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Wear ring?
- Thread starter slowboatn
- Start date
- Status
Here is information on the wear ring replacement.
For starters....
1.) Remove the three hoses on the inside of the boat. (Attached to the pump) if you do not do this first, you will forget and cause all kinds of problems for yourself!!!
2.) Remove the steering rod, 10mm bolt and nut.
3.) Remove 4 13mm bolts holding nozzle on. with this off you will have a much better view of the wear ring.
4.) Remove 4, 17mm bolts from the pump to hull. Make sure you pull off all the lock washers and washers to ease pulling the pump.
5.) This is the tricky part.... Most shops gob all kinds of silicon on when replacing the pump and so it makes it a pain to pull it away from the hull.
You need to pull the pump away from the hull as straight as possible.
They sell a pump removal tool but I just made my own. Cut a length of 2x4 that I set across the rear of the ski and drilled 2 holes in it. I thread long 13 mm bolts with washers through the top two holes of the pump where the nozzle mounts. This pulls it away nicely with a butterfly impact.
6.) Now you have your pump and impeller in your hands, the next step is to remove the 3 8mm bolts on the cone. Make sure you have something to catch the oil and nose plugs.... This stuff reeks to high heaven...
7.) After cleaning out the oil I place the pump impeller side up in a vice. (grabbing the flat end of the pump shaft in a vice)
8.) Place impeller removal tool in the impeller and grab a 1/2" drive 3/4 socket with a huge breaker bar. Twist it counterclockwise till it pops loose. (May take some pressure. I seriously use a 4 foot pipe on the end of my breaker bar and use a popping motion rather than smooth pressure.)
9.) Now that you have the impeller out take your new wear ring and put it in the freezer.
10.) You have to get the old wear ring out of the pump. (I have found the easiest way is to take a saws all and cut a slit in the wear ring the full length of the pump) Be careful only to cut the wear ring and not the pump.
11.) Take a large standard screwdriver and a hammer and tap the screwdriver gently between the wear ring and the pump all the way around to separate them.
12.) Clean all the white corrosion off the pump where you will be putting the new wear ring
13.) After tackling this task go to the freezer and grab that wear ring. (don’t dilly dally with it) get it to the garage and slide it in the pump. you may have to tap lightly with a rubber mallet. If it doesn’t slide in then you didn’t clean the pump good enough. Repeat steps 9 and 12.....
14.) Reinstall the impeller in the reverse order.
Note: it is very important not to pinch the thrust washer when re-installing the impellor shaft. That’s why it’s a good idea to do it in a vice rather than on the ground sideways.
Once the impellor is tight you should have 1/8 - 1/4 inch play in the shaft back and fourth. if you don’t start over and inspect your thrust washer you probably pinched it..
15) Inspect the rubber o ring and if it is good apply silicon and reinstall the cone. Make sure the allen fill plug is on top.
16) Lower the front of the ski and add oil to the cone. When it is full, take a brake and have a drink. There is air in the cone and when you go back you will see that it is low. Top it off and take another brake... do this until the fluid does not lower again. I often start the ski for a few seconds to make sure oil is all the way worked into the bearings and all the air is out.
17) wipe silicon on the set screw and screw it in (be sure not to run it all the way into the cone. just deeper than flush is fine. let it sit 24 hours to cure the silicon and put the nozzle back on.
18) Use Sea Doo 75w90 GL5 Synthetic Polyester Oil or similar
Karl
Replacing the wear ring
1.) Remove the three hoses on the inside of the boat. (Attached to the pump) if you do not do this first, you will forget and cause all kinds of problems for yourself!!!
2.) Remove the steering rod, 10mm bolt and nut.
3.) Remove 4 13mm bolts holding nozzle on. with this off you will have a much better view of the wear ring.
4.) Remove 4, 17mm bolts from the pump to hull. Make sure you pull off all the lock washers and washers to ease pulling the pump.
5.) This is the tricky part.... Most shops gob all kinds of silicon on when replacing the pump and so it makes it a pain to pull it away from the hull.
You need to pull the pump away from the hull as straight as possible.
They sell a pump removal tool but I just made my own. Cut a length of 2x4 that I set across the rear of the ski and drilled 2 holes in it. I thread long 13 mm bolts with washers through the top two holes of the pump where the nozzle mounts. This pulls it away nicely with a butterfly impact.
6.) Now you have your pump and impeller in your hands, the next step is to remove the 3 8mm bolts on the cone. Make sure you have something to catch the oil and nose plugs.... This stuff reeks to high heaven...
