So I just got this GSXL recently and it does t have power. Everything looks pretty clean , except this when I took the mpem off. I haven’t been able to get to the grounds yet so maybe that can be it. But I don’t know if this means it’s done for and I need a new mpem. Help?
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What you think
- Thread starter Gingi017
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DanSquires
Well-Known Member
yea that's trashed..
I've got one that i'd let go of pretty reasonably
I've got one that i'd let go of pretty reasonably
Even if it’s to the Speedo?
Ok Ima try that before I spend the money
Venturian1
Active Member
I would clean that blue green crust off the pins with some vinegar, and a tooth brush, then clean the vinegar off with baking soda & water mixed, then use some electrical cleaner, like TV Tuner spray. Do t use brake parts cleaner, it melts some plastics.
Then you’ll need to clean the plug-in pin sockets,
This will require disassembly of the connector.
Good time to locate those grounds and check them with an ohm meter.
Watch for high resistance connections.
If you’ve got lcd gauge, it’s probably the same way.
Venturian1
Active Member
Silicone grease, AKA
ielectric compound, is a good thing to apply to those connectors, fuses, rubber/silicone gaskets.Makes your connections water tight, like they were meant to be, preserves rubber, gasoline does not cut it, in fact I know of nothing that will dissolve it, so far. I use it on the rubber in the fuel selector valve, sparingly tho, don’t want that in your carb. If you’ve ever replaced the check valves in these carbs, it can be very irritating, when the OEM Makuni cost $60 and you damage one of the valves, (the NOT flat, clear disks with a hole in the center), or tear up the new rubber grommet trying to get it in the hole.
A tiny bit of this grease applied with a Q-tip to the inside of the hole in the carb, and some more on the rubber grommet, then place the clear disk with the cupped side down in place, put your greased up grommet on the install tool, and push it in like a pro! You must have the fight tool for the job tho. Mikuni says a 2mm spherical tipped tool works, so I got my calipers out, found an assortment of straight pins for sewing, found one with a 2mm ball on the end, and chucked it up in a drill bit holder I used for cleaning torch welding tips, and it worked perfect! It doesn’t work without the grease tho, nor with an old grommet, they’re too stiff and brittle, and if you puncture the tip of the grommet, the check valve will leak.
Off the topic, yes, but that grease is simply amazing stuff. Pep Boys is where he bought my last tube. It IS, an insulator, so very small voltages could be effected by the insulating properties, but 12Volts is cool.
Trailer light bulbs & sockets, battery terminals…
Put bulb in, or cable on first, then coat the connection to keep moisture out.
Venturian1
Active Member
If your gauges don’t work properly, don’t assume the wiring is all good and condemn the mpem, until you visually inspect all the connections, particularly at the gauge. Most look just like your mpem pins, that I’ve seen so far. The gauges in all of mine (three 97’s GTi, gsx, GSi, and a 2k GTi), have bad gauges due to that blue green oxidation penetrating into the gauge, but what the heck! I don’t have time to look at them anyway when riding.Silicone grease, AKA
Makes your connections water tight, like they were meant to be, preserves rubber, gasoline does not cut it, in fact I know of nothing that will dissolve it, so far. I use it on the rubber in the fuel selector valve, sparingly tho, don’t want that in your carb. If you’ve ever replaced the check valves in these carbs, it can be very irritating, when the OEM Makuni cost $60 and you damage one of the valves, (the NOT flat, clear disks with a hole in the center), or tear up the new rubber grommet trying to get it in the hole.
A tiny bit of this grease applied with a Q-tip to the inside of the hole in the carb, and some more on the rubber grommet, then place the clear disk with the cupped side down in place, put your greased up grommet on the install tool, and push it in like a pro! You must have the fight tool for the job tho. Mikuni says a 2mm spherical tipped tool works, so I got my calipers out, found an assortment of straight pins for sewing, found one with a 2mm ball on the end, and chucked it up in a drill bit holder I used for cleaning torch welding tips, and it worked perfect! It doesn’t work without the grease tho, nor with an old grommet, they’re too stiff and brittle, and if you puncture the tip of the grommet, the check valve will leak.
Off the topic, yes, but that grease is simply amazing stuff. Pep Boys is where he bought my last tube. It IS, an insulator, so very small voltages could be effected by the insulating properties, but 12Volts is cool.
Trailer light bulbs & sockets, battery terminals…
Put bulb in, or cable on first, then coat the connection to keep moisture out.
Now the buzzer…. At the handlebars speaker pointing forward with perforations to let the sound get out, are in a bad place as well.
Moved mine away from the front, where water can get to it, and check it every ride, by unplugging, & grounding the wire on the head (engine temp sensor) when it’s running.
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