is it possible to get water in the 96 787 crankcase/ block? my starter stops an i can feel the flywheel has a ton of resistance. water just flows out of it when i can get it to start intermittently. i can hear it bubbling, and when i disconnected the water box from the exhaust pipe water just flowed out.
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water in crankcase????
- Thread starter Dereckt94
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take the spark plugs out, put them on the grounding lugs and the n crank the engine over. Then while it's cranking place your thumb over the spark plug hole to give it some resistance, then let your thumb go. There is no drain. I would then take the lid off the air box and spray fogging oil through the carbs to get those bearings lubed real good. The when you can't get anymore water out, fire it up and nurse it along to try to get the rest of the water out. Then I'd fog it again real good and crank it over without the plugs again, let it sit over night and do it again tomorrow. Having that much water in there is scary, especially if it makes it's way back to the counter balance area, you can't change that oil, and oil and water don't mix well for bearings.
How did the water get in?
How did the water get in?
bell99man
Active Member
Too late today, but when you get it to crank take it to the water asap and run it like a wild horse. Plan on staying on i for an hour or so riding very hard. You want to evaporate as much water as possible. Like Racer said, fog it every time you trailer it for the next 3-4 rides.
Be VERY careful putting your thumb over the spark plug hole and cranking the engine.
I watched a guy doing this and the compression punctured his thumb and inject water and fuel into his thumb.
Just don;t SEAL the hole, let there be a tine gap for the liquid to go to instead of directly into your thumb...
I watched a guy doing this and the compression punctured his thumb and inject water and fuel into his thumb.
Just don;t SEAL the hole, let there be a tine gap for the liquid to go to instead of directly into your thumb...
i took the carbs off to see if my camera could see any thing, see what you guys think. i think it might be a starter, because i let it rest and then it will turn it over once or twice...? but i think i know why my exhaust is filling up. the rave looking valve on top of the water box was in bad shape the bellow was kinda push out and the screw inside was jacked to the side. maybe thats why the engine is backfireing blocked exhaust? thanks for the help
WHAT???? Guy must have a desk job(non callused skin).
I've been doing that since I've been a kid and flooded my first three wheeler.
You want fries with that shake? There deff is some water in that bottom end, but also a good amount of oil(milkshake looking). Take a small hose and and duct tape into your shop vac hose(seal the shop vac tube around the small tube so all the suction goes thru the little tube) and stick it down in there and just keep on sucking. If you don't have your spark plugs in you should be able to keep cranking it, if it stops it COULD be your starter.
Spimothy Leary
Well-Known Member
way too much moisture in the crank, its gotta go, now.
Cracked head or block or blown head gasket.
A machine shop can check the head for you easily.
There is an issue for sure though.
A machine shop can check the head for you easily.
There is an issue for sure though.
bell99man
Active Member
Yep, leaned out. How does the head look, same? If so it broke a piece of the ring out and tossed it around. The main thing that happens is the high temps cause the metal to start to glow. Then the combustion starts to occur early and at the hot metal surface, blowing bits of the glowing metal loose. The small area above the ring along the exhaust port edge tends to go first. By the time it gets this bad, it should have ceased and died a few times. Quickly after this the ring on that edge will break and then your compression drops too low for the engine to have any power. Sorry Dereck.
Kevin
Kevin
DSchmidt54
New Member
Yeah , you should probably just get a new SBT block , even if you clean out that bottom end and do a new top end rebuild with new raves, it wont last long, your bearings will eventually bind in your case. sorry bro.
thank you for describing that. i appreciate it alot, i hate not understanding why it did that. you described that like the day we were riding. we were cruising about 4 miles then it all of a sudden would not full throttle power and about couple hundered yards it died in the water. would start but backfire out the exhaust and carb for a few turns then die. my older gtx 657x pulled it all the way home
DSchmidt54, the crankcase did not fully fill up with water i was mistaking that. There was some water in there i think just dont know were it came from. i think the water regulator on the water box malfuntioned and filled the lower exhaust up. i dont even know if that has anything to do with it??? thanks for the input guys
CReynoldsMIZ
Well-Known Member
okay, there is really no way that the water regulator on the waterbox would have caused this to happen, if it malfunctions, it doesnt flow water. There is no way for it to pump water into your engine. It either works or it doesnt, and it only works when the engine is running. No, as everyone else says here, there was some reason why water got into your engine, and it did and will effect your bearings down the line. Your best bet, and easiest option is an SBT shortblock, if you replace that piston and cylinder you are just asking for trouble because you didnt really fix anything
DSchmidt54
New Member
Yeah and if you intend on keeping that thing for more than one season...... Go with the premium block....... It has a 2 year no questions asked warranty and the gaskets and break in oil....... It's worth the extra cash trust me
The premium block is pretty small money difference for the peace of mind.
To replace one cylinder would be a waste of money and time. Even IF it was the cause, the other mechanical items went through abuse and would fail in the future. So in a nutshell, if you save $300 now,,,, it will cost you a grand later as you will be doing the same work all over again and the time..
To replace one cylinder would be a waste of money and time. Even IF it was the cause, the other mechanical items went through abuse and would fail in the future. So in a nutshell, if you save $300 now,,,, it will cost you a grand later as you will be doing the same work all over again and the time..
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