7.) After cleaning out the oil I place the pump impeller side up in a vice. (grabbing the flat end of the pump shaft in a vice)
8.) Place impeller removal tool in the impeller and grab a 1/2" drive 3/4 socket with a huge breaker bar. Twist it counterclockwise till it pops loose. (May take some pressure. I seriously use a 4 foot pipe on the end of my breaker bar and use a popping motion rather than smooth pressure.)
9.) Now that you have the impeller out take your new wear ring and put it in the freezer.
10.) You have to get the old wear ring out of the pump. (I have found the easiest way is to take a saws all and cut a slit in the wear ring the full length of the pump) Be careful only to cut the wear ring and not the pump.
11.) Take a large standard screwdriver and a hammer and tap the screwdriver gently between the wear ring and the pump all the way around to separate them.
12.) Clean all the white corrosion off the pump where you will be putting the new wear ring
13.) After tackling this task go to the freezer and grab that wear ring. (don’t dilly dally with it) get it to the garage and slide it in the pump. you may have to tap lightly with a rubber mallet. If it doesn’t slide in then you didn’t clean the pump good enough. Repeat steps 9 and 12.....
14.) Reinstall the impeller in the reverse order.
Note: it is very important not to pinch the thrust washer when re-installing the impellor shaft. That’s why it’s a good idea to do it in a vice rather than on the ground sideways.
Once the impellor is tight you should have 1/8 - 1/4 inch play in the shaft back and fourth. if you don’t start over and inspect your thrust washer you probably pinched it..
15) Inspect the rubber o ring and if it is good apply silicon and reinstall the cone. Make sure the allen fill plug is on top.
16) Lower the front of the ski and add oil to the cone. When it is full, take a brake and have a drink. There is air in the cone and when you go back you will see that it is low. Top it off and take another brake... do this until the fluid does not lower again. I often start the ski for a few seconds to make sure oil is all the way worked into the bearings and all the air is out.
17) wipe silicon on the set screw and screw it in (be sure not to run it all the way into the cone. just deeper than flush is fine. let it sit 24 hours to cure the silicon and put the nozzle back on.
18) Use Sea Doo 75w90 GL5 Synthetic Polyester Oil or similar
Karl
93mustang97sea
New Member
Is it true you can use a wear ring twice? I saw somewhere where a guy just flipped it over and it was like new..
Every wear ring I have done was worn all over, and could not be flipped.
Slowboatn, I live in Angleton. Feel free to PM me and we can work on this thing one afternoon.
I wouldn't mind meeting you anyway.
I can help you find the parts and even determine if you even need to do the swap or not.
For the rest of you, he lives about 20 minutes from me.
Slowboatn, I live in Angleton. Feel free to PM me and we can work on this thing one afternoon.
I wouldn't mind meeting you anyway.
I can help you find the parts and even determine if you even need to do the swap or not.
For the rest of you, he lives about 20 minutes from me.
Geez Aaron, if I made a sticky on everything everyone was repairing, we wouldn't need a forum...:rofl: We have very good manuals with super pictures in them. Even the descriptions I add to the forum of a repair have a little extra added to them but the manuals have a very good description in layman's terms.
You absolutely can NOT reuse a wear ring... You are replacing it because it is worn out and beyond the service limit.
Karl
slowboatn
New Member
I keep a weird schedule. It would have to be done at my house. I can't tow it now the tags and stuff are out on the trailer. I went 1 year on my truck with no plates and registration. I just know if I hook it up and drive out of the drive way I'll get a ticket or thrown in jail for it. I have no luck at all. NONE! I know where Angleton is. Go through Rosharon and make some turns.
I just looked in the manual. That doesn't look like fun. I think I better leave this up to the pro's.
I just looked in the manual. That doesn't look like fun. I think I better leave this up to the pro's.
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That trick only works on the 4-stroke Sea-Doo pumps, and if you're desperate to get back on the water. I've never done it though.
Chester
slowboatn
New Member
I hear all of yall on all of these forums say to pressure test the cone after removing the oil and putting it back on. When I call any Seadoo dealer or service place around me, there are quite a few, they tell me that isn't necessary. I've seen somewhere on how to make your own but I can't find it anywhere. Yall have any instructions on how to do it? Make a pressure test tool for this.
slowboatn
New Member
Ok. I think I need to do this. How do I tell if it is bad or not? I was told to look for light around the impellar when looking in from the back of the ski. It has lots of light. I also noticed when waxing the bottom of the hull that the impeller looks a little worn on the edges of the blades. Like some one took a file to them and didn't do a good job. Where do I get the parts for this and about how much am I looking to spend on it? Thanks.
The instructions work on all 2 strokes. I just interpreted them from the seadoo manual. Were not allowed to copy and past anything from the manual direct.
Karl
Karl
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