Water in 2016 GTI 130 Engine - Advice on Next Steps

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kirnma

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Just for total transparency, I am a newbie. We had our 2016 GTI 130 winterized and go it back in the water last Saturday. My wife accidentally cross-threaded one of the drain plugs and it sank in 7 ft. of water while sitting overnight. We had it salvaged and brought it home. Needless to say the engine was waterlogged, with a significant amount of water in the crankcase. I used a fluid extractor to remove as much of the water and water/oil mixture as I could through the dipstick hole, added some more oil, took out the plugs, and turned the engine over to get the water out of the cylinders that made its way there through the airbox. I then sprayed WD40 down the spark plug holes to keep the cylinder walls lubricated and to displace any remaining water. I used the extractor to drain the crankcase again, and got even more water and milky-looking oil out.

My question is what do I do now to get the remaining water out of the crankcase? Do I refill with oil, put the plugs back in, run the engine, and then drain the oil again, and continue with that cycle until the oil is clear? Do I put a couple quarts of WD40 in and run the engine a few minutes and then extract it (WD40 would diplace the water but might not provide enough lubrication, even for a short run cycle), and the start the oil refill/drain process? I also pulled the oil filter (which was wet) and will replace that. I feel I've done what I should/could to this point, but don't want to make a mistake and destroy the engine. Anybody have any advice on how to proceed from here?
 
Well the first thing your never supposed to do is try to crank or start a water flooded engine. In the service manual there is a subsection “Water Flooded Engine” that describes the correct process for dealing with a submerged watercraft. The first step is always to drain the intake and exhaust systems of water. If you don’t do this first cranking forces water into the engine thru the intake valves. So your oil changes are a waste of time and money unless the intake and exhaust systems are first expelled of all their water. I would suggest a dealer at this point or download a service manual and continue the process per the service manual.

Also per the service manual “ If the engine is flooded with water, it must be serviced within a few hours after the event. Otherwise, the engine will have to be overhauled.”
And I am pretty sure most of the above info is included in the owners manual.
 
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Thanks for your reply. We looked at the owner's manual but it didn't say much more than take the flooded ski to a dealer. We then looked through this and other forums for guidance. The engine wasn't turned over until the water was drained from the crankcase and the plugs removed. It was done the same day, but not within hours. A large number of threads suggested getting the water out of the cylinders through the method described above - remove the plugs and turn the engine over. I completely understand the concept of not trying to start a flooded engine, that's why I drained it first. Although I looked online, no other approach to removing water from the intake or exhaust was documented. Admittedly, I did not look at a factory service manual.
 
Yes, whenever the owners manual says take it do the dealer it’s almost automatic that you should refer to a service manual. It’s possible, probably not in your case, not to have water in the engine and not follow the recommended procedures and pump water into the engine by cranking or trying to start it. At this point if you have insurance I would probably take it to the dealer and file a claim.

And yes the exhaust and intake system draining is outlined in the service manual as the second and third step after draining the bilge. You are doing things right just out of order.
 
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The problem is that water sits in the intake system. So even though you drained the water from inside the engine the first time you tried to start it all the water still sitting in the intake gos sucked right back into the engine again.

You have to follow the manual to the letter and get all the water out of the intake, exhaust and engine.
 
OK, why does not removing the plugs and cranking the engine get the water out of the intake system? I would think that the water would have to enter through the air box and make it's way to the manifold, and then drain into the cylinders as they open/close, and then get pumped out through the spark plug hole by the piston reaching the top of its stroke. You're saying this process will not get rid of all the water, and that if I try to reinstall the plugs and start it, I could crack the piston, bend a rod etc... I will get a hold of the service manual and see what else I can do. Thanks.
 
OK, got the service manual. Will update this thread after I go through the manual and follow the instructions. Thanks.
 
The intake manifold has a huge low spot that holds a lot of water, like a couple quarts. It's only 7 bolts and some connectors to remove intake manifold, about 20 minutes if you've done it before.
 
Thanks. Yeah, I heard about water settling into the manifold. Didn't know it was a couple of quarts. I had the manual and was going to attempt to take off the manifold (I had already removed the air silencer) but then simply ran out of time and took it to a shop. As you indicated it was quick work for them. They removed and evacuated water from the manifold, flushed all the water from the crankcase, did a compression test (all good, and the same), got us back in the water. This was Purr Motorsports in Denver, NC. Nice folks, good shop.

Appreciate all the replies, but I am good to go for now. After going through the experience I would have downloaded the manual earlier, and not removed the air silencer (those straps holding it in are almost impossible to get back in place, and there was no water in it). Hope it doesn't happen again, but with three kids in the family it might be inevitable.
 
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