Typical Running Voltage

[OG1]

I tested the rectifier under idle/rev and it maintianed 12.2 volts
so I orderd a new (aftermarket) rectifier
replaced, started the engine, and AGAIN no voltage raise.
I checke the yellow (stator) AC voltages and saw 30VAC+ when revving
what is up !!!!!

Check your 30amp fuse holder. It’s not in the fuse block it’s one of the loose ones near the fuse block though.

 

[anthonymsaad]

Going through the shop manual, the charging system doesn't really generate the 14V ± 0.5V output till around 5,500 RPM. Below that RPM, the battery supplies power to the rest of the boat's electronics and accessories. Essentially, below 5,500 RPM, you should be seeing ~12V. And if during your test the engine was only at idle, id test it again, but at 5,500 RPM just to verify it's your rectifier, unless someone else is more familiar with your situation.

 

[OG1]

Above poster is correct, don't expect to see 13.7 at idle immediately after starting like you will in your car. If its not charging at all, which his seems to not be if its sitting at 12.2, you will actually see the voltage drop while its running due to the engine electronics and fuel pump draw.

Check that fuse holder. If that is corroded and or burned it will not get much if any charge.

 

[10forty2]

I tested the rectifier under idle/rev and it maintianed 12.2 volts
so I orderd a new (aftermarket) rectifier
replaced, started the engine, and AGAIN no voltage raise.
I checke the yellow (stator) AC voltages and saw 30VAC+ when revving
what is up !!!!!

First place I'd check is for blown fuses. I'm not sure on the GTX, but on my Speedster there was a 30amp inline fuse in the charging circuit that was melted. Replaced it and the fuse holder. And although I don't have any experience with them, I've seen more than one recommendation to stick with OEM parts and not use aftermarket stuff for these watercraft.