Wear ring on 587 gts

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One1

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I’m going this morning to grab this gts with a 587 that has a bad wear ring. As long as it passes compression tests it’s coming with me for the price listed. (Under $300).

It looks like i can do the wear ring with heat and a sledgehammer according to youtube and the cost is $60 or so for the part. Am i off base on this or should i expect a larger bill? (Not talking about bearing service, just want to know about the wear ring).

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Good running 587 engine and computer really not bad ski just need wear ring motor running could crank up make good ski ski price is with out trailer
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I spoke with the seller and he said it’ll run and we can compression test it no problem. He resells jet skis locally and has done so for years. Backyard seller. Not just a guy looking to unload a ski that’s been in his shed for 15 years. He knows what he has so I don’t expect any other issues will be found mechanically. He has 20 other skis. He didn’t scavenge this one for parts, it just came in with others he bought. May turn out to be a great little ski for a couple hundred bucks. I expect nothing other than a running ski. It’s ugly betty.

I’ve only had the 657, so anything i need to look for on this ski that I don’t know about coming from the SPX to the GTS?
 

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I had the same ski before I got the 96 GTX. Sometimes I wish I had kept it. It wasn't the fastest (about 39 mph top speed), but it was very reliable and very stable. Get yourself a new seat cover and clean it up and you'll have a good ski.

As for the wear ring, you cut a slit through the old one to get it out. I use a dremel tool to do this. Put the new ring in your freezer for a couple hours and it should drop right in or maybe need a little persuasion from a piece of wood across it and a hammer.

I put one of those blue plastic rings in mine and it worked just fine. You can get those for a lot less than $60
 
OEM wear ring is $40 and figure another $20 for pump oil and neoprene seal. All you need is an impeller wrench and a hacksaw to change the ring.

I would figure another $125 for Genuine Mikuni carb rebuild, fuel hose, strainer and fuel selector to get it up and going correctly.
 
I just left the place it was that. It started immediately and ran like a top but the compression only showed 120 On compression gauge so I told him I was going to have to think about it
 
If your gauge is accurate then yes, that's low and it will not run very well in the water.
 
That’s what I told him so I said I need to price rings and honing it out into the main factor on buying the Jetske and he said well why don’t you just come get it for 200 bucks so I said OK we’re getting ready to load it in the truck
 
You will need new oversized rings and pistons and have the cylinders bored oversized. You can't just put new rings on a worn out cylinder and expect to get compression back.
 
Going to need a few things but for 200 bucks it can need whatever it wants to need. I’ll still be happy with it after I’m done.
 

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I’m impressed with how it cleaned up after a little degreaser and the local car wash. Time to get crackin and order a wear ring.

This thing is actually in good shape. 1995 model. The handlebar pad is in the trunk. It hasn’t been ran in 2 years so i need to run it and see what the compression really is. I showed 125 on both cyls testing when i got home. If it’ll come up to 130 after running it for a few mins it’ll run for the season.
 

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Oh, he gave me two keys. Which one is the fast key?
 

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Well that’s good to know because the guy that sold it to me said this one had a learner key and I didn’t think so. One thing it definitely has however is a 587. And if you look at it you can see that the bolts that typically the paint flakes off of if you touch them still have all their paint on them so I believe that it has never been opened up


.
 

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Only thing that I see that is really bad is it has the completely wrong "Blue" TCW-3 oil in it.
And your PTO cover is missing.
 
There’s a few things on my list, but nothing critical. This came from a part of town where car doors have duct tape holding the windows up. The fact it has cleaned up and runs so well is a miracle.

I’ve degreased the front and am working on the back right now. It really is cleaning up to look very presentable. Not like a $200 ski, which it very much looked like when i picked it up.

I’m too OCD to let very much slide, so it’ll be slick by next week and on the water. Just waiting on the wear ring.
 

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Looking great!

With the tank so low, now is the time to get the wrong oil out, change the oil filter and 3/32" oil injection lines and refill with the correct API-TC oil.
 
I looked closer at the compression gauge it was 130. It’ll run for the season so shouldn’t be too much to get on the water next week. My gauge is stingy. Most gauges read 8-10psi higher than mine.
 

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OK I just got the jet pump apart. Inside ......black gold Texas tea. So this pump sat underwater for a year and froze up according to him. Its actually free to where it’s turning but It’s not easy to turn. I actually think the wear ring is swollen on the blades because inside is oily, not rusted. As you can see I have a spare pump that he gave me that I’m transferring everything over to and putting a new wear ring in.

Should this pump be bad with all the oil in it if it sat up under water for a year or so? There is NO WATER inside. I believe the problem is the buildup on the ring, he thinks it’s the pump. I have a spare either way, and a wear ring coming either way, so i guess ill break the ring off
 

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The black nasty oil is perfectly normal and even new Seadoo oil is black.

If it was brown and milky like a late’ it would be water contaminated.

You can use either OEM jet pump oil, Klotz jet pump oil or some use Mobil 1 synthetic gear oil.
 
I don’t see why it is so hard to turn. All the failed ones i see are rusted, dry, or watery. I’m wanting to use this pump if it’s useable, but right now it takes a lot of effort to turn. I guess even with it sitting under water for over a yesr I don’t understand why it wouldn’t possibly free up if i spun it around a bunch. Do pumps come back like that or are they screwed up once they start binding?
 
Turns out i was right. The pump was good. I didn’t think it would be locked up with that much oil in it. The wear ring had a flat spot that i found earlier. Still, i went ahead with my plan and built the new one with a $64 wear ring from the local dealer. I’ve got to build a trailer this weekend and should be ready for the water monday. :)

On a side note i found an XP with a 657 for $100 that I’m considering. The engine is in a box, but the engine looks pretty good. The heads are open so i could see the pistons and jugs and it seems like something worth building for the price. Worst case I’d have $200 in it with small repairs, so considering the seat is worth what he is asking I don’t think i can go wrong.
 

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I’ve got the pump built and I’m going to put it in the boat tonight. I neglected to get another one of those cone seal washers that seal up the driveshaft so I need to pick one of those up but I’ll just cut it put it on and then glue it back together or something
 

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So i took all day to decide, but I’m going to buy the SP. put the 587 in the SP and use the more powerful 657 in the larger GTS. my question is if the computers are the same for those two engines. I want to swap as little as possible obviously.

The SP has a grab bar on the back thats worth what he wants for the ski so might as well get it.
 

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