-
This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.
What is this part called and how to fix please
- Thread starter Donnym25
- Start date
- Status
1. The stock fuel strainer is also the fuel filter and is a white plastic bowl. The o-ring goes bad and they will suck air thus no fuel.
2. The ON/OFF/RES valves are also very common to go bad and not allow fuel to flow.
3. When you rebuild the carbs did you......
a. Use genuine Mikuni carb kits?
b. Install new genuine Mikuni needle and seats?
c. Did you reuse your old springs?
d. Did you install new carb base gaskets?
e. Did you check popoff and leak down?
If any one of these items was not done you will have exactly the bog you are describing.
2. The ON/OFF/RES valves are also very common to go bad and not allow fuel to flow.
3. When you rebuild the carbs did you......
a. Use genuine Mikuni carb kits?
b. Install new genuine Mikuni needle and seats?
c. Did you reuse your old springs?
d. Did you install new carb base gaskets?
e. Did you check popoff and leak down?
If any one of these items was not done you will have exactly the bog you are describing.
I just changed fuel filter / strainer.
Souo i can just cuhange to reserve and if that fixes the problem then its the fuel selector right. I kinda suspect this because when i turn gas to off it takes a while for seadoo to die.
Yes i used mikuni rebuild kit 60 bucks each.
Yes new seats and needles
Yes to used old springs
Yes to new gasket connecting carbs to engine
No to doing pop off pressure test. Do not have the pump to do it.
Carb ran great thru 2 tanks of gas. No7t a problem at all. Now i fix the carrier bearing now its bogging down. The carbs should be fine.
I think its still cavitating somehow. Cuz when i lean back it would cavitate alot less and take off easier....
Souo i can just cuhange to reserve and if that fixes the problem then its the fuel selector right. I kinda suspect this because when i turn gas to off it takes a while for seadoo to die.
Yes i used mikuni rebuild kit 60 bucks each.
Yes new seats and needles
Yes to used old springs
Yes to new gasket connecting carbs to engine
No to doing pop off pressure test. Do not have the pump to do it.
Carb ran great thru 2 tanks of gas. No7t a problem at all. Now i fix the carrier bearing now its bogging down. The carbs should be fine.
I think its still cavitating somehow. Cuz when i lean back it would cavitate alot less and take off easier....
dieselndoo
Active Member
Did you remember a neoprene seal, when re installing the pump?
The seal and silicone will not do anything for water entering the hull, that is what the seal you replaced is for. The seal and/or silicone is to seal the pump to the hull so it is only pulling water into the impeller and not air into the impeller around the pump housing.
You are talking about two different seals and two different issues.
You are talking about two different seals and two different issues.
So im pretty sure i narrowed it down to a broken choke cable where it connect to the t handle we pull... it seems to be constantly pulling wich would open the choke and get too much air. I fixed it temporarily and it worked great on the water. Until the temp fix broke and then it did same thing again bog down low speed...
You have it all wrong. If the choke cable is broken the choke will be wide open. This is the correct position anytime the engine is running. It can't cause "too much air". The only time the choke is used and the butterflies are closed is on the first cold start.
Now, if the choke is being held closed all the time the engine will be rich and getting too much fuel and not enough air.
Now, if the choke is being held closed all the time the engine will be rich and getting too much fuel and not enough air.
No clue what you are talking about. If you pull the choke cable it closes the choke butterflies on the carb restricting air and richening the air fuel mixture.
You need to get the broken things fixed on this ski or you are going to be chasing your tail all summer.
You need to get the broken things fixed on this ski or you are going to be chasing your tail all summer.
dieselndoo
Active Member
Ok... First, only part of the pump assy on your yr/mdl that gets silicone, are the 3 protruding stems that go thru the hull. The nozzle assy that bolts to the pump does not get silicone. Since the pump has been removed, the lip of the wearring is done, thus, the neoprene seal comes to play, let alone, should always have one anyway. Hell, I install them on every pump minus the 951.... Your choke assy, remove the airbox for easier access, and find the appropriate Allen to stick into the brass bushing to turn the set screw, so that the choke cable end isn't pulling butterfly closed....
Can Pop off pressure change I'm wondering this because I went through two full tanks of gas no problems no hesitations no bogging but now it seems every time I take it on the water it bogs down and doesn't work. Hard start niw
If the pop off pressure was bad would it be doing what I'm describing would it work and then not work after 2 tanks of gas
I rebiult the carbs went through two tanks of gas no problem like the ski was perfect no hesitation anything.
Does that mean my pop off pressure is set right even though I didn't calibrate it because it went through two tanks of gas without problems?or its another problem??not pop off???
If the pop off pressure was bad would it be doing what I'm describing would it work and then not work after 2 tanks of gas
I rebiult the carbs went through two tanks of gas no problem like the ski was perfect no hesitation anything.
Does that mean my pop off pressure is set right even though I didn't calibrate it because it went through two tanks of gas without problems?or its another problem??not pop off???
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
