilled water...............originally..........ya, when i say coolant, i am meaning antifreeze mixture....or should it be a sixty antifreeze/forty water mixture...

an in the manual it says to ...pour antifreeze mix in engine until the colored solution appears at the cooling system bleed outlet.....this tube is black so you cant see the coolant....is that the tube that runs to the pisser hole on the left side front....so is it saying when coolant is flowing out of that then pinch off the hose?
 
nothing really came out, as i started it, an flushed it again with the water hose, going to go throw it in the lake for a five minute ride an start the process again.......forty five degrees aint going to hurt running it in is it?
 
coolantflush said:
nothing really came out, as i started it, an flushed it again with the water hose, going to go throw it in the lake for a five minute ride an start the process again.......forty five degrees aint going to hurt running it in is it?
Click to expand...

No, but in cooler temperatures, let the engine warm up a bit before you take off.
 
you guys give up ?......well i tried the manual again, an i got antifreeze coming out the flush tube, but dont see any coming out the bottom drain tube with the black clip together or the air compressor tube?.......an it was flowing out the bottom outlet below the flush tube........was something not pinched off good enough? i might have to take this one in?
 
Mixing antifreeze with water depends on the type of antifreeze you're using. If you are using the non-toxic -50 recreational vehicle propylene glycol antifreeze then don't mix it with water. This is the antifreeze type that I prefer, b/c it's non-toxic. If you're using the toxic ethylene glycol automotive coolant then you can mix that 50:50.

The DI engine cooling system is fairly complex, thus I don't recommend just trying to pump antifreeze through unless you have the proper equipment (A 720 GPH bilge pump mounted in the bottom of a 25 gallon antifreeze catch tank under the ski with 10 gallons of antifreeze), I think it's best to follow the service manual procedure.

The reason for this is b/c the air pump and the lower crankcase cooling jacket must be flushed with antifreeze and there is a necessary sequence involved which is clearly described in the factory service manual. Otherwise by using a drill pump, you have no control of the route the antifreeze will take while traveling through the cooling system.

If you have the catch tank setup like I use (described above), you can simply circulate antifreeze through the entire cooling system for several minutes at high flow (720 GPH bilge pump has good flow) as the antifreeze falls out of bottom of ski into catch tank and is recirculated by the catch tank bilge pump while the engine is idling. This is how a professional shop should be doing it, and this method will thoroughly get all of the water out.

In the case of the 951 DI, I have no confidence a drill pump connected to the flush port will send enough antifreeze through all the cooling circuits with sufficient force and volume to thoroughly flush the water away (ie: Air Pump circuit and lower crankcase cooling cover circuit).

Thus, I suggest you choose to follow the service manual procedure.
 
coolantflush said:
you guys give up ?......well i tried the manual again, an i got antifreeze coming out the flush tube, but dont see any coming out the bottom drain tube with the black clip together or the air compressor tube?.......an it was flowing out the bottom outlet below the flush tube........was something not pinched off good enough? i might have to take this one in?
Click to expand...

The antifreeze should drain out as soon as the pincher is removed, not before the pincher is removed. If the antifreeze just runs out the bottom of the ski as you pour it in, there's a pincher missing from somewhere.

Basically, you're pinching the water drains and filling the water jackets full of antifreeze then one by one removing the pinchers to cause the antifreeze to take a deliberate path through each circuit.
 
I would use 5 pinchers:

If you pinch the cooling line that feeds to the waterbox RAVE, I think you cannot flood the exhaust system. Then pinch all the drains (Engine cylinder drain, crankcase water jacket drain, air pump drain, exhaust manifold drain, and then fill the cooling system with antifreeze (I'd pour it into cylinder head) until antifreeze exits from pisser.

At this point, the cooling system should be filled with antifreeze.

Then remove the pinchers from top to bottom
*The air pump drain
*Lower crankcase cover drain
*Exhaust Manifold drain
*Engine block cylinder drain
*Waterbox RAVE supply
 
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