Water intake Grate

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SeptemberC

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'04 Seadoo Islandia M2 240hp 0E415631 - Pump 0E416462, '07 Seadoo RXP 155, '00 Yamaha 800XL-Sold
#30
Thank you. Dr. Honda got me in touch with Minnetonka and I think he's helping me get one.
 

SeptemberC

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'04 Seadoo Islandia M2 240hp 0E415631 - Pump 0E416462, '07 Seadoo RXP 155, '00 Yamaha 800XL-Sold
#32
I HATE HATE to be such a pain. . . I just want to make sure before I order. . .

Here are pics of my damaged inlet grate. I think I am leaning towards the 11 tine Rock Grate. I just want to make sure that it's a interchangeable part and I'm not going to have to modify my boat or drill new holes into the hull.

So Part# 854810T1 will swap with mine here. .
 

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Twin Lakes ID
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97GSX/Rotax 787, 96XP/Rotax 787, sold: 2001 C2K/Mercury 240EFI, now: Tige 24Ve/PCM 5.7L V8
#33
You're not being a pain, I get it.

Didn't know you had the 210HP engine, but it doesn't matter. The jetdrive is a constant across the entire lineup: 200, 210, 240, and 250.

See those four screws? Two are hex head flange bolts and two are torx drive countersink. Remove those and the existing grate will drop out. The new grate will come with four replacement bolts that are identical to the ones you already have, use whichever ones you wish. The new grate will install in direct replacement of the old one. Install and tighten the bolts and you're done. Ten minutes max.

CAUTION: Be certain you have the correct size torx driver for those screws. I grabbed the wrong one once (the next size down) and it stripped out the head, making for a very inconvenient removal job. After that I bought an extra, standalone torx bit and kept it with my boat maintenance equipment, separate from my usual tools, so there would never be a chance I'd use the wrong size again. You should have such a bit anyway because you need it to remove the trim plate screws when you drain and replace the rear jetdrive lube. You ARE doing that every Fall, correct?
 

SeptemberC

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'04 Seadoo Islandia M2 240hp 0E415631 - Pump 0E416462, '07 Seadoo RXP 155, '00 Yamaha 800XL-Sold
#34
Pheww. . OK cause I just saw where some people were having the tines cut off with a plasma cutter too. Nice to know that its a direct replacement.

This is our first full summer with this Challenger. No we did not maintenance last fall. We just did the following last week. We ran into a problem. . .Here is an excerpt from that . . .

Changed the spark plugs. Changed the lube in the pump. . .that went smooth except for we found no cork or rubber washers on those screws. But the oil looked great. We attempted the Stator oil change but could not get the stator housing off. ..Not sure if I am calling it the right thing. . .so we skipped that (for now).

It would NOT budge!

(You should have such a bit anyway because you need it to remove the trim plate screws when you drain and replace the rear jetdrive lube. )

Is that under the hull near the inlet grate?
 
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97GSX/Rotax 787, 96XP/Rotax 787, sold: 2001 C2K/Mercury 240EFI, now: Tige 24Ve/PCM 5.7L V8
#35
I'm the guy that had the tines removed with a plasma cutter. That gives you my custom five-tine grate, which yields the very best efficiency while still protecting the jetdrive / impeller / stator from most ingested objects.

Next time, if it's the stator HOUSING that is stuck, use a dead blow hammer to lightly tap around it a bit to loosen it. Make sure you've removed all the associated bolts first!
 

Racereddie

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Central Florida-Lakeland
Water Crafts
2003 Utopia 205 240 hp EFI M2 Jet Drive (Sold)

2009 Glacier Bay 234 twin Suzuki 140hp
#36
I HATE HATE to be such a pain. . . I just want to make sure before I order. . .

Here are pics of my damaged inlet grate. I think I am leaning towards the 11 tine Rock Grate. I just want to make sure that it's a interchangeable part and I'm not going to have to modify my boat or drill new holes into the hull.

So Part# 854810T1 will swap with mine here. .

Here is a picture of the 11-tine grate and yes they all bolt in IMG_20120817_181855.jpg IMG_20120817_181906.jpg .

You don't need to remove the stator to drain the oil Boat service Stator Oil plugs.JPG .

WAjetboating, nice to see you back after that long sabbatical!


Eddie
 

SeptemberC

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'04 Seadoo Islandia M2 240hp 0E415631 - Pump 0E416462, '07 Seadoo RXP 155, '00 Yamaha 800XL-Sold
#37
Eddie, thank you!!!
Can you provide some instructions that go along with your picture for changing the stator oil?
 

SeptemberC

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'04 Seadoo Islandia M2 240hp 0E415631 - Pump 0E416462, '07 Seadoo RXP 155, '00 Yamaha 800XL-Sold
#38
I ordered the 11 tine Rock grate. Should be here Monday or Tuesday. I'll post pics when we get it installed.
 

