Krispy
Well-Known Member
Alright, I am going to start by saying that I am not the originator of this idea. I have seen this discussed in several locations but I didn't find any threads describing the method to make the tool, specifically what base material they used for the tool.
So I am assuming by this point you have already removed the easy to get to parts of the VTS system on the outside of the hull. This includes the linkages and the boot/ clamp. If not do that before going on,
This isn't a very complex DIY and I am sure most of you could figure it out, but since I don't mind writing these, and I like to find these ways to save some $ here we go.
First gather your material, my VTS nut was 1-5/16" . I needed to find some PVC that was slightly smaller in interior diameter (that is how PVC is measured by the way) than the nut I was trying to remove.
I used 1-1/4" schedule 40 PVC. Home Depot is nice enough to have pre cut 2' sections of this stuff grossly overpriced for our convenience. I don't mind buying it this way as it saves me from some cutting and storing of pipe down the road. Not to mention it is easier to get in my car. But I digress, Here is a pic of the material
So you take this material and begin heating one end of it with a heat gun. It took my harbor freight gun about 2 minutes on high to get the PVC hot enough. You want to concentrate your heat on the edge of the PVC and down to about 1-1/2" inches from that edge. Once the PVC is hot enough you will see the outer diameter "flare" outward ever so slightly. This means your ready.
Now act fast, take the hot PVC and push it on over the nut. It should stretch over the nut and begin to cool. It is important that you don't move the PVC during the cooling process. Doing so will yield a sloppy fit.
Let the PVC completely cool around the VTS Nut. I took this PIC after removing the nut for reference.
Now you should be able to twist off the nut.
Remove the nut and save the tool. the way these VTS systems act I won't be long before you are removing the nut again.
If anyone has questions please let me know. I will do my best to answer them.
So I am assuming by this point you have already removed the easy to get to parts of the VTS system on the outside of the hull. This includes the linkages and the boot/ clamp. If not do that before going on,
This isn't a very complex DIY and I am sure most of you could figure it out, but since I don't mind writing these, and I like to find these ways to save some $ here we go.
First gather your material, my VTS nut was 1-5/16" . I needed to find some PVC that was slightly smaller in interior diameter (that is how PVC is measured by the way) than the nut I was trying to remove.
I used 1-1/4" schedule 40 PVC. Home Depot is nice enough to have pre cut 2' sections of this stuff grossly overpriced for our convenience. I don't mind buying it this way as it saves me from some cutting and storing of pipe down the road. Not to mention it is easier to get in my car. But I digress, Here is a pic of the material
So you take this material and begin heating one end of it with a heat gun. It took my harbor freight gun about 2 minutes on high to get the PVC hot enough. You want to concentrate your heat on the edge of the PVC and down to about 1-1/2" inches from that edge. Once the PVC is hot enough you will see the outer diameter "flare" outward ever so slightly. This means your ready.
Now act fast, take the hot PVC and push it on over the nut. It should stretch over the nut and begin to cool. It is important that you don't move the PVC during the cooling process. Doing so will yield a sloppy fit.
Let the PVC completely cool around the VTS Nut. I took this PIC after removing the nut for reference.
Now you should be able to twist off the nut.
Remove the nut and save the tool. the way these VTS systems act I won't be long before you are removing the nut again.
If anyone has questions please let me know. I will do my best to answer them.
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