VTS Keeps Blowing Fuses

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RWDAddict

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So I've been reading a lot on this. So I had a water corroded motor, got that replaced and long story short got it to the point of working but when the worm gear seats all the way into the shaft unit it keeps cranking on it until the fuse blows. I replace the fuse and turn the motor the opposite direction but it was cranked on so tight that it blows the fuse again. I have to manually untighten the shaft. Is there a way to file the worm gear so that it will just keep spinning and now crank itself down? Also the VTS gauge doesn't work, i have a new shaft coming, i think the magnet corroded away from it. Any help would be appreciated. It's a 96' so i'm trying to avoid replacing the VTS module, i also have a auto resetting 7.5Amp fuse coming so I don't have to rip it all apart when it blows.
 
I am not familiar with the VTS per se, but you are describing an electrical issue that apparently originates within the VTS module....the "limit" constraints to forward/reverse the motor are obviously not working (thus allowing the motor to overrun and bind the unit until it pops the fuse).

I THINK I read somewhere that there is an "external" work around for the VTS module....some smart person came up with a VTS device that you splice into the ski to bypass the existing module to make it all work right again.....AGAIN, though....no direct experience with this problem (as my ski does NOT have VTS).....but there might be a solution out there.....have you tried Googling "Seadoo VTS repair module".....I'm sure I read about this somewhere....
 
So I've been reading a lot on this. So I had a water corroded motor, got that replaced and long story short got it to the point of working but when the worm gear seats all the way into the shaft unit it keeps cranking on it until the fuse blows. I replace the fuse and turn the motor the opposite direction but it was cranked on so tight that it blows the fuse again. I have to manually untighten the shaft. Is there a way to file the worm gear so that it will just keep spinning and now crank itself down? Also the VTS gauge doesn't work, i have a new shaft coming, i think the magnet corroded away from it. Any help would be appreciated. It's a 96' so i'm trying to avoid replacing the VTS module, i also have a auto resetting 7.5Amp fuse coming so I don't have to rip it all apart when it blows.
 
I did read that, but in my initial searches I saw someone file down the threads near the back so that when it reached the nut it would click and not bind. When I run the VTS the other way the fuse never blows because there is no hard stop. The module is probably bad but it's a $280 part and these are 96' waverunners i'm dealing with. To me it's not worth that kind of money, looking for the good enough to make it work just not perfect solution.
 
I did read that, but in my initial searches I saw someone file down the threads near the back so that when it reached the nut it would click and not bind. When I run the VTS the other way the fuse never blows because there is no hard stop. The module is probably bad but it's a $280 part and these are 96' waverunners i'm dealing with. To me it's not worth that kind of money, looking for the good enough to make it work just not perfect solution.
Ah, I understand.....you are at the Cost vs. Benefit stage for an older ski.....time to call in Rube Goldberg....I get it. Good luck, necessity is the mother of invention......
 
Well problem solved, it goes down because it will screw away from the nut and the module will auto stop it. I had the problem sending it up because it would bring the screw down on the assembly and so hard it would lock it in place and blow the fuse. So I just put in a automatic 7.5A breaking fuse and then i ground off 2-3 spirals off the screw. That allows it to overspin freely and prevent itself from clamping down so hard on it. The gauge is still broken but at least i can do it by feel and not have to worry about blowing my fuse and it being stuck all the way up.
 

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You can try replacing the magnet but a lot of times the internal limit switches go bad and the unit is junk.
You can either replace the entire unit or google search "The Trim Fix".

If you keep using it as is you can fry the ski's MPEM.
 
The “trim fix” For sale on EBay worked well for me with my vts problem. Just installed it a few days ago and was on the water for hours today with no problems.

The instructions were pretty easy and straight forward as well.
 
The “trim fix” For sale on EBay worked well for me with my vts problem. Just installed it a few days ago and was on the water for hours today with no problems.

I looked this unit up, but what exactly is it? They show an entire vts unit in the add but it sounds like it's not a complete replacement. Do you have any pics? I need to fix a 95 xp. Thanks.
 
The trim fix is a medium difficulty splicing job that uses your buttons (if they work) and gauge (if it works) and some housing components/wiring harness modifications along with an in line module to give you back VTS control. it is not simple. it depends on parts of the VTS system other than the motor working.
try www.VTSrepair.com my module is self contained, just connect battery amd motor, then control with a key-fob. very simple.
 
This is what i did to fix mine. Think i have $20 tied up in it. Works fine. Could really use 2 auto spdt relays or tilt/trim relays off an outboard. I used the DEI 451 relay. Only thing i ordered was a 10amp auto reset fuse. Had the fuse holder from an old amp. Soldered all together and spliced into the factory wiring. 20200701_090736.jpeg20200701_090747.jpeg
 
I too used the DEI relay and an auto reset circuit breaker in the rear electrical box and can confirm it works great. The cost was under $10. I would not have run that wire in through the cover as pictured above. Lots of other ways to get power to the motor.
 
Here is pictures of the instructions explaining what all comes with this product. Basically it’s a new Vts module that you have to wire up to the vts harness and vts motor, and a magnet and sensor to get the gauge working. Also, there’s instructions to fix the worm screw thing that controls the the jet from moving up and down.
 

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I too used the DEI relay and an auto reset circuit breaker in the rear electrical box and can confirm it works great. The cost was under $10. I would not have run that wire in through the cover as pictured above. Lots of other ways to get power to the motor.
Didnt have much of a choice. Something internally was completely shot and would blow fuse immediately, with all wires to VTS disconnected. Had to run a separate ground to grey box up front also. Dont even have vts fuse in rear black box. Basically, just used the 2 motor wires.
 
Didnt have much of a choice. Something internally was completely shot and would blow fuse immediately, with all wires to VTS disconnected. Had to run a separate ground to grey box up front also. Dont even have vts fuse in rear black box. Basically, just used the 2 motor wires.
What I am saying is that it would have been better to run those new wires from the relay to the motor through the back of the VTS housing, so you can remove the cover entirely.
 
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