Racereddie

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Location
Central Florida-Lakeland
Water Crafts
2003 Utopia 205 240 hp EFI M2 Jet Drive (Sold)

2009 Glacier Bay 234 twin Suzuki 140hp
#39
Eddie, thank you!!!
Can you provide some instructions that go along with your picture for changing the stator oil?
Spray some PB blaster on the screws and let them sit over night. I am pretty sure that the allen size is 8mm, but at my age make sure you check, it could be 1/4 in. If a socket and extension won't work, get a hammer impact tool, not an air impact hammer. Once the screws are removed the oil will drain out, I jacked the trailer up so I could get as much of an angle as possible. Go to WalMart and get the Attwood or Quicksilver Gear Lube Pump $6-9. You can use the suction side of the Lube Pump to get more oil out by inserting it into the vent oil. Once you get all the oil out, lower the trailer, connect the pump to a quart of Quicksilver High Performance Gear Lube, don't go with any other oil on this one. Insert the outlet of the pump tube into the lower of the two holes, if it does not screw in, don't worry, just insert the tube and pump until oil comes out of the top (vent) hole. At that point the stator will be full, it takes 19 fl oz After refilling, apply Loctite PST Pipe Sealant to fill plug threads and reinstall plug.

Eddie
 
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97GSX/Rotax 787, 96XP/Rotax 787, sold: 2001 C2K/Mercury 240EFI, now: Tige 24Ve/PCM 5.7L V8
#40
If you only "drain" through the lower hole, you will not remove all of the lube - and more importantly, possibly water - that is in that chamber. Since lube has a lower specific gravity than water, any water will settle to the bottom and stay in there to corrode things. Not good.

The proper procedure is to remove the stator as explained in the Mercury engine manual. You can then turn it face down on an oil drain pan and let most of the lube drain out. Even then some can still remain, and that is where the center plug comes in - remove the plug and flip the stator so the plug hole becomes the lowest point. That gets everything out.

Put some fresh lube on the double lip seal, then reinstall the stator over the impeller shaft and screw it down. Reinstall the center plug. Remove the TOP plug, insert the gear lube's tube, and pump until lube starts backing out around the tube. Reinstall the top plug and you're done.

An alternative, if you don't want to remove the stator, is to use a fluid extractor pump and run the hose into first the top and then the center hole to suck out as much as possible. However, you will not get everything and if there is water in there this method will almost certainly leave water, not lube, due to specific gravity as noted above.

Unless you remove the stator you just don't really know what is going on in there and you're not draining all of the old lube. Example: One season I found that a little piece of fishing line, from some inconsiderate fisherman, had managed to get lodged between the impeller shaft and the double lip seal. This permitted water to enter. Had I not removed the stator I would never have known it was there, and the water remaining in the stator for months or years would have corroded all those nice expensive components.

It's your boat, make your own decision. For my part, I ALWAYS removed the stator and always knew exactly what was going on in there.
 

jaibeau

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dallas texas
Water Crafts
challenger 1800
#41
do you know what part number fits a 2001 seadoo challenger 1800 240 merc? i need i need!!
The 11 tine stainless steel "rock grate" is more efficient than the six tine aluminum fixed version. Years ago I did a careful analysis of the obstruction each presents to the incoming water flow and the 11 is the best choice of the OEM grates.
 
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Location
Twin Lakes ID
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97GSX/Rotax 787, 96XP/Rotax 787, sold: 2001 C2K/Mercury 240EFI, now: Tige 24Ve/PCM 5.7L V8
#45
Folks... the eleven tine grate, Mercury part number 854810T1, fits ALL SportJet jetdrives from years 2000-2006. All of these engines used a common jetdrive. Only the engine on top (and its adapter plate) changed. Challenger 1800, Challenger 2000, SportJet 210 carb, 240EFI, Optimax 200, Optimax 250 - they're all the same jetdrive and use 854810T1.
 

SeptemberC

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Location
Charleston, WV
Water Crafts
'04 Seadoo Islandia M2 240hp 0E415631 - Pump 0E416462, '07 Seadoo RXP 155, '00 Yamaha 800XL-Sold
#46
yep, thats it!! so, this is part number 854810T? what site did you use? Did you notice any performace differences? thanks, my search finally ended-

We went out this evening after changing the intake grate this afternoon. NO speed difference, No performance difference.

Busters Marine on ebay. He currently has an auction up #271218957248
He shipped it to me UPS 2nd day.
 
Messages
466
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12
Location
Twin Lakes ID
Water Crafts
97GSX/Rotax 787, 96XP/Rotax 787, sold: 2001 C2K/Mercury 240EFI, now: Tige 24Ve/PCM 5.7L V8
#47
We went out this evening after changing the intake grate this afternoon. NO speed difference, No performance difference.
The most important difference is that you now have a MUCH stronger grate protecting your jetdrive (fixed stainless vs. fixed aluminum or {gack} moving aluminum). And it cost you no performance penalty. Cheapest insurance policy you could have purchased.
 
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