• This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.

What it do!!!

Status
Not open for further replies.

dickjorkey

New Member
All I can say is that it is a bad Idea to buy a broken Sea doo. I bought an 1999 challenger 1800 2 months ago with a blown engine. I bought the engine from ebay, installed it and I still havent been able to enjoy my boat. It ends up that now the other engine is messed up (I think). the RPMS go high but it will not accelerate. Anyways, I've spent too much money already on this boat. Thanks that this forum exist so I can do a little research.
 
I think you are describing cavitation. Search cavitation on here and there are a number of threads to describe where to start looking and the ways to fix it. Can you give a better description of what happens?
 
It does indeed sound like cavitation, the most common cause is a worn or damaged wear ring. Check the clearance between the wear ring and the impeller it should be no more than .040" also check for damage. The second most common source for cavitation is the carbon seal, but check the wear ring first.

Lou
 
Awesome, Thanks for the responses. Getting back to ya' I doubt this is the issue (or confirm). I checked the jetpump and it does not seem bad to me. The impeller spins smoothly, not sure if that's a good sign.. So, two things! The person I bought this engine from told me that the engine was rebuilt by SBT and installed by him. I took it to the water and to my surprise the max speed it does is around 8 MPH, although, I accelerate it to 6k rpms. Also, I noticed that it releases a lot of smoke and the engine tries to turn off at that rate so I have to decrease the throttle. When I accelerate the engine the drive shaft also seems to be spinning at its fast rate if you know what I mean.
 
I'll leave it to the others as to why it would try and shut down at 6000 RPM's and the smoke, do both engines do this? The slow speed at high rpm still sounds like cavitation to me. How much clearance do you have between the impeller blades and the wear ring? Also, try posting this in the 2 stroke sea doo boat section of the forum and I bet you'll get more replies.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Where are you in Miami?
Where are you testing the boat?

Markham park is great for testing w/o having to be stranded in ocean.
 
So, in the water, with both engines at 6000 rpm's and having confirmed the driveshafts are spinning at the right speed, you're only getting 8mph?
 
That's correct! Like Lou said, if the issue is with the carbon seal, how do I go about making sure that part is in working condition?
 
check for irregular wear on the carbon ring or the tension of rubber boot against the stainless steel ring.
 
Apparently there are a couple of tricks you can try: you can use zip ties in between the bellows on the accordion boot to put more pressure on the carbon seal, didn't work for me. You can loosen the back ring clamp and move the boot forward a bit and retighten, didn't work for me. And you can try smearing waterproof grease on the face of the carbon seal where it meets the stainless pusher. Didn't work for me. What did work for me, was I replaced the assemblies- new boot, new carbon seal, new ss ring, new o rings inside the ss ring. Mine looked brand new when I pulled them out, but they had failed and now the cavitation is gone. Oh, and if you're driveshaft has more then one indent for your c-clip you can move it one notch closer to the back of the boat. When you push the stainless steel ring towards the back of the boat you will see the c-clip. Have you tried pushing it back before, was it hard to do? Do this stuff out of the water, if you separate the seals in the water it will leak.

That's a whole lot of cavitation, on both sides, crazy. Are you sure your wear rings are ok? Post a pic of them. Also, when you installed the engines, how did you align them? If they are out of alignment those seals won't seal properly.

Basically, I'd suggest just changing the parts, you can buy a carbon ring rebuild kit for pretty cheap. I also replaced my stainless rings but if you choose not to then make sure you at least change the o-rings inside of them.

There may be something else going on - I am not at all an expert. The experts will more likely answer you if you post your problem in the 2 stroke boat section vs the meet and greet. I suggest you do that in case something else has happened, I don't want to feel responsible for more damage.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
hello and thank you all for the help. I removed the left jetpump and you guys were right. the wear ring was all screwed. the distance between the impeller and wear ring was significant spacious. I bought a new wear ring and installed it. I'm hoping now it works. I will take the boat to the water next Friday, i'm confident it will work. I will let you guys know how it goes
 
135.jpg
 

Attachments

  • P09-15-12_16-10.jpg
    P09-15-12_16-10.jpg
    272.5 KB · Views: 3
the reason your motor is bogging and you have to drop the throttle from 6000 rpms is because it IS NOT BROKEN IN YET! be careful with it and go through SBT's break in procedure as listed on there site, my bet is that he threw the new motor in is and sold it. If you dont break that motor in , youll be pulling it back out really quick.
 
So, I took it out to the water yesterday, Yayy (sarcastically speaking). First I was running at about 10 mph because I bought a carb cleaner and I sprayed it on both engines. After a while I was able to go as fast as 25 mph and then, bamm, one of the engines turned off. It took a while for the engine to turn on again and the one that had cavitation was not accelerating right. One thing I noticed is there was a delay after I pushed the throttle, the boat takes a while to fully accelerate. Does a rough tide have something to do with acceleration? Lastly, how do I go about removing old oil and replacing it with sbt's break in oil?


Question... Is it Ok to connect a hose to flush engines without turning it on?

Thank you guys
 
No it is not ok to flush without running your engines , and you dont replace your oil, you add break in oil to your gas..........im betting the engine is overheating because you ran it fast being fresh , i would do a compression test on both cylenders next.
 
on a new block around 150 ......135 is the cut off line, and anything below that is trashed. basically , if its a new motor and the comp is under 145 , i would say its safe to say you already have some damage occuring to the cylenders from inproper break in.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top